There is usually a second rubber boot under the shifter boot that acts as a seal.

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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)

Hmmm??? Never saw that on any of the cars I tore apart (factory 4 speeds)?

Just the main boot you see. It fits just like the auto shifter, should be a plastic cage that holds it into the wood panel.

Sorry Randy, I could've told you about the mount nut being shrouded by the flexdisk, but then I did all the tranny install before mounting the drivelines when doing ANY tranny work. Hope it didn't cause too much pain.

BTW, took me a few days to completely bleed the system even after power bleeding.

Looks like I'll pull my tranny (for the millionth time) next week and retro the old style like yours in and drive it for a few weeks just to see how it shifts comparitively. Will pull the PP/clutch and flywheel and look for a witness mark (yet again). I'll take a lupe with me this time!

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

Yeah, I've been into 4 of these manuals now and never seen a 2nd boot either. Maybe it's a post-123 thang.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Randy, Once in a while a great thread comes along and gives us so much. Thanks for taking the time to teach us from your experience. I am thinking of doing this conversion in the future and this thread will be a big help. Keep up the good work and we hope to hear from you and your completed project real soon!

Thanks,
Adiel

Adiel,
Thanx for the kudos. Like you, I contemplated this conversion for a long time. I might have been more pro-active and made the 'shift' sooner had all the information been in one place; my goal in generating this thread.

Thanks again,
Randy

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I'm flummoxed.

I've tried every way I know how, including the most bizarre way I've ever seen that's specified in the Chilton's manual (connecting a hose from the wheel bleeder to the clutch slave cylinder), to bleed the clutch.

I'm beginning to think that there's something wrong with the brand new master cylinder that I installed.

Suggestions?

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Tell us what is happening.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Randy

I use that clear hose from the r/f brake slave to the clutch slave and last time I did it I used small hose clamps. Have done it w/o the clamps but the extra time it takes to use clamps means you can really pump the snot outa the brakes and the hose does not come off. Just pump lots, close the fittings, got clutch? No ?pump more. Good thread Thanks

Steve

I can't get the clutch bled.

I've tried pressure bleeding from the top (good flow of fluid through the lines), the pump and pray method - ya know, the up/down routine with someone on the pedal and me under the car opening and shutting the bleeder and the the FSM(?) thing of running a line to the slave from the rt front wheel.

All this has resulted in the same outcome: it feels like you're puushing on air and nothing moves.

New master and slave, all lines cleaned out and new fluid too.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I just changed my master and was having a hard time getting fluid through the system. It turns out the bleed port on the slave was clogged/plugged. Even with it cleared nothing happened, so I forced it. Usually I back bleed clutches but this time I forward bled it, with a little help from my compressor. That worked like a charm

__________________
5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)

The master, slave, pressure plate and disk are all new components and I'm getting good flow from the top down. I'll try the wheel cylinder method again this evening when I have some help.

Thanks all!

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I replaced a clutch master cylinder this morning, what a bugger, even after taking the seat out. For bleeding the system I used my clear hose with the hose clamps, worked fine. I just hook up the hose, open both fittings, pump like stink, close fittings, test clutch, done. You dont need to do it like you would bleeding brakes, just pump (40 or 50 times) leaving both nipples open.

Steve

Dude,
You're killing me. Where didja hook the hose?

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

The hose goes between the r/f brake slave and the clutch slave

We are talking about bleeding the clutch, right?

I used to bleed to slave cylinders on a few Japanese cars that I had by pushing the slave cylinder into the housing a bunch of times with a screw driver or whatever else that would fit the hole. That way forces the fluid and any air back into the reservoir. It's a backward way to go about it but it always worked for me. I don't know if this idea would work on a M-B but it may be worth a try.
I just started to follow this thread and it's great.
Thanks Randy for taking the time to share it with all of us.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012