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#1
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Help me fix this leak (brake fluid related) PICS INSIDE
Hey,
Just wondering how I can fix this little leak. It is not coming out alot but it has built up for some time now. I did order the two grommets and I was wondering if I can just pull the canister off and just attach the new grommets in. Then slide the canister back on ?? As you can see, it is leaking slowly right from the bottom... Let me know how you would handle this procedure..... Thank You and here are the pics....... ![]() ![]()
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Audi TT |
#2
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The fix is about as simple as you described, but...
You must be very careful when doing this. First, place a bunch of rags under the cylinder, then suck out with a turkey baster or something like it the fluid. Next, carefully pry-up around where the grommets are and it should pop free, along with some fluid leakage which the rags will catch. Please be sure to fully clean out the plastic reservoir tank and perhaps do so with brake parts cleaner once you get it off. Now, remove the grommets and clean the holes with a lint free rag. Then, place in new grommets and then put the clean plastic reservoir on and fill it with fluid. Look for leaks now, and then I would bleed the brakes to flush out any junk that got in. If in a pinch you could get away with not bleeding them, but remember that they are brakes and are a safety thing if you know what I mean. Good luck, Adam |
#3
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anybody have a "HOW-TO" brake bleed ?
thanks
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Audi TT |
#4
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Please refer to the thread that I attached. I don't know the guys name who made this website, but he has helped many. It's the Merecdes manual for our 123 cars and you can find the factory method for brake bleeding there.
Here it is: http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/123-cd-index.html |
#5
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thank you
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Audi TT |
#6
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optional bleed.
Hello kamil
adamb did a good R&R DIY. I would not bleed the system on my personal car for this repair. If you where opening a line; that would be different. You are replacing the atmospheric reservoir, if you do not disturb the pedal, you will not suck air into the system.
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#7
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just a side note -
it was talked about, but no reason given, and i dont want to insult anyones know how here - just trying to help. rags are needed under the work area to stop the brake fluid from hitting any painted surface. the brake fluid is about as mean as aircraft paint stripper - look out. i too would not bleed the brakes here as long as you did not introduce air. easy fix Jake ps, i have a question "good R&R DIY" - what does that mean, R&R? - restore and repair? |
#8
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The standard answer is
Hello BF_JC230
The standard answer is Remove and Replace Some people use Repair and Replace Restore and Repair Rip out and Replace depending on where they are from and who trained them. Have a great day. |
#9
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You need to take the fillter cap off and use something through the hole to push the tank back on -- otherwise, you run a very good chance of cracking it around the fittings on the bottom.
YOu may find it cracked already. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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