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#1
04-27-2004, 07:52 AM
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dumb little assy question - oil pan
I'm putting a 617 engine back together. Should the fiber gasket supplied be installed without any sealant, or should I use a sealant? I suppose this question applies to a few other gaskets like the one s for the vacuum pump and thermostat housing. I do not plan to use any sealant on the gasket for the injection pump, as I know that needs to move some what to time the injection. Any advice or experiences appreciated. Thanks!
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#2
04-27-2004, 08:27 AM
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Generally if you have clean surfaces and a new gasket you need nothing else. However, I don't think it would hurt to put a little sealant on each side of the gakset.
__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R
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#3
04-27-2004, 09:58 AM
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don't use silicone....
NOTE: Don't use anything that has silicone in it. Our engines HATE silicone. Just try doing a wordsearch hear on it and you will see.
__________________
Mr Goodfahrt (pronounced FAIRT... means "good trip" in German) 1982 300D Turbo Pastel Gray (off-white) 200k+(?) newbie but willing
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#4
04-27-2004, 10:45 AM
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__________________
1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k
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#5
04-27-2004, 11:15 AM
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The first time I took my turbo off I noticed my intake/exhaust gasket was ripped. I used silicone on it with great success. I also used the silicone to seal up the EGR tube that I cut. It worked great for me.
__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R
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#6
04-27-2004, 12:59 PM
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Both surfaces need to be clean in any case....
But I always put sealer on the item which will come OFF the engine.... I don't want to have to clean gasket sealer off something with me upside down and it dropping into my eyes.... better to have it off in my hands... and able to be put into a tank or held up to the power wire brush to make it clean enough to eat off of... The normal way of using silicone sometimes causes problems because it squeezes out and may form a little ball which can block an oil line or something like that... it is mentioned in the factory shop manual I believe... However, my method, ( for cork or paper gaskets)which has served me about 20 years... after I had to take a bunch of stuff BACK off a Dodge engine to get to the water pump to redo the gasket ... and I admit to it seeming to be compulsive/obsessive.. but make no apologies for same... put a thin coat of silicone ( I only use high temp Red) on one side of your gasket with your figers... as thin as you can... then let it cure completely... and to the same to the other side and the edges.... let cure completely... then when you start to install.... on that totally clean ,shining and Klix88 ( wax and silicone remover) wiped area.... smear as thin a layer of silicone on the area and again on the gasket....then install and TORQUE TO SPECS.... remembering that the most common cause of any gasket leaking is OVER TORQUEING OF THE BOLTS..... On things like VW valve covers the usual procedure is to apply 3M contact cement ( yellow death) on the item which comes off the engine ONLY... and use oil on the gasket to engine surface... this way it stays clean and can be reused... and the gasket comes off with the cover... if it needs to be replaced it is all you really have a job cleaning....
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