OK, so where does the other end of the wire send the Airflow info to: ??
I don't thing the EGR has any electrical connections
What did the info change in other engine settings?

It goes to the EGR computer to tell it how much air is going into the engine.

so i could remove the egr computer also, ?? where is it located
and is it a stand alone computer for the EGR or is it combined with other sensors and computer functions etc. ??

No, from memory all '85+ require it for operation of the tach.

Just remove the AFM, reinstall your stock air intake and off you go.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

The EDS (Electronic Diesel System) is still required for idle speed control. So no, you can't remove it entirely, unless you want to live with mechanical idle speed. The sensors in the box under the air cleaner measure intake air temp & total airflow, the computer uses this to determine when to engage the EGR and ARV. The 1987 models are simple to modify, but from 1990-up it takes a lot more work since the wastegate is also computer controlled. BT, DT.

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I pulled out the airbox (air mass flow sensor) along with the EGR and other vac solenoid on that side of the car.... Disconnected the 2 x vac lines at the double-T branch and placed a short piece of vac line looped back onto itself stuffed into those two holes on the T. Disconnected the fatter black breather line at a union near the brake master cyl going into the cabin. pulled all the lines out with the vac solenoids.. cleaned up that side of the car nicely.

FYI, replace the airbox with a 3" diameter exhaust pipe cut to 7.25" long. The 3" end fits perfectly into the engine side snorkel, but I needed to build up the other end to fit snuggly into the air filter side of the pipe (because of course the two sides of the airbox do not have identical diameter openings. So what I did was wrap a strip of flat cork gasket material (about 1.5mm thick) around the pipe cementing it on with rubber cement. FYI the wrap length is about 9.5", overlap slightly, then razor trim to make that cork lay flat so the seam ends butt together.

Tips:
0. Take out the airbox bracket from car, unbolt the airbox from this bracket and discard, but KEEP the bracket and re-mount it back in car. The filter housing bolts to it.
1. Fit the cork end of the your new tube into the "U" shape plastic piece while it's outside of the vehicle. It has its own rubber bushing too.. get this all mated up nicely then tighten that clamp down.
3. THEN slide the metal end of your tube into the engine side snorkel and tighten down that clamp. But before you bare down on it, align the air hole opening to where it needs to be to accept the air filter housing mounting on top of it. Hint, it rests on the bracket.
4. Use a long tie strap around the neck of the U tube and zap it to that bracket it is resting on. This holds it in alignment when you are stuffing the box back on top of it.
5. Don't worry about item 2 missing in this list. And don't question why it starts at zero. Just have a nice day.

The airbox must weigh about 10 pounds. The pipe is maybe 1 pound.

For fun, I'm filling a box of all stripped and unecessary or disconnected parts. Cat converter is next. Betcha I can get to 100 lbs.

Regards
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Sounds nifty. Got a photo?

No photo, wife came out and said "I thought you were rototilling the garden?!" Busted.

Just imagine a shiny tube in place of metal box, and you'll have the idea. I was going to paint it... but maybe later. I had a garden to do.

Oh, it goes without say, so I'll say it.... de-burr the ends and wipe out the insides of that exhaust tube... it's cleaned air flowing through, don't re-dirty it.

Scott

Installation complete; just put the copper on but waiting before I clamp down too hard on it because it is a little too cold for the usual curing time.

In place at around 12PM EST and I will probably pick up the car from it's curing place tomorrow night -- picked up a few vacuum line ends to slap on there as well tomorrow. Very excited to remove some vacuum lines this summer!

Thanks for all your hard work on this Brian & everybody else!

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'87 300TD Estate (Panzer Wagon, Sold)
'95 E320 Estate (Sabertooth, Sold)
'94 E500 (Stark 1, For Sale)
'04 VW GTI (Rhino, Sold)
'12 VW GTI Autobahn (Shadow)

Got mine on too. Seems to work great, super easy to install. Looks a lot better now.

DO NOT clamp down on it. The clamp needs to be tightened just sufficiently to keep the copper plate snugly inside the clamp. Any further tightening will deform the copper plate and definitely cause a leak.

im in for a set if still around

I'd take a set also.

Just ordered 2 to get started. Will go on an OM617 and an OM603.

Pics to follow.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

Are these still available?

I've sent an e-mail to the OP and posted my interest on this thread.

I'd like a kit if it is available. Thanks.