oil in the locking system???

Ok, I have a leaking shut off valve, to be replaced this weekend. I also have oil in my driver's compartment from this leaking valve (it's not from the oil pressure guage, the sd has an electric guage). Now, since the locking vaccum system is separate from the other vacuum system, how do I have oil in my locking system, back by the pump that has caused the auto locks to stop working? And how do I clean that sh;t out?
Thanks!

PS how do I remove the trunk liner to access the hoses better?

[autozen]

Since you have an early 126, you might have a mechanical gauge. Look at your oil filter housing. If you see an electrical connection, your assumption is correct. If you see a black line, the problem is a leaky gauge unit. The vacuum locks may be a seperate issue.

Peter

QUESTION???
Do the MECHANICAL oil pressure guages on the 123 and the earlier 126 diesels tend to leak from a damaged and or defective guage itself? OR would a leak usually result from either a stripped out screw coupling to the guage OR from a loose (from vibration?) coupling?
I ask, because yesterday I noticed a drop of BLACK OIL on the floor near the dead pedal in my 123. Upon checking on the top of the kickpanel with a clean rag, I was able to wipe off a decent amount of the s**t.......
I guess that the oil had dripped at that location because the kickpanel was NOT properly clipped into the firewall and sagged down.
The car shuts OFF correctly, even though it does have some vacume leak at the fuel door.
Since this is the case, I am WONDERING what the general opinion may be as to the source.
The vehicle is a 1985 300D, and I have NOT had the guage cluster out since purchasing the ride 5 years and aprox 60,000 miles ago.
Just wondering if I MAY need to get another junkyard guage in the near future.
Thanx for any input!
spo out

[autozen]

Many years ago I had a cream puff 63 220Sb. Auto and power steering. The thing idled quieter than a mouse pissin on cotton. One of the best MBs I have ever owned. I'm 99.9% sure the leak is coming from the oil gauge. It is a chronic problem on the 123 chassis. I have changed dozens of them. A new unit is about $250, so hopefully you can snag a good used one that hasn't started to leak yet. The gauge leak has nothing to do with the locks.

Peter

I specifically stated that I DO NOT have a mechanical oil pressure gauge! I do have a bad shut off valve on the back of the IP, (I have tested it and visually inspected it) that has let oil crawl through the system, all the way to the key, radio, and more! When I look under the kick panel, which I have removed currently, I find that the oil gauge is completely dry, but the key connection and that whole area is covered with oil. Hopefully everyone can be convinced now that I do not have a leaking gauge. I understand it is common on the 123, and 116, but the 126 has an electric gauge.

What my question is, since 126 has a separate pump system for the locks, how are the two vacuum systems connected so it would allow oil to creep to the rear of my car and stop the locking system also? I have found oil in the rear of my car where the vacuum system tee's to different directions. ALso, how do I properly remove the trunk liner, without breaking the rivets or the liner?
Thanks!

[dmorrison]

I don't think you will convince EVERYONE that your oil pressure guage is electric . With that point aside, I would say you do have a dilema.
The dash area. I use brake cleaner spray in the can to clean the lines from the shutoff unit to the dash. This will require removing the instrument cluster for access to the plastic vacuum lines. This will also make replacing the shutoff switch on the ignition unit easier.
Clean all lines by spraying the brake cleaner thru the lines until clear. Replace all ruber units, connectors and 3way and 4way connectors. Replace the sutoff unit on the ignition switch. Then check for oil in the vacuum elements of the AC system. If found, replace the units and rubber connections.
check to see if the leak is the shutoff unit on the IP or the vacuum pump. Either of these units leaking will migrate to the whole system. Check them both while your doing all this work to correct the oil problem. Nothing worst then haveing to go back and re-repair something.
Your door lock system is completely separate from the engine system as you have posted. Your early model system should have the pump in the engine compartment. The second version, which you indicted was your setup, is in the trunk. Check the vacuum/pressure pump for leakage. I will confess, I do not know if the door lock pump has it own oil in it. This may be a source of the oil. It does appear to be a dry pump. Since the door system pump is a combination vacuum and pressure pump,
First could the "oil" be a mixture of deteriated rubber and water from the atmosphere??
Second, where is the pressure side of the door lock recieve its air from? This air source could be providing the "oil" that is in the system especially if the air source is in the engine compartment. Over the years the grease and grim has just accumulated in the vacuum/pressure pump of the door lock system. It doesn't take a lot of "oil" to make the system look contaminated.

Dave

PS Liner rivets. The black plastic rivets have a top and the reciever. Use a wide screwdriver to lift the top unit of the rivet out of the reciever. The top unit has a round, flat top and a stem that goes into the reciever that spreads the bottom unit. Once the top unit is out, remove the bottom unit in the same manner and the liner will come out.

[Rick Miley]

The systems should not be interconnected, so there should be no way for engine oil to get into your lock system. However, I've seen plenty of goofy "fixes" by people who thought they knew better than the engineers at MB. So maybe a previous owner rerouted some of the lines. You can clean the stuff out with brake cleaner or carb cleaner, just check the can to make sure it is safe for plastic parts. Having never owned a 126, I can't help you with the trunk liners. But the pump is supposed to be in the spare wheel well.

[autozen]

Greasy,

Careful with the assumptions. MB is famous for slop over years. !969 was the last year for the K4A025 transmission, but it was continued in the SL through 71, because there was no room in the tunnel for the larger K4C025. 1990 Was the only year for a CIS computer and a MAS unit, but a car manufactured in 10/90 or later was sold as a 91, but stillhad the characteristics of a 90 year model. The list goes on. So settle down, and we will help you. As others have posted, the locking mechanism on the 126 is totally separate from everything. It is a one line system that uses both pressure and vacuum. The reason for the change from the earlier two line system which worked very well was to allow locking and unlocking from the passenger door and trunk as well as the driver door. You should never have oil in this system unless someone is playing a cruel trick. By the way the 2 vacuum lines to the ignition switch must be reconnected correctly. One is plain brown, and the other is brown with a blue stripe.

Peter

[compress ignite]

a failed injection pump shut-off valve (vaccum operated) will
allow sump oil to be pulled into the back of the ignition switch
AND eventually the A.C. climate control unit!

A mess , but not unfixable with patience.

First replace the shut off valve.

Before you start engine, apply vaccum to shut off valve:IF
emergency manual shutoff (red marked lever)does not move
...do not start engine!
Until you find problem.
DANGER OF UNCONTROLLED RUNAWAY!