EGR blocking plate kit - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 07-22-2004, 07:37 PM

Brian, Installed the kit today on 603 engine. Only problem was aligning bolt with nut in clamp as you described. Found ovalizing the proximal hole in clamp with rat tail file made it easy. Thanks again for offering this nice kit to us.

jsp · #2 03-02-2005, 03:26 PM

Sorry to revive an old thread, but could you confirm something for me?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

You only need to plug one port.

You can plug the hose, right at the valve.

Or you can remove the hose from the valve to the coolant sensor and plug the coolant sensor with a rubber cap.

Or, you can remove the hose from the coolant sensor to the piggyback valve on the valve cover and plug the piggyback valve.

Or you can the remove the vacuum supply to the piggyback valve on the valve cover and cap the vacuum supply with a rubber cap.

The last suggestion would leave you with the cleanest setup.
Since there is no vacuum downstream of the capped port, you can remove all the vacuum hoses and not worry about the open ports.

I'm having trouble following this. What year/model is this for? (I have an 83 300D-T and 84 300D-T (both Calif.)
Does this mean that both coolant sensor and the piggyback valve are entirely unnecessary without the egr? I wish there was a nice picture like the one posted by Dave M. Has anyone done something this to their 83 or 84 300D-T, and would like to post pictures for the benefit of others?

Brian Carlton · #3 03-02-2005, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsp

Sorry to revive an old thread, but could you confirm something for me?

Does this mean that both coolant sensor and the piggyback valve are entirely unnecessary without the egr? I wish there was a nice picture like the one posted by Dave M. Has anyone done something this to their 83 or 84 300D-T, and would like to post pictures for the benefit of others?

That is correct. Just be careful that the piggyback valve is only for the EGR. On some engines, there were two valves, and one controlled the EGR and the other was transmission vacuum related. It all depends on which vehicle you have. "Most vehicles" use those piggyback valves simply to regulate EGR.

Just track the hoses and see if they end up at the EGR valve. If so, then the piggyback valve is not required.

jsp · #4 04-08-2005, 05:16 AM

The kits instlalled very smoothly, thanks to Brian Carlton's detailed instructions.

However, I went on to remove what I thought were unnecessary vacuum lines, and I have two questions about what is actually necessary and unnecessary:

1. On my 1983 300D-T, I removed all the lines from the egr, all the way upstream to the black plastic box on top of the valve cover (I found no arv vacuum line). so far so good. However, in my zeal, I removed the plastic box "switchover valve" and contents as well. Now I'm realizing that I went too far--that one of the functions of the box is to allow a "bleeding" of vacuum depending on accelerator travel, thus reducing vacuum to the transmission when the accelerator pedal is pressed. So, I should put it back. Can someone please confirm this for me?

2. On my 1984 300D-T California (the system is different on it; see attached diagram), I did something similar: removed all lines from the egr and arv, including the "vacuum converter" (#84) on the passenger side wall of the engine compartment, just back of the headlights, and going all the way to the vacuum junctions at the driver's side of the engine compartment. Because there is no plastic "switchover valve" on top of the valve cover for this year/Cali model, I was assuming that on this car, I did not mess up--that the transmission-related-accelerator-vacuum-reducing function is somewhere else, and not integrated in the parts that I removed. (The trans. certainly feels okay). Is this correct? Or, did I mess up this one also--could it be that the "control unit" (#80), using the data from the "rpm sensor" (#82), actually uses the "vacuum converter" (#84) to do just that, i.e., reduce vacuum to the trans depending on accelerator pressure? Please don't tell me that I just answered my own question!

Any light you can throw on these questions will be much appreciated.

Hit Man X · #5 04-17-2005, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsp

2. On my 1984 300D-T California (the system is different on it; see attached diagram), I did something similar: removed all lines from the egr and arv, including the "vacuum converter" (#84) on the passenger side wall of the engine compartment, just back of the headlights, and going all the way to the vacuum junctions at the driver's side of the engine compartment. Because there is no plastic "switchover valve" on top of the valve cover for this year/Cali model, I was assuming that on this car, I did not mess up--that the transmission-related-accelerator-vacuum-reducing function is somewhere else, and not integrated in the parts that I removed. (The trans. certainly feels okay). Is this correct? Or, did I mess up this one also--could it be that the "control unit" (#80), using the data from the "rpm sensor" (#82), actually uses the "vacuum converter" (#84) to do just that, i.e., reduce vacuum to the trans depending on accelerator pressure? Please don't tell me that I just answered my own question!

Any light you can throw on these questions will be much appreciated.

From the pic you posted... it appears I can remove the EGR valve, the vac line to 84 "Vac Converter"

What about this "Air Recirculating Valve" No 71 to "Switchover Valve" No 81?

Basically trying to get the last word on the '85 Fed/'85 Cali's...

Brian Carlton · #6 07-22-2004, 08:07 PM

Mike,

Glad the kit worked out. Getting that bolt started is a royal PIA and it will cross thread quite easily. I never ovalized mine but I did spend a good 30 minutes with the 617 to get it started.

The 617 is much more difficult than the 603 due to the increased stiffness of the clamp.

If anybody is struggling with it, send me an e-mail for additional support.

coachgeo · #7 07-22-2004, 11:19 PM

I must appoligize. I keep forgetting to arrange to get some $$ out to you for a kit.

Brian Carlton · #8 07-23-2004, 09:17 AM

Not a problem George. Just one more day that you have to look at that butt ugly valve sitting there...............

JHZR2 · #9 07-23-2004, 01:48 PM

Sorry, I havent sent the money, but Im listed as wanting one long ago. I have been travelling so much, I havent been on here as much as I'd like.

I have one issue though. When I pull the valve, there is a set of vacuum tubes that need to be plugged: the piggyback valve on the valve cover, and the two connections on the engine, that go fom the piggyback valve to the engine (temp sensor?) and the second going from the engine to the EGR. What would I use to seal all those off? I have tried searching and posted in another thread, and never found much good info. The best I saw was to drive a screw into the hole for the connection on the valve cover. Maybe this would work, but Id like a better solution to go with the nice setup I'll be getting.

Thanks,

JMH

Brian Carlton · #10 07-23-2004, 02:31 PM

You only need to plug one port.

You can plug the hose, right at the valve.

Or you can remove the hose from the valve to the coolant sensor and plug the coolant sensor with a rubber cap.

Or, you can remove the hose from the coolant sensor to the piggyback valve on the valve cover and plug the piggyback valve.

Or you can the remove the vacuum supply to the piggyback valve on the valve cover and cap the vacuum supply with a rubber cap.

The last suggestion would leave you with the cleanest setup.
Since there is no vacuum downstream of the capped port, you can remove all the vacuum hoses and not worry about the open ports.

BrierS · #11 07-23-2004, 02:39 PM

Brian,
Thanks for the shipment of the EGR "test" kit. Installed mine this morning and it went very smoothly. Trying to determine what a "good amount" of sealant made me ponder for a moment yet after reading the tube I decided 1/8" plus due to using it on both mating surfaces should work. Locked it up and put the keys where my two sons won't grab them and start it up prior to the 24 hours. Thanks again.

Brian Carlton · #12 07-23-2004, 02:47 PM

Steve,

I want everybody to use a lot of sealant, because the process of putting on the clamp causes most of the sealant to squeeze out. This is due to all of the moving around that the plate undergoes when you are trying to get the clamp to start.

If you use too little sealant and it does not fill the gap between the plate and the manifold, it is going to leak.

Glad it worked for you.

BrierS · #13 07-23-2004, 02:55 PM

Brian,
Good point to get out here, especially after I read my post. The 1/8" plus was heavy on the "plus" and it does flow out. I'll let you know after 24-hours if I detect any leaks but I certainly doubt it. Thanks again.

BrierS · #14 07-24-2004, 12:16 PM

Brian,
As you probably expected, mine worked just great. No leaks. Thanks.

#15 07-24-2004, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Brian Carlton
I want everybody to use a lot of sealant, because the process of putting on the clamp causes most of the sealant to squeeze out.

Are you worried about this sealant squeezing into the intake and being consumed by the engine?