Randy, did you have to use the adapter plate that goes with the manual transmission or could you have used the one from the auto?

Thanks,
Adiel

For the newer 4 speed (all-alum, in pics above on the left), you use the stock adapter that was used with the auto trans. If you have the older style tranny with the cast-iron center section, you'll need the adapter plate from the donor vehicle.

A few have asked for the following advice on the tranny swap, so here's a few tips (I'm sure Randy will agree):

I'd recommend replacing the front seal (have to remove the release bearing guide and will need the thin paper gasket for that too), the rear seal (will need a new nut) and the shifter seals while it's out and on the bench.

Also, it helps to bevel the end of the pilot shaft a little more while out and polish it a bit (greatly helps installation.)

Clean and re-paint the tranny while it's out too and make sure the breather is not broken and not plugged up.

Degrease/pressure wash the undercarriage while the tranny is out and use a good undercoat on it (3m rubberized - the $10/can stuff or Duracoat truck bed lining.)

Might as well also replace the center support bearing while everything's apart, that way you don't need to worry about it for another 100k or so.

If you're feeling REALLY energetic, might as well replace the differential seal too while the rear line can easily be removed. You'll need a new nut there too and a deep 30 or 32mm 12 point socket (don't remember which.)

Also, it's much easier to get to the side of the engine with the tranny out, so installing a block heater if it doesn't have one would be a good idea. Fixing any oil leaks you can see and get to would be good too. The oil filter stand gasket is "easier" with the tranny out and then doing the cooler lines will be "easier" with the stand out.

Sheesh...., did I do all that??? No wonder grimgaunt says I have "shipwrights disease"?????

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

The adapter to the 722.315 automatic and the adapter to the cast iron tranny are the same...it's back a couple of pages in this thread.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I had 3-4 hours to available Saturday afternoon to work on the wagon but was STILL unsuccessful in my efforts to get the clutch working.

I've come to the conclusion that something must be causing the throwout yoke to bind and not move freely. This evening I'll pull the slave cylinder and so see if I can get the yoke to move.

If that's unsuccessful, I'll be removing the tranny.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Funny, that's the same auto I had, but the cast iron tranny has an alignment shoulder around the circumference of the bell housing and the alum tranny doesn't. No way my cast iron tranny would fit into the stock auto trans adapter?

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

I finally figured out what was wrong with the clutch on this wagon. I somehow managed to assemble the clutch with the disk facing the WRONG way. Doh! Basically, the vibration damper on the disk was getting jammed into the flywheel bolts and wasn't allowing any of the components to move properly.

It was a stupid mistake because I know which direction that piece is supposed to face.

Anyway last night, I decided that the one thing left to do was pull the transmission and find out what was binding up....so I did. It took all of 40 minutes to get to the point where I determined that the disk was in wrong.

Interestingly, when the front driveshaft is shortened to the length I made it, you only need to pull the front shaft loose from the flex disk, loosen the spud nut and you can pull out the front shaft without needing to remove the entire driveshaft. BTW-Make sure you have witness marks on both halves so that you can properly reassemble the shaft!!

After correctly reasembling the clutch, I stabbed the tranny back on, stuck in 3 provisional bolts on the bellhousing, mated everything up and tightened the bolts.

Next, I hooked a line from my pressure bleeder to the bleeder bolt on the clutch slave cylinder, opened the bolt slightly and pressurized the bleeder. It took all of 5 minutes to completely purge the clutch hydraulics of air using the pressure bleeder. I tested the clutch for action and it now appears to be functioning correctly. ThankGawd.

More later.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Yippeeeeeeeee!!!

I'm sure you'll come back in a couple days and let us know how it drives.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Well, sorta. At approximately 11:20pm CDT, April 6, 2004 Marlene the wonder wagon was once again coaxed into life and moved under her own power; her OM617.952 now connected to the drivetrain via friction clutch and not a fluid coupling.

The donor gear box is solid and shifts great. I was quite concerned about this as the car it came from had the appearance of being "flogged round the fleet until dead."

Last night's test run of 15 miles validates that the car runs out well with a Handgetriebe but she still has the same off-idle sluggishness that I was thinking would go away with the addition of the manual tranny. Obviously, a drip timing session is somewhere in my future.

On the down side, I seem to have a lot of new vibrations and rattles; I do know that my front motor mounts are getting mealy and have a set in stock but there are some other vibes that make me think either the exhaust pipe or some other component is getting in contact with the chassis. I plan to put a few miles on her, replace those front mounts and then go after the buzzies.

One other unanticipated issue is that, without 200+ lbs of automatic transmission in her gut, the front end now sits about 2" higher. Monster Wagon any one?

Thanks to all on the Forum for your support and input!

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Congrats Randy! Can we see some pictures of the final product please?

Adiel

When do you plan to hit the rollers?

I'm curious as to how the RPM's are at various speeds, say at 55 65, 75, etc. Are they lower or higher than what they were with the auto tranny? This is something I want to keep in mind when the day comes whether to rebuild my auto tranny or replace it with a manual.

__________________
DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

For me, they are about the same with auto , then with the 4speed. 3k rpm at 65.

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

Gentleman,
Have you noticed a fuel MPG increase with the manual conversion? How much are you getting now compared to before?
Thanks,
Adam

Cannot tell anything definitive on changes in economy....partly because the speedo/odometer are out of whack since the final drive ratio in the wagon is lower 3.07:1 (numerically) than the donor car. Consequently, my speed and miles indicated is at least 10% high. Additionally, I have a performance issue I'm dealing with as well ( Near-dead miss at idle).

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

R Leo,
I just wanted to say "Thanks" to you and the others for outlining and documenting your conversion. You have possibly motivated me to do that, as I'm toyiong with either a 4 speed manual or auto tranny to put in my 240 which I'm putting a 5 cyl turbo in.
Thanks again,
Adam Bush