I am checking the Linkages next, but I better spend some time with my daughter tonite or I will be in Big Trouble... Dont worry, i am kind of enjoying this, it makes it Fun, and it keeps me young....
Sometimes I wonder if the speedo is miscalibrated, sometimes I think I am doing 80++, but comparing my movement to other cars & traffic signs tell me I'm still slow.....the car is still topping out at 65 mph...
I didnt get to the Highway yet, I just picked it up from the Alignment shop, and I couldnt really put it to the floor except several times..because I had to come home over Local Roads...
I'm not even sure if I have to go to 80 / 100 anyway? Maybe I should just leave it the way it is, the speed limit here is 55 anyway...(just kidding)
This reminds me of the time I rebuilt my first Rotary engine and I couldnt get it started..there I had my first shiny sports car in my Life, I was dying to drive it and it sat there stone cold...until two days later, when I realized in the middle of the nite I had reversed the jets on my carburetor when I rebuilt that...two hours later I had her running at Dawn and a big smile on my Face and back then the Internet did not exist...

PS HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR ENGINE SO CLEAN, WHY does it Look Brand New?

I am reading the 89 page shop manual for the Diesel Injection system alone. Did you ever use the Diagnostics Tester?

1) My engine looks so clean because it was originally a CA car and had near zero corrosion anywhere, plus while I installed the new head a couple years ago, I went nuts with WD-40 and some rags. It's much dustier now but not dirty. No oil leaks helps a lot - the only leak I have is the oil pan gasket, which is far enough down that the top of the engine stays pretty.

2) I've never used any diagnostics tester. It shouldn't be needed, the computer only controls the EGR and ARV, I think? It may control the idle speed as well but that seems to work just fine with the other junk disabled.

3) I'm thinking you have low fuel delivery, combined with no boost enrichment (or maybe no boost). With the ALDA adjusted properly, but DISCONNECTED, the car should still be darned quick and able to pull near 100mph. My one car would get 0-60 in about 11 seconds with the ALDA connected, and slow to about 14-15 seconds with the ALDA line disconnected! But if the base setting is weak, with no enrichment it would be a real pig. I'm also wondering if you are getting boost pressure or not.

4) You still need to tell us the 0-60 numbers.

5) I'd really like to know what the boost pressure is - and if the pressure signal is getting to the ALDA or not.

was the 90-92 just a five cylinder turbo? am I getting my years confused? Also, was there a naturally aspirated 6 cylinder for MY 1987?

can you clear this up for me?

1987 300D had a 603.960, six-cyl turbo (148hp)

1990-1993 300D had a 602.962, five-cyl turbo (~125hp)

1995 E300 had a 606.9xx, six-cyl, DOHC, NON-turbo (134hp, but less torque than the turbos)

That's all we had imported to the USA. There were non-turbo 602 and 603 engines sold in Europe in the 124 chassis, but never in the USA. The 201 chassis got the 601 and 602 non-turbo engines from 1984-1985 in the 190D.

Where do I hook up the Boost Guage. I think it should go where that Y "Tee" is, but in case I am wrong, can you take a look at this Diagram?

I should get a 0 60 time by tommorow night

After 20 seconds I stopped counting.
Dont worry I know this takes patience. I lostthe July 4 weekend to trip to the Shenandoah Valley.
On the positive side, I got the AC up and running with R134 and the Front End finished. The car is in daily service now which should accelerate a solution.

1) You want the "T" in the line between Y30 (switchover valve) and 103 (the ALDA). Also, make sure you can blow through the switchover valve (Y30)... if not, that's a major part of your problem right there! If plugged you can try to clean it with solvent and compressed air, or replace it.

2) Cool - at 20 seconds, now we know your car is *definitely* not working properly! I think you have two things going on here - first, the ALDA needs tweaking to increase fuel delivery off idle. If this was set properly, your non-boosted 0-60 time should be mid-teens, not 20+. Second, I suspect you're not getting any boost signal to the ALDA at all, but you can test that as noted above. If so, that's probably the cure. The car should be capable of getting 0-60 in less than 12 seconds (via stopwatch - NOT counting. )

If you ARE getting boost to the ALDA, with a 20+ second 0-60 time, then we have a whole 'nuther problem somewhere - anything from plugged fuel filters, to plugged catalyst, frozen turbo, bad IP, or something else bizarre...

Has a plugged CAT been rulled out?

Marshall

I bypassed the clogged solenoid, hooked up my gauge and 0-60 in 11.6 seconds!!!

THANKS I OWE YOU!!!

(Now go easy on the smoky burnouts with the newfound power, ok?)

I was all smiles on the way to work, I feel better about this car and driving it.
Boy the Internet is really a powerful tool and I wonder how I got by with it 20 years ago.
Thanks again, &**!, if only i knew how to use these smiley faces

I think you meant to say !

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Just bought a '87 300D and the thing really hauls butt. My indy says it's the fastest he's ever drive. Haven't put a stopwatch to it yet, but the seat-o-the-pants is awesome...

EGR and ARV are connected. Any reason not to disconnect them for "testing"? I get 30 mpg on the highway, but would be glad for more.

__________________
'87 300D 183K
'06 E320 CDI 10K

Hiya BenzDriver,

1) Congrats on the new ride! Great cars. There are 4 in my family. (Can you tell we like them?)

2) 30mpg is excellent. The highest I've been able to get repeatably is 31.5-32.5mpg with a light foot. More typical is 28-30, and if you're getting 30, that is fantastic. Don't expect much more, even with disabling the EGR/ARV, but if you do get an improvement, woo-hoo!

3) Definitely disable or bypass the EGR and ARV. I removed all the junk from my car including the solenoids under the air cleaner, and the EGR valve itself. See my website link for photos of those, and many other, modifications to the 300D.

4) You are probably aware by now of the possibility of a bad head. Check what "number" your head is, and keep an eye on the "high cold pressure" symptom - as well as engine temps in the summer. Use ONLY the proper MB coolant and be religious about the 2-year change interval. The 1987 model especially, for some reason, don't tolerate poor cooling system maintenance. If the plastic coolant tank is old & yellow, consider replacing it - they are often swollen & cracked after 15+ years, and the new replacement (~$50) has an internal silica pack to control corrosion.


Best wishes,

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
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