Wow that is quite cool, I tune my talon to stay under 1600*F but anything under 1650*F is fine.

I thought there were full pillar molded cups somewhere? I think that mount looks cheap.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

Maybe the setpoint was 1650F (900C) and popular gauges read to 1200C. Seems like so long ago that there were 3 spools on the grille instead of a 3 pointed star.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL
91 Galant VR4 w/ 16g (sold)

Well if you are refering to your VR4 then no doubt it was 1600*F as the VR4 and my Talon have the same exact model powerplant, a 6 bolt Mitsubishi 4G63 2.0L motor.

If I sell this one odds are it won't be replaced with a Star but by a bulls horns (Ram), I want a CTD.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

Cool

Maybe 1200° is cool for a gas engine, but I've always been told to never exceed that number on a diesel. I accidentally did once (first diesel and I didn't know any better, and it turned out it had been monkeyed with), and it cost me an engine.

Re: the gauge pods, there are molded gauge pod sets designed to replace the trim piece on the A-pillar, but I don't know of one that's made to fit a 123. Everything out there that exists is a custom-design for each truck. Unfortunately, they don't offer it on '80 - '86 Ford trucks, or I'd have one on my rig already...

There are these, but I don't think they'd integrate with the 123's A-pillar very well...they'd physically fit (unlike the full replacement pieces, this is designed to fit over the existing trim), but it might actually look more hokey than the mounting cups I already posted. And I'm sure that the bracket with the holes would just plain look bad.

Yes I believe the number for diesels is 1250° however to work some gauge error in they say 1200° just to be a little on the safe side.

I could have sworn that somebody does make a molded gauge mount for our cars but maybe I'm wrong. Another location I heard of was to replace the ash tray with something and mount them there, but then again that would take effort to look down at it while driving which wouldn't be that great.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

Warden,
I agree that a 123 basically has no space for extra gauges. You could loose the ashtray and install boost/egt gauges in a custom panel there, or try the A-pillar mount or try these guys www.dynotune.org They make boost/egt digital gauges in a keyfob size square unit. Seems like it would be perfect for mounting with double sided tape right under the factory gauge cluster http://www.dynotune.org/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=20

RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

If the rubber hose between the compressor housing and the boost control servo leaks, the wastegate will stay closed. It also stays closed if someone cuts the line to "disconnect" the turbo (don't ask, it WASN'T ME) -- blew that truck up. No big deal, Mommy bought him a new one.....

I would guess this is fairly uncommon, but if you don't have a guage and watch it, a bleed-off or a setup like the Volvo has is a necessity. I'd certainly rather have low power than melted piston crowns.

The VE pump in the Volvo has a hourglass shaped plunger attatched to the ALDA -- if the boost pressure goes too high, the fuel is reduced proportionately. There is also a blow-off vavle on the manifold, set for 11-12 psi.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Driving style has a lot to do with it. If you don't drive flat out for extended periods (I rarely floored the SDs), there's no opportunity to exceed the boost limits of the engine regardless of the effectiveness of the wastegate. Baby it over hills and you'll be safe.

What's it like when the overboost protection solenoid closes under hard acceleration? I've experienced boost cut in gassers. There's enough of a cut to plant your face in the windshield. Is the MB system anything like that?

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

I've never hit fuel cut on my Talon yet but from what I hear it is like hitting a brick wall as it cuts everything. I have things modded around it such that I should never hit it either, I've ran 20psi while it is 10* outside so I don't think I'll hit it anytime soon.

When our MBs hit this point it is a different theory, with the DSMs they cut all the fuel off and immediately however our MBs will limit the boost getting through. I hear it makes the motor almost feel like it is missing on a cylinder or just behave very choppy in a certain range (where the boost is the highest) on the motor, no where as dramatic as a DSM fuel cut but still quite noticeable.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k