My cure for starting a stubborn (read worn with marginal compression) 617 when I had one was a strong battery, synthetic oil, new glow plugs, and a can of either when it really didn't want to start.


Spray a little candy in the intake she will fire right up.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Having recently been a trucker based out of Fargo, ND, this thread brought back memories. I made the mistake of taking my restored '83 300D up there, so I wouldn't have to ride all the way from Florida with "those ppl" on the dog. I thought I would also like to have wheels while having my truck in for maintenance while in Fargo. I had a student who was attending Alexandria Tech's Truck Driving Program (60 miles east of Fergus Fall, MN, where she lived). Biggest mistake I made. Two winters were very hard on the "Avocado." Each winter I replaced all the glow plugs. But . . here's my two cents worth of lessons learned:

1. Don't buy the cheapest battery. Buy a true Interstate or Delco battery with the thick cases. Make sure it is rated for the deep cell (Marine type batteries), high amp service. My Florida mechanic (Pierre Hedary) put one of those new Auto Zone Platinum batteries in my car for a quick fix, and it died before the warranty did (9 months) in the Great White North. Sorry AutoZone, but the truth is the truth.

2. Make sure your AAA card is paid up.

3. Make sure you have heavy duty jumper cables (around $30 like previously mentioned). It is also good to have one of those jumper batts of sufficient juice in the trunk, also, which will recharge on the drive home by being plugged into the cigarette lighter.

4. Make sure you have a can of Ehter in the trunk. (The can says for Diesel and gas engines).

5. Carry 100 ft. of electric cord to plug in the car. It will take about 3.5 to 4 hrs to heat up a frozen motor sufficiently to start the car. And whenever possible, park next to electrical access. My student unfortunately parked in a generic parking lot to go to class, without access to electricity, and more often than not, had trouble starting the car up in the afternoon.

6. Use a low viscosity oil during the winter months (sorry, but I won't touch anything Rotella), as the higher numbers approach the texture of Vaseline at the ND winter temps, even in the big trucks. And, except where expressly prohibited, we routinely (more often than not), idle our trucks 24/7.

7. I have slept in the back seat of my 300D, with the engine running all night, without any problems (as long as the compressor for the air (which when set on temp detect, will always be on) isn't kicked on), and the heater going. I stayed nice and toasty with the heater running all night long, with one of the windows cracked. I think at the time, I considered it cheaper than putting up with the cold inconvenience of waiting for a tow truck, so I paid for the extra fuel without a *****. But, (very important), make sure you have no exhaust leaks coming into the car, as you could wake up dead, and with a hell of a headache. Hence, keep the window cracked a bit, just in case.

8. Always, and I mean "ALWAYS!!!!" use anti-gel in winter.

9. Also, carry a bottle of "911" in case you forgot Rule #8. This is an alcohol based starting fuel, poured directly into the fuel filter housing, and the tank, which will quickly thaw out, or anti-gel the fuel it becomes exposed to. But this is not a replacement for anti-gel, or Diesel #1 (which is 30% kerosene).

10. Also . . . make sure you have brand new glow plugs on your engine, and that they are snugged down. I found that with the new batt and glow plugs at optimum performance, it took, at the most, three relays terms to sufficiently heat up the cylinders to get the car started (although I'll admit to it being a hard start in -30). But, I also noticed, that by the third week of -30 conditions, one by one, my glow plugs died. I came to accept that as a fact of life in the Fargo/Fergus Falls area . . . . probably why I didn't see many of these cars up there.

And last, but not least . . . . for a second time . . . make sure your AAA subscription is up to date!!!! . . . LOL.

Torie P.
"Lady Trucker"



8.

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002

That engine does not have glow plugs, it's only starting aid is the starting fluid canister. Engines with intake heaters can explode, and glow plugs can be shattered. Some prechamber styles can also be popped loose from the head due to the violent explosion within them when starting fluid is used.
If you absolutely must use starting fluid, give a quick shot into the intake, and immediately crank the car. Do not let it glow, just crank it. This will minimize stresses on the prechambers and glow plugs but bad things can still happen.
A method I have seen suggested in other threads is to dampen a rag with some gasoline and place it over the intake, then crank the car. This produces a softer burn than the starting fluid and less likelihood of damage.

Once upon a time, some german speaking mercedes mechanics (Roxbury in New Jersey) told me to never use starting fluid in a benz diesel because it could snap a timing chain. What was said about always using anti-gel is correct, keep a large supply with you at all times. Get the longest extension cord you can for the block heater. I found when running in cold temps, the block heater made a lot of difference in ease of starting. Some of the battery jump start packs have 120 volt electric plug connectors which might work for plugging in a block heater....just a thought...

If it is a 123 or older it can also be pull started in a pinch.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

for new members

New Behr thermostat 80C March 5 last year. Slow to warm up, it maintains 80C but takes awhile to get there. Could it have a quick to open thermostat? I expected more from Behr? How long should it take to warm up?

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1999 Mercedes E300TD daily driver sold at 238K miles 106K miles were mine, rust worm got it :-(
2006 Mercedes CDI new daily driver! 56,000 miles May 2016 now 85,625 Apr 2018 and Apr 2019 101,000 miles Apr 2020 109,875. March 2024 135,250, Dec 2024 145,000 miles

An Hour with the block heater plugged into a generator, a hairdryer blowing into the intake, a quick shot of ether, a warm charged battery, 0W oil , all tested good glow plugs, big jumper cables and last but not least call AAA for a jump It is worth it if you only need it once a year. Cheers and good luck Dan

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It's always something simple
91 300D 603.960 (from japan) 194K
92 Toyota Diesel Landcruiser HDJ81-t 116K
02 Golf TDI new head courtesy of PO
87 300D
97 BMW 525 TDS Wagon 5spd
bunch of Onan and other diesel generators

Expensive Tow? That's what a AAA is for!!!

I had the same problem with my 300D in Fargo . . . but the real problem was
-30 degrees, not 0 degrees. There are a couple things you can do. First, make sure your battery is in optimal shape. Second, it sounds like you have a couple glow plugs that are dead. So, just replace them (all five). Also, are you using a thinner oil, or just the standard 15-40 Wt diesel oil?

I think once you check your battery, and replace, if necessary, and correct any defect with the glow plugs, you should have no problem starting.

Sometimes, when in Minnesota, I had to double bump the glow plugs, before trying to start. Try that first, see if it makes it easier. If double bumping the glow plugs doesn't work, you obviously need to replace glow plugs!!!!

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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002