Yeah, log splitters work pretty well, all things considered. May need to make some adapters to replace the wedge, though.

Great caution is advised, they are a bit short on safety features.

We used one to press together a pin and bushing set for my brother's "new" crawler (to replace the one he lost in a barn fire). Worked pretty good, although the track got sorta heavy by the time we got done.

The ball joint should be seated against the flange on the top. I've seen "professionally done" ones with the cup not pressed down flush, nor straight, at $200 a pop.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I'd rather press in 10 new ones than remove one old one. Still trying to get a couple out.

Building a new work bench just to withstand the sledge hammer.

Took my last one to a buddy's auto shop. Almost stumped both of us. Gradually got it. Pressed the new one in with a C-clamp type deal (air)

Don

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

I've posted this before, but it is worth repeating. The key to getting ball joints out is not pressure or hammering by themselves, as is mentioned above when a pressured joint was hit with a hammer. Both are required. The easiest way is to use a pry bar about 6 feet long wedged between the frame and the control arm, have someone stand on that bar, then strike the control arm with a small sledge. The shock will almost always break the joint loose with one or two hits.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13