10 days to rehab car- lengthy question - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WannaWagon · #16 06-29-2004, 07:37 PM

Whoa delano! Don't run off so quick! :p

First off, you failed to give us some basic info. Namely, what is wrong with the car and how much experience do you have working on cars?

Secondly, let me say that I just bought my wagon about a month ago, and in my research on these cars and my experience so far, I can say that these w123 machines aren't like other cars. They just don't fall apart like the rest, so you can probably scratch half that stuff off your list. I mean, even the plastics on these cars must be made of some gallactic polymer that only Benz knew about, because after 24 years in the California sun, all the plastics on my car still look brand new and don't shatter when you touch 'em. Try that on any American-made car! This is just one example.

Here's my advice: be reasonable. I know what you said about the sunroof, but come on. That can wait. Here's what I'd do:

First: Find a good independent Benz mechanic in your hometown and get your old man or somebody else to take the car in for an overall inspection. This will give you a good idea what the car really needs.

Buy a Haynes service manual and get the "Diesel Performance Tuning and Repair" and "Diesel Vacuum System Troubleshooting" manuals from **************.com shipped to you in D.C. Very handy. (P.S. -- Just made my first order with them and I'm very satisfied.) These and the archives on this board are your homework until D-day.

Then, when you get to town...

Day 1: Change all fluids, filters, belts, and any suspect hoses; test drive
Day 2: Valve adjust, timing chain check, diesel purge; test drive
Day 3: Brake service (fluid flush and new pads, if necessary); test drive
Day 4: Vacuum check and repair; turbo/ALDA adjust if needed; test drive
Day 5: Suspension repairs, if necessary; test drive
Day 6: Extra day for any problems that arose on previous days; test drive
Day 7: Wheel alignment and new tires, if needed; test drive
Day 8: Safety check (lights and controls), final test drive, check your work
Day 9: REST, work on sunroof & antenna if you feel like it, or give her a bath

Anything you don't get done can wait until you get to D.C. I know you said you don't have time, but by now you'll like this car so much that you'll want to make time.

P.E.Haiges · #17 06-29-2004, 10:29 PM

Delano,

You said the brakes were hard and you suspect vacuum. What does that mean? Do the brakes not work like power brakes because the vacuum is low?

Now that is something to work on before you bother with the sun roof or GP and GP relay.

P E H

whunter · #18 06-29-2004, 11:08 PM

Hello d.delano
You seem to think the car is going to fall apart tomorrow.
IMHO; these cars keep chugging along, even when abused with malice and forthought.
I love to work on Rolls-Royce and Bentley, but the car I own for my daily driver is a Mercedes Benz diesel.
A tool box in the trunk, a hydraulic jack and jack stands, and a handy parking lot is all you need for most repairs.

Don't sell yourself or the car short.
A small investment, a little patience, and you get a car you can't buy today for $40,000.00

d.delano · #19 06-29-2004, 11:23 PM

Good stuff.

Give some credit please, I did think of what was the bare minimum to get going but the list grew on its own. I want this car to last, and I don't want to be driving it around with all kinds of crap busted on it. I want that stuff fixed. I do have knowledge of what's wrong with it. It's got a vacuum leak obviously, no power, massive slop in the front end, hard brakes, cruise doesn't work(no mention of that on my list), etc. Usual problems for the car, according to all the stuff I've read about it. If the exterior weren't in such awesome shape I would just do whatever it took to get it running well and call it a day. But it ain't no beater, and deserves some TLC.

My experience with wrenching on cars is pretty good for a guy my age. I'm an architect, not a mechanic, but I've swapped an engine before and done most of my own maintenance on all the cars I've ever had. Wrenching ain't hard as long as you're patient and have the right tools. I once rebuilt a slave cylinder while broken down on the side of the road. Pulled a driveshaft and replaced u joints in my college dorm parking lot. I'm not ASE certified nor did I attend Benz school but I'm not a retard either. Somewhere in the middle.

Side note, after I bought this car I have been seeing literally dozens of 123 diesels in this town. Everybody has one now. Young and old. Everybody smiling as they go down the street. Could this be caused by the gas situation?

d.delano · #20 06-30-2004, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by whunter
Hello d.delano
You seem to think the car is going to fall apart tomorrow.

Right on. It's a mental thing I know. But that's been my luck w/ automobiles! I could drive someone else's car for a long time and never have any problems with it. When one becomes mine stuff starts falling off immediately. I drive sensibly enough, and maintain. Bad luck with cars. I take worst case scenario on everything.

The Warden · #21 06-30-2004, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by d.delano
Right on. It's a mental thing I know. But that's been my luck w/ automobiles! I could drive someone else's car for a long time and never have any problems with it. When one becomes mine stuff starts falling off immediately. I drive sensibly enough, and maintain. Bad luck with cars. I take worst case scenario on everything.

I actually have difficulty blaming you. This was the story of my life...until I gave up on gasoline engines in 1999. Since switching to diesel, I've only had one vehicle give me an engine problem, and the vehicle was still drivable (I would have fixed the problem if the rust hadn't been so bad; as it was, that truck got parted out).

That said, I think that following WannaWagon's list would be a good idea, as would making two trips out of this. Go down there once for a few days to ascertain for certain what exactly needs to be replaced, then order the parts needed for D-day.

For example, the vacuum problem may not be the pump. The brake booster could be bad, or the hose going from the brake booster to the vacuum pump could have a crack. There are two nipples coming off of that hose, and I had the misfortune of breaking one once...and lost all vacuum until I got a new hose.

Again, that's just an example, but IMHO, regardless of what you plan to fix or not fix, you're best off figuring out what you need before buying parts. I've learned this from experience; too much time and $$ spent buying a part and finding that it's not right.

Just my $.02...and, although I wouldn't give up just yet, I would think long and hard about finding a place in DC where you can work on your car if need be. If, even after you get everything happy, something goes wrong in DC, being forced to pay a mechanic will make the cost of owning that car skyrocket...

Good luck whichever way you go.

d.delano · #22 06-30-2004, 10:22 AM

This is all good advice, and I shall consider it in earnest. I will now pare the parts list down to the essentials.

Eric Eliel · #23 06-30-2004, 12:04 PM

I wouldn't buy a third of that stuff until you really get into it. Fastlane can ship to you overnight for the important parts. **************.com doesn't have nearly that good of a track record.

Fuilds, belts, (did someone mention hoses too?). Thermostat. You can plug vacuum leaks with golf tees until you track down the problem.

The sunroof has some rather expensive feet that are mostly likely needed at this age. Those are not included in the kit at that price. (about $9.00 each for 4).

Oil Cooler lines!!!!!! Don't use the aftermarket ones get genuine factory parts for that item.

Lower turbo oil drain line. Trans cooler lines (aftermarket ok for those two hoses).

What kind of shape are the half shafts?

You really need to get the front end inspected properly BEFORE you start throwing money into the front end.

Hatterasguy · #24 06-30-2004, 12:17 PM

Don't throw money at these cars they will eat it up! Find out what needs to be fixed and than fix it. It is an old car not everything will work 100% all of the time. But they are simple to work on and built very well

I also seconed the above oil cooler line advice, dealer only. You don't want to trust a $5,000 engine to aftermarket junk.

tstarr · #25 06-30-2004, 01:37 PM

d.delano,

On the parts issue, I would also look locally. I live in Maryland and buy many of my parts (those I don't buy from fastlane...) from EMB Company in Fairfax, VA. They have been very good in terms of price and quality. I have 2 w126 cars and have had the rock hard brakes in the past. I would echo much of the advice here - minimize what you're going to do because these cars are rugged, get a MityVac or similar because that's probably the source of your brake problem. Unless, of course, the problem is actually the vacuum pump itself.
You're right on the 123s locally - they're everywhere. I rarely stop at the local Shell station for diesel fuel without having another Benz pull up before I leave.

- Ted

d.delano · #26 06-30-2004, 01:54 PM

OK I have pared the list down considerably. I feel better. Less than a third of what it was, and one-fourth the cost.

How much do oil cooler lines cost at a dealer? They're an expensive item at Fastlane.

TwitchKitty · #27 06-30-2004, 02:33 PM

Is it just me or does anyone else think this thread looks like an advertisement for the above mentioned website?

d.delano · #28 06-30-2004, 02:44 PM

Just you

Eric Eliel · #29 07-01-2004, 02:10 AM

The factory oil cooler lines for a 123 list for $66 and $73 each. They are available from a well known SO CA MB dealer that offers 20% off factory list (that real factory list not an inflated factory list). That puts the price right near the Fastlane (World Pac) aftermarket price. Send me a PM and I'll point you in the right direction.

IMHO this open forum is for helpful info, not free advertising for competitors.

I have used both and the factory hose material is superior. I've had problems with the aftermarket hoses.