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#1
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This weekend I decided to tackle the turbo and oil seperator seals, since I seemed to be getting a record amount of leakage in that area lately. I downloaded the Easly how-to that involves pulling the pan and not the turbo, but I've run into issues. Mainly, I cannot get the upper tube onto the lower tube when the lower tube is installed properly. There isn't enough room to install it and "swing" it under the turbo. I can't push it down far enough to get it in place, even with the lower tube pushed down. The lower tube seems to hit something where it installs to prevent much downward motion. It is free of all old seal remnants. Does anyone have any recommendations for easing this process? Also, does anyone have any recomendations for removing the bracket that holds the oil seperator return tube so that I can remove the lower connection to replace that O-ring? It's a bugger to get at.
Thanks in advance.
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J.B. Hebert -------------------------- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale) '94 Ford Explorer '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ |
#2
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Did this job a couple of years ago. I chose to remove the oil pan to do it.
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/123-cd-index.html Job 18-031 When removing the upper and lower tube you rotate each tube at the turbo, for the upper one and the oil pan for the lower one. This allows the joint where they meet to separate. Unbolt the upper tube from the turbo. Then push the tube connecting joint away from the engine to separate the 2 tubes. IF the oil pan seal #95 is old it may be stiff. This will prevent you from rotating the lower tube enough to separate the tubes. You have to dig the lower seal out of the upper oil pan. I used a small screwdrive to do this. Be careful not to gouge the upper oil pan and lower tube. Having the lower oil pan off, I was not concerned about pieces of the oring falling into the oil pan. Installing the 2 tubes, I installed the lower oil pan seal, the oring, and the tube. Push the lower tube so the upper and lower tube can mate. It does require some pressure to get them to mate. Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#3
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Dremel to the rescue...
I used a trick that my indy told me about.
You c an grind off about a half inch of the upper tube bell housing that slips over the lower tube without getting close to the o-ring seal. This allows you to rotate the two and with upwards pressure you can remove the upper return tube with little to no effort. Installing is much easier also.
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'99 S420 - Mommies '72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it '84 300SD Grey - Sold '85 300SD Silver - Sold '78 Ski Nautique |
#4
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You guys went to too much work. You don't need to drop the oil pan, cut anything off etc.
The bottom tube can be removed by tightening a hose clamp around the tube and using a screwdriver against the clamp to drive the tube upwards. I removed the old bushing with a cheap dental pick set from Harbor Freight after the tubes were removed. By tilting the tubes towards the right front corner of the car, they will slip back together and install. Not towards the front, not towards the side, DIAGONALLY.
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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#5
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Not at 20 degrees farenheit they won't...
I did my repair when it was b_tt cold out and the rubber just wouldn't budge. I couldn't get the two tubes to move at all.
I used the same pick set from Harbor Freight though.. Bent one of them but for a buck 99 you gotta be happy. Good info Eric.
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'99 S420 - Mommies '72 280SE 4.5 - looking to breathe life into it '84 300SD Grey - Sold '85 300SD Silver - Sold '78 Ski Nautique |
#6
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Finally got it back together. My major problem was the old seal was rock hard and did not allow any movement of the lower tube. I installed the new tube/gasket and pushed it as far down as possible. This gave me JUST enough clearance to slip the upper tube on, with it tucked as far up as possible. If I had to do it again (and I had the motor out of the car), I think I would redesign the whole system. But it's done, and it seems to be tight, so hopefully I won't have to worry about it for another 200k miles.
Thanks again.
__________________
J.B. Hebert -------------------------- Current Vehicles: '76 Ford Bronco '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe (For Sale) '94 Ford Explorer '95 Mercedes E300D Sportline+ |
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