w126 Body 300SD Water/Air Intercooler Project - Page 13 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#**181** 02-15-2006, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConnClark

No offense, If I had room under the hood I would be there with you. Hell, I loved the show Junkyard Wars.

I found someone who did something similar to what I proposed with the temp switch. check it out here http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/intercooler_system.pdf

Yeah the theory behind it is nice however I think you will find if you don't atleast run the pump that the IC will become heatsoaked really fast and your whole system will be operating almost all the time anyway.

I've noticed that when my pump used to suck some bubbles into it (it is a centrifrugal) that the IC would heatsoak and I could feel the difference on takeoff of the noticeably warming intake air. Keeping it as cool as reasonably possible as much of the time as possible is the best bet. I think control circuits and stuff are great but maybe almost useless in this application for all driving except the first 5-10min after startup.

This is just my experience of course dealing with how the IC on mine has performed/acted of course so "actual mileage may vary"

ConnClark · #**182** 02-15-2006, 08:26 PM

Mabey I'll just use the temp switch on the cooling fan and mabey a booster pump. Of course you have a lot of water to cool and not a lot of radiator so once things get heat soaked it is a big issue. I guess I need to start looking at cheap ways to dissipate the heat.

Anythoughts on the coolant recovery bottle?

#**183** 03-05-2006, 07:38 PM

I got my inlet of the IC relocated on the unit and now everything fits REAL nice under the hood. Sits flat on the bottom of the body (use foam as a vibration isolater) and matches the angle of the headlight/cowling....

Looks decent sitting in there and now I can order my silicone hosing and use some aluminium tube to connect the goodies up. Right now I am using steel piping and silicone truck radiator hose (3 and 2.5inch sizes). I beefed up my pre-IC clamps as well as you can see

For an idea of what was changed, see the eariler pictures in this thread for how it started out

ConnClark · #**184** 03-06-2006, 11:21 AM

Cool, you can probably get your cold air inlet back on your air filter box now.

#**185** 03-06-2006, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConnClark

Cool, you can probably get your cold air inlet back on your air filter box now.

That is my hope. I may have the pull the air from straight down after coming out of the airbox but I figure its worth the routing.

PSI magically jumped back up to 14.5psi today...was down a couple PSI on the top end...

...I think the boost contoller vent was plugged or something.

bgkast · #**186** 03-06-2006, 04:23 PM

Looks good!

ConnClark · #**187** 03-06-2006, 04:27 PM

Now if you could only cutout the Audi emblem and weld in a Mercedes emblem

unkl300d · #**188** 03-06-2006, 09:43 PM

HIDGolf · #**189** 03-07-2006, 01:54 AM

phew, i just read through that in one sitting. great discussion guys!

I too am a fan of the w 2 a aftercoolers. Just some food for thought. Instead of antifreeze i have heard of Toyota All-trac guys (w2a stock) using glycol-distilled water for their fluid. The distilled to keep impurities/additives from tap water and I have heard glycol is better than antifreeze in some respects, but I cant remember why.

Also I would like to mention that adding some simple ducting to your radiator for the w2a should make a noticable difference in cooling to help force every bit through instead of it simply going around.

As for a overflow tank for your w2a, VW ones are spherical, pressurized, and common. It has a plastic pressure cap, so you dont burn your hand either.

Id love to put a w2a tank on my TDI, with the exhaust, turbo, and intake on the same side...it would be a great way to shorten the intake track. Downside is that the w2a would have to be mounted on the firewall...making it hell to work on. Ill have to wait til my EGTs justify this.

Anywho, great project man.

#**190** 03-07-2006, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HIDGolf

phew, i just read through that in one sitting. great discussion guys!

Hey,

Thats a huge undertaking...180+ posts!

Good idea on the VW bottel...I've got tons of that stuff laying around here (geman parts everywhere) so I'll rig something up.

Now its time to start cranking the fuel again and bring the boost up. I am curious to see what this turbo can do.

Figure 20psi will be my limit....have to disable to over-boost protection circuit obviously but with a boost gauge in full view...I can see if anything is up

#**191** 03-07-2006, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

Good idea on the VW bottel...I've got tons of that stuff laying around here (geman parts everywhere) so I'll rig something up.

Whould it be a better idea to have a large tank to reduce the effects of heatsoaking? With two pumps, (One on the inlet one on outlet) circulation should not be a problem and the tank fluid would not be sitting idle.

#**192** 03-07-2006, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Whould it be a better idea to have a large tank to reduce the effects of heatsoaking? With two pumps, (One on the inlet one on outlet) circulation should not be a problem and the tank fluid would not be sitting idle.

The bottel is simply to keep air out of the IC water portion...it would go into my fitting at the top and be used as a "level maintainer"

Don't want to store a ton of water in the bottel...becuase the system already holds 2+ gallons of water and an extra 1/2 gallon won't do much more...

It heats up REALLY fast if you are getting roudy...but assuming you are moving and the radiator is good (gonna go with a small evap or similar) it cools down pretty well too.

The aux heat pump flows PLENTY of water to do this job...as long as the flow /hose setup is done right and it can't suck bubbles, it performs flawlessly and has a suprising amount of flow.

In theory yeah you could probably sneak some more mass into the system witha bottel but I am just looking for, essentially, an overflow bottel for when the system gets warm and the water expands.

Before I put my radiator on (just had a closed circulating loop) the water would get so hot that it would steam up real fast upon being exposed to the air (guessing 65-70C) It was warm enough that I couldn't hold my hand to it and I can handle pretty high temps....

...and that was with 2gal of water to heat up...3-4 pedal to the metal pulls.

HIDGolf · #**193** 03-07-2006, 11:14 AM

This is what you need:

http://www.are.com.au/Big%20HP/CraigsComm/hidden%20files/CraigsAWComorig.htm

OK, maybe not...I just like throwing that page around on occasion. Imagine how much weight they added to the car with that trunk mounted dry ice system! But then again, I believe it was just for a dyno competition.

ConnClark · #**194** 03-07-2006, 11:36 AM

Adding antifreeze to your water will enhance the cooling capabillities. I used to run nothing but straight water in my T-Bird in the summer (I did this because it leaked and we had a lot of pets running around our neighborhood). On really hot days it would overheat. Adding antifreeze would remedy the situation. It doesn't take alot of it either.

ConnClark · #**195** 03-07-2006, 12:02 PM

Brandon,

A thought just occurred to me, instead disabling your over boost protection, could you get a new pressure sensor/switch instead? It might be hard to find one that will fit spot for the old one, but you could get one that you run a line to. They also make adjustable ones http://www.pneuaire.com/fseprsw.html here is one you could adjust from inside the car and it might double as a boost gauge http://www.pneuaire.com/iesediprswwi.html