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  #16  
Old 05-08-2004, 09:40 PM
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I like slow/controlled application of force when I can accomplish it..... this really worked just right....
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  #17  
Old 05-08-2004, 09:42 PM
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$30 will buy a comealong...... with some left over... then you have it for all sorts of other things.... This is sort of a DIY forum... not a " I took it to the mechanic" forum....
More tools= better life
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  #18  
Old 05-08-2004, 11:23 PM
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WD40- Waist of time

In the paste WD40 was the only thing out there but now there are much better penetrants to use. PB-Blaster is the one most recomended these days by heavy duty backyard mechanics.
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  #19  
Old 05-08-2004, 11:28 PM
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I would not waste my time or penetrant on it... just get enough force to loosen it.... it is a deep plug....
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2004, 11:41 PM
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Autozone has 1/2" drive Allen sockets. I got the right one, put in on my trusty breaker bar, got the car on ramps, steadied the bar with one foot and then kicked it with the other. Broke loose on the first shot. Rmmagow, if you want to borrow the tool you are welcome to it. RT
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  #21  
Old 05-08-2004, 11:55 PM
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This thread brought back a few memories
We've had many that were so stubborn that a four foot pipe was used on a half inch drive Snap On breaker bar. I weigh 180 pounds and I've still had to ask our shop owner to lend some of his strength and 300 pound body weight before they broke loose. You can see the bar bend but none ever broke before the plug loosened.
Using a one inch drive impact might do it.
Only once, when the 14 mm drive rounded out, did we resort to the pneumatic hammer with a chisel bit to "entice" the filler plug CCW out.
30 pounds of torque is plenty to hold the plug in.
Nice piece of engineering with the come along Leather. Those things are sure handy.
I have the feeling that some mechanics are blowing the plugs back in with an impact tool.
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  #22  
Old 05-09-2004, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by leathermang
.... This is sort of a DIY forum... not a " I took it to the mechanic" forum....
More tools= better life

OK, Greg, I'll shut up next time. Maybe, I'll even do it myself.
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  #23  
Old 05-09-2004, 10:54 AM
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If you decide to do it yourself.... and need any advise... just hollar at us....
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  #24  
Old 05-09-2004, 12:50 PM
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RT,
Thanks for the offer. Hopefully I'll be OK with the new tools coming in. I needed a come-along anyway to drag a garden shed a few feet. So far I don't really have an "indy" for my MB's and short of fixing the A/C I probably won't. The car is making so much noise just moving it around the yard I think the axle is ready to break altogether anyway so I feel better doing it myself.
I did undo the wheel end of the axles and both sides moved easily so that side'll be OK. Even got a pair of new rotors to put on, a pair I got off E-bay just cause they were cheap. Should be fixed within two weeks barring too much over-time at work :-(
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  #25  
Old 05-09-2004, 03:29 PM
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When I changed mine a few years back, the threads came right out with the plug, LOL. (Although I wasn't laughing at the time...) Looked as though it had never been done.

I put on a used diff cover, and threw a little anti-seize on the threads...making sure not to tighten it too much.

For a stuck one, and in retrospect for myself, I think leathermang's method is the best - a slow, controlled force works far better than yanking around on a b-bar, otherwise you may risk doing what I did.
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  #26  
Old 05-09-2004, 05:27 PM
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If you have a Grainger near you they carry the Proto brand 14MM hex with 1/2" drive. I put a breaker bar on it with pipe extension. I think you can order a magnetic drain plug from a '70 era mb manual trans for $12.00 from the dealer. One of the more userful and affordable items from a dealer! Hate to think what that Samstag Sales item cost. Remember to put some aniti-seize on it and torque it properly when it goes back in.
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  #27  
Old 05-09-2004, 08:53 PM
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I remember trying to the plug outta my 126. 14mm allen socket, 18'' breaker bar, section of pipe on that. Put so much torque on it I thought I was gonna turn the car over! But the plug came out clean. And yeah, this would have been a whole lot easier with the car up on a lift, 'course then I might have twisted it right off the lift.
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  #28  
Old 05-09-2004, 11:11 PM
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With doing the axles you have to remove that plate anyway. On one car I think I broke it loose on the car with enough force with a 25" breaker bar. On a different w123 I just took the whole plate off, stuck it in the vise securely, heated it with a propane torch, used the 25" breaker bar on it. It seemed a bit easier after heating the surrounding area a little bit, but with just a propane torch there wasn't that much risk.

On the topic of magnets I have a transfer case in my talon which the oil looked horrible after 6k miles so I figure I'd add a magnet. I bought enough to do both my cars on each drain plug or reservoir. Well after 6k miles on the new oil it still looks pretty clean. I have magnets on the tranny pan, engine pan, and rear differential on the mercedes now. Once you open up the rear differential you'll see how valueable a magnet like this could have been years ago.... Which reminds me, its about time for me to drain out my mobil 1 75w90 and put some redline 75w90 in there.
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  #29  
Old 05-10-2004, 08:12 AM
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"this would have been a whole lot easier with the car up on a lift, 'course then I might have twisted it right off the lift."

My car was just up on some of those plastic ramps available now... so I was on laying out flat when doing this... One would need to be much less thick than I to do this without getting the car up some....
If it had been up on an actual lift I have a four foot cheater bar which would have been faster than going and getting the comealong and the jack for anchoring...
A warning to those who have not done this type stuff.... it is very hard to hold an object in a vise and apply this much force to it without either warping or breaking it.... if possible get both plugs loose while the force is evenly applied by the bolts holding it to the differential...
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  #30  
Old 05-10-2004, 08:53 AM
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Second Source for Wrench

NAPA has the correct allen wrench for something like $8.00. Not as fancy as Greg's ...just a bent piece of heat-treated hex stock.
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