Regarding the ticking sound.

A leaking exaust manifold is usually temperature dependent. Expect it to be louder when it's cold and quiet down some as the metal warms up. If there is a piece of gasket missing, it will always leak.

A broken stud does not guarentee a leak. Sometimes cars don't even have bolts in the first and last holes. Some chrysler 318's just had pins in the end holes.

There is just so much a mechanic can do. If you need a miracle, find an independant muffler shop. You need an old guy that has been making miracles happen since dirt.

Some tricks he might use:

Weld a nut over the broken stud. Stick a nut over the stud, and weld the stud inside the nut. I have done this even when the stud is broken off slightly below the surface of the head.

forget the propane torch. You need a lot of heat, fast. You have to get the metal around the broken stud hot, really hot, like soft without heating up the whole head. then work quickly, carefully, skillfully to work the stud loose.

Whack on the stud with a hammer and punch. This works well if the area around it is really hot. This tends to break the bond between the two different metals. This technique is even better before you break the stud off.

Drill out the offending stud with a left handed drill bit. Sometimes you get lucky and the bit jams and jerks the stud out like magic. Or use a stud remover. It screws into the hole you drilled and jams. it's a left hand thread so as you screw the tool in you are putting preasure to screw the stud out. BTW I have no idea where to find a left handed drill bit. I have been in shops that had them.

Remove the manifold and put it back without a gasket. Smear Henry's roofing tar on the manifold surface before putting it back together. Forget any of the stuff that is made for sealing manifolds or exaust pipes. I did use some tar from a muffler supplier on occasion, but is was still roofing tar, just more expensive. A quart of Henry's lasted for a long time even with every day use. You might get lucky even if you don't get the stud out. BTW if you don't find Henry's, other brands will do. It also works gread for sealing wounds on trees. I use it to protect the wound after pruning or grafting branches. Some people even use it for fixing leaky roofs.

Any machinist can drill out the stud with the head on the bench. If you were pulling the head anyway don't even sweat trying to get it out, let the machinist do it.

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69 220D not running
79 240D parts car
80 240D Beater runs everyday
81 300TD temp disabled cooling problem
82 300SD sweet

Does it take about 10 hour to remove the head only or to remove and installation?

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

Full Remove & Reinstall is 10 hours.

I measured the depth with tire depth gauge.

Even if I remove the exhaust manifold, I will have nothing to grab.

a = 15/ 30 inch
b= 22/30 inch

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

It looks like someone is going to have to drill. It may be possible to drill it on the car. I know you said there isn't enough room, but if there is room to get a right angle drill in there you might be OK.

To get a straight hole, you can make a fixture. Use a piece of flat steel about 3/8 to 3/4 thick and set it up to the exaust manifild. Just don't break any more studs taking the manifold off. It needs to cover at least the the hole where the broken stud is and one hole on each side. Drill holes for bolts to pass through the manifold holes and through the flat steel. There must be as little play as possible. the bolts must be snug in all the holes. The middle hole must be drilled carefully in the center of the hole that the broken stud was behind.

You will need a drill bushing. get one from a industrial suplly house like Kaman Bearing, or is it Kaman engineering products now? I would drill a smaller hole in the center of the broken stud. To do that, chose a drill bushing for the drill bit you are going to use. Drill a hole in the fixture you made. The diameter of that hole is determined by the outside diameter of the drill bushing. Then press it in place with a hydraulic press. In other words whack it down with a hammer. It must be straight or you are screwed. The center of the hole must match with the center of the broken stud after the fixture is in place, or you are screwed.

Then bolt the fixture in place on the head and with a drill with a right angle adapter, if you need it, carefully drill a hole into the center of the broken stud. If the bit snaps off, you are - - - well you get the picture. Then you can use a stud extractor. screw it in and if you're lucky the reduced preasure caused by drilling the hole in the middle of the stud will allow the stud to back out. If you break off the stud extractor - - - you know. You can redrill the hole until you have a hole that has taken out the body of the stud and left the threads. If you manage that, pat yourself on the back, and tell yourself you're good.

10 hours to R&R the head? At least you get a chance to evaluate the valves and install a new head gasket and timing chain. Then you can check the cylinders for wear.

How about trying to pull the manifold and sticking it back in place with no gasket and using the roofing tar? It could work. It has worked on gas engines. Do diesels run a lot hotter?

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69 220D not running
79 240D parts car
80 240D Beater runs everyday
81 300TD temp disabled cooling problem
82 300SD sweet