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  #1  
Old 03-28-2015, 08:40 PM
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Did you remember to plug the vac line going to the auto tranny? I forgot to do that on my 190D 5 speed swap and it wouldn't shut off with key. Plugged it and all good. Nice Job!
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biopete View Post
Did you remember to plug the vac line going to the auto tranny? I forgot to do that on my 190D 5 speed swap and it wouldn't shut off with key. Plugged it and all good. Nice Job!
Thanks Pete! I did plug the vac line going to the transmission. It stopped "dieseling" on its own. Not sure why it did that, seems to be fine now.

The hissing is definitely coming from the brake rod/booster area. I really beat on it trying to get the clutch bled with the caliper method...

It only hisses when I put moderate to heavy pressure on the brake pedal, but the pedal stays firm.

I wonder if I blew out the booster seals, hope not...
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2015, 11:33 PM
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This thread may be relevant to your shifting issue:

4 Speed Getrag Question

Also, have you seen the tranny run before? Could it just be a blown synchro or something?
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Old 03-31-2015, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
This thread may be relevant to your shifting issue:

4 Speed Getrag Question

Also, have you seen the tranny run before? Could it just be a blown synchro or something?
Thanks for the link! Yes, I think thats my problem with the grinding in reverse... The Pilot bearing was the most difficult part of the swap for me by far... I ruined the first one trying to get it in the crank (made it Italy on it). I got a new one from NAPA that was made in the Japan. It fit better but was still a VERY tight fit. Its definitely possible that I didnt get it in perfectly straight. For now, I will just start it already in reverse if I need to back up, and avoid situations where I need to back up while running.

Never saw the trans run. I pulled it from a 240d that had a rod sticking through the block, but only 112k miles on it.

The 2nd gear downshift grind was just me being rusty with a stick shift. Shes shifting smooth in all forward gears. I put Mobil 1 ATF in the case.

She tachs the same rpms on the highway as the auto did which makes sense as they both have 1:1 4th gear ratios. Hmm now to look for a 2.88 rear diff.
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'82 300TD
'84 300D OM617
Auto to 4spd Manual Swap 716.210
'85 300SD 2.88 Diff (Direct Swap)
W140 HD Rear Springs w/ bilstein shocks (SLS Delete)
'83 300SD Big Brake Booster Swap
Late model 240D Manual HVAC Swap
W124 Outside Temp Gauge
Aftermarket Keyless Entry

'84 300D RIP
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  #5  
Old 05-15-2015, 01:08 AM
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Update!

Finally got around to pulling the trans again. She was making a lot more scraping and grinding noises.

Found that the wedged in pilot bearing had flung its grease as was probably close to seizing.

After cutting it out with my dremel, I used my cylindrical grinder attachment and went around the crank hole about twenty or so times using steady pressure.

New pilot bearing tapped right in like it should have to begin with.

Trans input shaft slipped right in and trans to engine was flush with only a little wiggling.

Result:

No more grinding reverse! No more grinding 2nd or any other gear!
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'82 300TD
'84 300D OM617
Auto to 4spd Manual Swap 716.210
'85 300SD 2.88 Diff (Direct Swap)
W140 HD Rear Springs w/ bilstein shocks (SLS Delete)
'83 300SD Big Brake Booster Swap
Late model 240D Manual HVAC Swap
W124 Outside Temp Gauge
Aftermarket Keyless Entry

'84 300D RIP
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  #6  
Old 05-15-2015, 05:23 AM
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Fantastic

Good to see this issue resolved.

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  #7  
Old 08-12-2016, 11:55 AM
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617 Flywheels are definitely not all balanced neutral. You were lucky.
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