I did a search and found various ideas on bleeding the clutch system, but I can't find the actual bleed screw on my 240D or any discussion about its location. I feel a little stupid for asking about it, but I just can't find it! I've bled brakes before, but only on automatics.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. It is located on the bell housing on the passanger side above midline of the bell housing. Ther eis also a bleed screw on the cylinder located at the clutch pedal.

The MBZ manual is as follows.

Bleeding by means of the Brake System

Bleeding of the fluid cioupling actuating system by means of the brake system is in principle the same as when a bleeding device is used - but with the difference that no special aids are needed. All that is needed is a piece of hose (transparent if possible) about 1 meter long. Bleeding is then carried out as follows:

1.

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63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9)
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC

Sorry I have fat fingers.

"1. Check brake fluid level in brake resevoir and, in necessary, top up to maximum level.

draw the brake fluid for fluid coupling (slave cyliner) from the resevoir.

2. attach hose to bleed screw of right front caliper and open bleed screw.

3. Have someone else cautiously depress the brake pedal until the hose has filled with brake fluid and there are no more air bubbles to be seen. Prevent fluid from running out of the hose by nipping it.

4. Attach free end of hose to the bleed screw on the extraction cylinder and open bleed screw.

5. By alternately depressing the brake pedal and closing the bleed screw of the brake caliper, releasing the brake pedal and opening the bleed screw a number of times, fill the coupling resevoir to the maximum level.

Note; It is recommended to top up the fluid level in thebrake fluid resevoir once during the procedure.

6. Close bleed screws on brake caliper and extraction cylinder and disconnect the hose.

7. Check the coupling actuating mechanism for the function and leaks by hifting into reverse gear with engine running.

8. Top up brake fluid in resevoir to maximum level."

In summary, what the manual is saying is to first empty the clutch hydraulic system completely. Then back fill the system from the bottom until the resevoir is filled. They suggest using the brake system as a means of doing this. I suppose you could also use a conainer elevated above the car a couple of feet, and use hydrostatic pressure to back fill the system.

Good look

henry

__________________
63 190d (sold)
69 220D (sold)
69 280SL (sold)
76 BMW 2002 (sold)
86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9)
87 300SDL (sold)
87 300SDL 135k
87 300TD 280k (sold)
95 E320W 211k
95 E320w 111k
05 C320 4matic
06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan)
2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC

Ok, here's another stupid question. What's the bell housing? I have the Haynes manual, and will probably follow their clutch slave cylinder bleeding method 1 since I have a power bleeder (it's the reverse flush method). I know there are other methods too, but there's no need to get into that, I'm just trying to find the slave cylinder and its bleed screw. BTW, your post seems to be incomplete.

Edit: Never mind. Your 2nd post came when I was typing this. Thanks for the procedure, though like I said I have a power bleeder which I'm sure will be easier to use than your procedure.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

Slave cylinder, and I heard it's hard to get the whole air bubble out when bleeding. The bellhousing is the rounded case around the transmission, and the slave is mounted on the passenger side near the top on mine.

Attached Thumbnails

 

240dnewbie, thanks a lot! Your picture helped a lot and I found the slave almost immediately. Before I read your post I didn't know what bell housing was, but if somebody had told me "the passenger side of the transmission" I would have known exactly where to look.

I have the Motive power bleeder and today was the first time I used it and it's awesome! Brake bleeding is actually kind of fun now. I didn't use the reverse flush method on the clutch system and instead I just bled it like the brakes... no bubbles and clean fluid and clutch still works great afterward.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

HGV gives a good explanation of proper bleeding, however, if you have the time, you can just bleed it like brakes, two man method, then let it set overnight. The remaining bubbles will work themselves up and into the reservoir.

Good luck,

Can someone help explain this to me in plain words? I need to bleed out my clutch system, but my main problem when reading this description is that I don't know what a few of the words referred to are.

I put Henry's post in blue and my questions in black.


"1. Check brake fluid level in brake resevoir and, in necessary, top up to maximum level.

draw the brake fluid for fluid coupling (slave cyliner) from the resevoir.

^^Is the above statement just a summary of what is about to follow?^^

2. attach hose to bleed screw of right front caliper and open bleed screw.

3. Have someone else cautiously depress the brake pedal until the hose has filled with brake fluid and there are no more air bubbles to be seen. Prevent fluid from running out of the hose by nipping it.

4. Attach free end of hose to the bleed screw on the extraction cylinder and open bleed screw.

What are they referring to by "extraction cylinder?" Is it just the clutch slave cyl?

5. By alternately depressing the brake pedal and closing the bleed screw of the brake caliper, releasing the brake pedal and opening the bleed screw a number of times, fill the coupling resevoir to the maximum level.

Note; It is recommended to top up the fluid level in thebrake fluid resevoir once during the procedure.

Again, this is confusing because I don't know what the coupling reservoir is. Is it just a container to drain fluid into, is it the slave cyl etc?

6. Close bleed screws on brake caliper and extraction cylinder and disconnect the hose.

(Same confusion continues - don't know what extraction cylinder is)

7. Check the coupling actuating mechanism for the function and leaks by shifting into reverse gear with engine running.

8. Top up brake fluid in resevoir to maximum level."

In summary, what the manual is saying is to first empty the clutch hydraulic system completely.

Where do you empty it into?

Then back fill the system from the bottom until the resevoir is filled.

Is the fluid sucked back in by means of the break hydraulic system by opening up the bleeder on the caliper, releasing the brakes, closing nipple, pressing breaks, etc....?

They suggest using the brake system as a means of doing this. I suppose you could also use a conainer elevated above the car a couple of feet, and use hydrostatic pressure to back fill the system.

Ok, so if you read all this you probably get the idea that basically I need to know the meaning of a couple words and that would probably clear up a lot of things. Any other advice would be appreciated as well.

Thanks

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Just spend $45 on a cheap pressure bleader and make your life a lot easier. Pressurize system, open bleed screw and you're done.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

I would consider that. How would I do this procedure using a pressure bleeder? Ie: hook what up where and do what till when?

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You can buy one here: http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Bleeder-European-PBE100/dp/B000U08W96/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1228162616&sr=8-1 (Looks like they've gone up about $5).

You screw the cap onto your brake resevior, fill the thing up with fluid, pressurize it, then unscrew your brake caliper bleed screws, or slave cylinder bleed screw, and let the old fluid run out until the new fluid appears. Its a very handy tool.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

Interesting. When I changed the slave cylinder on my 240D, I just worked the clutch pedal about 50 times and the system self-bled.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

the easiest way I have found is the pressure bleed. I made one from a garden sprayer and a PNP brake res cap. The instructions are on this forum. with pressure on I pumped the clutch pedal 10-20 times and closed the bleed screw. I tried the back flow method first but it never worked because when I cracked open the bleed screw on the slave the pressure just leaked out the threads of the bleed screw.

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1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
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2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Same with mine Lutz.
I tried to reverse bleed with the front brake and air leaked in as soon as the slave bleeder was cracked enough to let the fluid in.


A mighty vac on the slave cylinder worked best for me.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"