EGR blocking plate kit - Page 11 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Palangi · #**151** 04-09-2005, 10:16 AM

It sounds like the switch could be an air conditioner cutout. I think MikeMover mentioned such a thing.

Johnhef · #**152** 04-09-2005, 07:12 PM

The federal 85 models had only an almost 1" by 0.5" small thin black box with a microswitch on it to replace the function of the vacuum valves. I never knew if it controlled anything more than the transmission though.

ck42 · #**153** 04-09-2005, 10:47 PM

At least for the '85 models like mine, I know there is a A/C cutout switch on top of the valve cover.

dhbecker · #**154** 04-14-2005, 10:00 PM

Brian, I believe I have fashioned a permanent solution to the exhaust port problem that will work better than the copper disc. With the assistance of a metals artist colleague, I cut the stainless steel connecting tube at one end with a Fordem flexshaft high speed cutting disc (a hacksaw being too crude for such thin metal), leaving about 1/4" of tubing, and then sanded the tube edge to perfectly flat. I then cut a 1 1/4" square of stainless 16 ga. steel to cap the end of the tubing. After careful cleaning and application of flux, we soldered the cap on with silver solder, which has a melting point of approx. 1200 degrees, and is an extremely strong joining of stainless steel. Its a bit tricky with the torch, heating from below because of the thin tubing, and moving it around to get the solder to flow evenly. After polishing, the piece looks very professional, and its too bad it will be hard to see after installing on my 240D engine. So this will not require the gasket maker stuff supplied in your kit, as it is the same close tolerance capping with the clamp as if the valve were still installed. I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone out there has experience or access to a metals arts workshop.

Brian Carlton · #**155** 04-14-2005, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhbecker

Brian, I believe I have fashioned a permanent solution to the exhaust port problem that will work better than the copper disc. With the assistance of a metals artist colleague, I cut the stainless steel connecting tube at one end with a Fordem flexshaft high speed cutting disc (a hacksaw being too crude for such thin metal), leaving about 1/4" of tubing, and then sanded the tube edge to perfectly flat. I then cut a 1 1/4" square of stainless 16 ga. steel to cap the end of the tubing. After careful cleaning and application of flux, we soldered the cap on with silver solder, which has a melting point of approx. 1200 degrees, and is an extremely strong joining of stainless steel. Its a bit tricky with the torch, heating from below because of the thin tubing, and moving it around to get the solder to flow evenly. After polishing, the piece looks very professional, and its too bad it will be hard to see after installing on my 240D engine. So this will not require the gasket maker stuff supplied in your kit, as it is the same close tolerance capping with the clamp as if the valve were still installed. I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone out there has experience or access to a metals arts workshop.

David, that is a perfect solution. The only drawback is that it's not readily marketable for everyone on the forum. Most folks wouldn't have acess to a proper torch and the skills necessary to perform that operation. I did have a think about it, however. My original thought was to braze the plate in place, but, the silver solder is probably a better and less risky choice.

Put up a photo for all of us to ogle.

guage · #**156** 04-14-2005, 11:05 PM

So I'm going to try this blocking plate kit. I also have my exhaust manifolds off to replace the flex coupling.
If I also pull out both vacuum transducers, it's ok not to have vacuum to the air recirculating valve? like the pic in post #53

Also just above the air recirculating valve is a copper colored bell shaped item
that has a larger hose going into the bottom of the rec valve, this bell shaped item then has a rod coming out of it that goes to the lower part of my exhaust (waste gate? ) can I also remove these items to clean this area up, since there is no vacuum going to it.

I try'd to post pics but it keeps say'n file is to big.

gsxr · #**157** 04-15-2005, 10:09 AM

Gauge, you can remove the vacuum lines to the EGR and also the ARV, neither needs to function anymore. You can NOT remove the pressure line to the wastegate (the can with the rod coming out)!!!! There are other threads on this topic, use the search feature.

dhbecker · #**158** 04-15-2005, 12:52 PM

Brian, I easily installed the part, and yes I figured not too many people out there would have access to the expertise for silver soldering stainless steel. It does have to be heated red hot, and even after careful cleaning & fluxing, I had to repeat the operation several times to get an even flow of solder around the entire joint. I thought putting a picture up would be a good idea, but at this point I am still digital camera/posting on the internet challenged.

guage · #**159** 04-15-2005, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Gauge, you can remove the vacuum lines to the EGR and also the ARV, neither needs to function anymore. You can NOT remove the pressure line to the wastegate (the can with the rod coming out)!!!! There are other threads on this topic, use the search feature.

gsxr
ok, thanks that is what I needed to know

dhbecker · #**160** 04-17-2005, 11:40 AM

With the egr valve & vacumn line out on my 240D engine, there remains another vacumn line running from (according to the vacumn diagram posted on this forum) the "electric switchover valve" to the "thermo vacumn valve" on the engine. Is this line now useless and can be removed? What about the line running from the "thermo vacumn valve" on the engine to the black box on the valve cover? Are these lines solely to do with the egr valve? I'd appreciate any advice!

ck42 · #**161** 04-17-2005, 02:14 PM

I don't want to confuse matters here with the current discussion, but I'm also curious as to what *stuff* I can now remove on my SD.

btw...just got mine installed (finally!!!!) and am waiting to finish the 24hr waiting period. As a small bonus, after removing the accordian pipe, I finally figured out why I'm occasionally having to add small amounts to water to the system. Right underneath where the pipe was, there are some large diameter hoses about 3-4 inches long and I can see weepage coming from one of them. I'd certainly rather see this than find out that the water was being burned due to a blown head gasket

Chris
'85 300SD

dannym · #**162** 04-17-2005, 04:32 PM

Hey,
Put the kit in yesterday, works great. I was a little worried because I overtightened the disc clamp but I put so much sealant on it nothing is going to get by.

danny

Brian Carlton · #**163** 04-17-2005, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ck42

btw...just got mine installed (finally!!!!) and am waiting to finish the 24hr waiting period.

I can't believe it. You waited nearly one year to install that kit???

I'd be happy to help you with eliminating the extra hoses, but the '85 is a different animal and I don't want to take a stab in the dark with it.

Any diagrams available?

ck42 · #**164** 04-17-2005, 07:58 PM

Brian

Has it been a year!??!!!

well...better late than never

I'll see if I can get the windows box fired up and pull some diagrams from the CDs.
I'd love to get rid of an unecessary crap under the hood. The EGR was a GREAT start!

Fired up the engine and doesn't look like the exhaust is leaking. I did a pretty nifty job of forming that copper disk to fit perfectly..if I do say so myself.

correction on the leaking hose(s). Looked again and there's just a single large diameter hose under there....and it's weeping.

Chris
'85 300SD

Hit Man X · #**165** 04-17-2005, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsp

2. On my 1984 300D-T California (the system is different on it; see attached diagram), I did something similar: removed all lines from the egr and arv, including the "vacuum converter" (#84) on the passenger side wall of the engine compartment, just back of the headlights, and going all the way to the vacuum junctions at the driver's side of the engine compartment. Because there is no plastic "switchover valve" on top of the valve cover for this year/Cali model, I was assuming that on this car, I did not mess up--that the transmission-related-accelerator-vacuum-reducing function is somewhere else, and not integrated in the parts that I removed. (The trans. certainly feels okay). Is this correct? Or, did I mess up this one also--could it be that the "control unit" (#80), using the data from the "rpm sensor" (#82), actually uses the "vacuum converter" (#84) to do just that, i.e., reduce vacuum to the trans depending on accelerator pressure? Please don't tell me that I just answered my own question!

Any light you can throw on these questions will be much appreciated.

From the pic you posted... it appears I can remove the EGR valve, the vac line to 84 "Vac Converter"

What about this "Air Recirculating Valve" No 71 to "Switchover Valve" No 81?

Basically trying to get the last word on the '85 Fed/'85 Cali's...