Modified my torque control today.
 

Well, just as the title says, I turned up my torque control today. I did it with the oil filter on since last time when I pulled the full load thing out I put in allen head screws rather than the regular bolts. My results thus far are astounding! There is a slight increase in black smoke off idle until the turbo starts building boost, but nothing too bad. (Read my sig) I don't know if it is just me, but the turbo seems to spool up a lot quicker and it deffinately has more power. Before I used to not get any wheel squeal on the my road (concrete) and only on the main roads (asphalt) Even If I power brake from a stop to try to get a "one wheel squeal", I would get nothing on concrete. Well that was my first test once I finished everything up and by god she roasted them. Well one of them but still. I only gave it about 3/8 of a turn CW. Everyone said go in 1/8 or 1/4 increments, so I just went in the middle. I also turned the coarse idle screw back about an 1/8 of a turn. There are no idle problems. It returns fine and stays at about 7-800 where it was before. My EGTs also went up a good bit. I just drove it around town so I'll have to get a good highway cruise number. I will update as I drive it more.

I would highly recommend this to anyone looking for more PAW-AH!

Well?

I'm in love with this car now. it is an entirely different animal! The turbo spools up a lot faster and keeps the power comin' up until 4500 rpm. The only smoke is off idle and my EGTs only go up rel high when I floor it off idle as well. The max I have got is only 850*F. My highway EGT is 550* which is only up maybe 100*F from when I just had the rack limiter removed. I'm going to be swapping in a 4 speed here pretty soon. I was actually thinking about selling my car and getting a Power Joke or a Cummins, but now I'm most definitely keeping her.

this is with the full load screw "rack" removed from the pump?

Correct. I removed that that back in April.

0-60?

Are you sure your EGT gauge and sensor are working properly.

As far as I know they are. I have no reason to believe that they aren't. This engine has always run cooler even before I took off the rack limiter. I used the pictorial that bgkast put up and put my EGT probe in the same place. I even have the same gauge as him. (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/167588-pyrometer-thermocouple-installation-pictorial.html) When I get some clear road I will do a 0-60 time and report back.

I still don't understand how ppl get the back off with the filter on. Maybe if I removed the oil cooler lines I could get it to fit.

The first time was uber hard. Since I replaced the bolts with allen head screws, it was exponentially easier.

Oh you were the one to do this eh? Sounds like I will be doing the same. Previously I just removed the filter stand. New engine, new things to do.

can't you just use a flat head bit with some vice grips clamped on the side to get the screws out?

Thats what I had to do the first time. I used a flat head bit for a drill and put it in a 1/4" socket and got a few out that way. Some I could use a screwdriver for. Others I had to bend an old screw driver 90* and use it as a "breaker bar"

first time I messed with the back of the pump I left the filter on. I even installed allen bolts, but second time I said F this and took the filter off. The job took half as long. Although it is possible to do this stuff with the filter on, for me at least, given my skeletal structure, it is much faster and more pleasant to do "more work"... I envy your ability to do this without removing the filter :)

IIRC you dont have to remove the oil cooler lines to do it with the filter housing off. Do you have to remove them Young Benz?

I wouldn't think that you have to remove them. They are not in the way unless you try to take the pump off. When I get around to ordering new gaskets I'm going to take the pump and oil filter off and turn it up a little more and double check my timing.