Howdy,


I've been busy today. I replaced the clutch slave cylinder, front calipers, brake master cylinder, front rotors, pads all the way around, and all brake lines. Everything went pretty well, but the brake resivoir leaked when I was using my pressure bleeder. Now I have an Exxon Valdez size spot of DOT-4 in my driveway.

Had a couple of questions:

(1) The FAG clutch slave cylinder I took out had busted the seal on the bottom (and that was an exercize in putting your hand into tight places). This had obviously been replaced before, but I wonder if something is misadjusted to make the piston and pushrod pop out the end??? I put in a Febi which looked like a much better unit.

(2) I could not no matter how hard I tried get the rear brake disks off. I didn't have the parking brake on, but suspect that the parking brake shoes are hanging up. Any thoughts on how to get them off? How do you release the parking brake shoes if that is what it is?

Thanks much.

Sholin

p.s. The hydraulic problems I ran into were due to VERY BAD maintenance by the previous owner. If you haven't bled your brakes/clutch in a while you should or you'll get to replace all this stuff too.

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What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.

73MB,

Were you able to get the rear rotors loose from the axle shaft end? Inside the rear rotor there is a star wheel which when turned will release the parking brake shoes. This star wheel is accessable thru hole in the rotor. You have to turn the rotor to see the start wheel. You should grind off the lip of the rotors before you reinstall them.

If the star wheel is rusted and cannot be turned, you will have a hard time getting the rotors off. If you are going to replace the rotors, you can use the big hammer method and break the rotors. They are cast iron and they break easily. That is the method I used more than once.

P E H

The rear rotors can sometimes be stubborn. Even on my unrusted California cars I've had to use some persuasion to get them off. Penetrating oil, a torch, and like PEH said, a couple of good whacks with a big hammer should get them off. Be a bit careful with the penetrating oil. You don't want it on the calipers or the bearings (don't worry about the rotor, you're replacing that anyway.)

By the way, on the 123 cars there is a single phillips head screw that holds the rear rotor in place. I assume if your car has that you've removed it.

__________________
LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

Thanks much for the advice. I didn't mention that this is on my 190D 2.2 (W201). I'll take another crack at it next weekend. The old rotors are toast, but I can run a week or two hopefully without ruining the new pads.

BTW, I have to take it all apart again anyway 'cause I FORGOT THE STINK'N PAD PASTE. SSSSQQUUEEEEEKKKK.

Oh well, I guess that's how you learn.

__________________
What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.

Hello 73MB280SEL
You may have to get serious force involved, oxy gas torch + 20LB sledge hammer.
The last couple of MB I had to replace rotors on; required extreme effort to remove the corroded rotors, park brakes and hardware where a total loss also.
The other option is to rent a puller to get it off.
Have a great day.

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MB73,

Maybe you didn't understand my post, I meant actually hit the old rotor with the hammer until it fractures. Its not difficult because the rotor is relatively thin cast iron.

This procedure will do the least damage to other parts of the braking and axle systems.

P E H

PEH,

Yeah, I caught your drift. I might be heading that way, but I looked at the CD-ROM manual a bit more and found how to release the parking brake. Although the disk would rotate freely, I suspect that the parking brake is jamming the rotor.

Then again, the line where the rotor seats on the hub is pretty darn rusted. I tried a penetrant, but it had no effect.

If I do crack the rotors off, what do you think about grinding two break lines in the disk part (down to the hub flange) before I apply the sledge?

I have all the parts to rebuild the rotor and parking brake so I'm not concerned about damaging them.

Thanks much,

Sholin

__________________
What else, '73 MB 280 SEL (Lt Blue)
Daily driver: '84 190D 2.2 5 spd.

73MB,

It wouldn't hurt to grind a break line.

If your rotor is like mine was, the parking brake shoes get caught in the lip on the inside edge of the drum in the center of the rotor. If you are able to back off the star wheel enough, the rotor should come off. But sometime the adjustment screw is rusted tight. I put Never Sieze on the adjustment screws when I reassemble them.

You will find it is difficult to install the springs on the brake shoes. You just have to persevere to get them on. Before you take the old parts off, make a note of how they are installed.

P E H