Thanks jeemu.
That is also my plan as soon as I get some 617a and 603a pre chambers for cheap.

Tom

I have to make a decision as to which way to go. I have some funds that I originally intended, and am trying, to use to buy a solid 123 body to transfer my 616 into, but every deal seems to fall through either because of me or other reasons, and I am starting to think I am not supposed to make that purchase right now.

The other option is that I can build the IP calibration set-up and build a super 10mm MW IP. Then I say to my self, yah, another machine that I'll only use once, and then it will be sitting around, that is just what I need, NOT!

Then again, with the calibration equipment, I could do a few MW IPs to get the machine to at least pay for its self. But that would be a wase down the road as no one has faith in a "Home Built" IP anything, unless it is proven time and time again, and I have better things to do.

I have selected a specific 10mm element that I will be using and have a couple spare 616 IPs, it is just a matter of cash and time. I am tempted to build two 616 IPs but then again, why tie up money on the shelf?

I am going to grind my IP cam to match the reduced lift needs that the modified 10mm element needs so there is extra cost, but if the cam was not modified, then the only costs would be the elements, about $18.00ea plus shipping (figure about $140.00 for a 617), and then they need to be modified at a cost TBD. Bearings, gaskets, springs (I will be using stronger springs), cleaning, reassembly, and tuning costs need to be considered as well.

The elements may run fine as they come though. One gentleman has proven that a different 10mm element will run fine in a 617a. The elements I have chosen put out less fuel than the ones he is running, so it may be practical to just install them with the stock cam, and tune for a cheep hot rod MW IP.

Times are tuff here in Michigan and anything that could possibly provide income is a good thing. But times are tuff everywhere so people are reluctant to spend money on non essential things.

I’ll probably end up just paying the mortgage.

Any advice or thoughts?

Well they would put out far more fuel that the lil 4 cyl could possibly use -wont they? you have to pay someone to set the pump up -or are you tooled up? do you know---PM

There is more to element size than just possible deliverable volume. Tomnik has reported very good power and mileage increases with 7mm elements on a 617 NA without increasing delivered quantity. This is the result of the larger elements ability to deliver the same quantity of fuel as a smaller size one, but in a much shorter period of time, (end of injection can be several degrees before TDC, which enables more of the fuel to be used for work instead being wasted.)

The 10mm elements I have chosen have a leaner, (for lack of a better description), end of injection control angle to start with than other 10mm elements I have looked at. I will be modifying the control angle to further reduce the deliverable capability of the element so I can use the full range of the rack, (should make for good drivability and smoke control).

It may be possible to run these elements as they are, but that will require some testing on the calibration bench and in car. I have an engine dyno just don't have an engine to play with.

I have a VNT turbo that I will be putting on my 616 with the hot pump so I will have mine set for more fuel than an NA one would be.

I have built one MW IP for a good friend that road races a 240d. I retimed the elements to a much tighter tolerance and eliminated the Torque control and High Speed governors. The only governor that still is working is the Idle governor. For that one I took it to a local shop to have them balance the quantities.

I have designed a calibration bench that will have digital interfaces for fuel output, RPM, rack position, Throttle position, and Lift pump pressure. This will allow me to graph the fuel curve of a pump and set multiple governors to match a graph of choice. Most of the IP adjustments I have done for street cars have been more a mater of shifting the fueling curve than actually increasing the max quantity, (full load).

That is true. Faster injection is better all the way. When i change 7mm to 8mm egt:s drop 100degrees. Also that extra power is good :)

I want to have a pump modded to anything more than stock....it can be mw or m i dont care and i cant get both pumps locally, but i need someone to tune it.

Who can do this? Im in california and i have talked to tomnik and the person he pointed me to will not respond.

Anyone have any ideas?

I have a 617.925

Pacific fuel injection or it may be called Pacific diesel injection? In the bay area.

anymore info? thats awesome!

Pacific Fuel Injection Service
153 Utah Ave, S San Francisco, CA 94080-6712
(650) 588-8880

They installed some Chinese made 10mm elements on a MW for this fellow.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/10mm-element-thread-t-716.html

And should be able to install tomnik's elements.



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Thats good to know--i thought it was a M that they did and was gonna get the spare M for the contingency plan -because there seems to be a communication dilema with the outfit elsewhere in the US. -hasnt botherd responding to me either.

This fella was able to find Chinese 10mm elements for the MW. But quality could be in questioned, since 1 out of 6 that he purchased was found bad. Luckly he only needed five.

tomnik's are the MW65 Holly 6.5mm element for the MW pump and the M75 Floyd 7.5mm elements for the M pump. So you have a choice between the two.






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Yes i could go either way--on IP mods that is.

So the mw is less prone to leaks, easier to rebuild (for the shop), and does not have to have a custom alda added.

Another question im wondering on the M, could a alda be taken from a 60x6 and swapped on a euro 617 M pump

And anyone--what is the gizmo riding sidesaddle on this m pump??
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/284936-m-pump-add-appendage.html

I am not familiar with the inner workings and housing shape between the two Ms, but I could imagine if an injection pump shop is rebuilding the 617 M pump, they could theoretically fit the tail of the 603 pump on it so it has an ALDA.


That is the vacuum control valve for the automatic transmission.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6&d=1284748968

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...8&d=1284749138



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Thanks Delivery, My 81 US that came with a M pump with the bowden cable has a different setup-the vcv is on top at the back

So after reading the post Delivery gave me i still dont know for sure how much it will be.

I want 160-200hp thats it so you guys think i should got with what size element?

I also want to spend a grand or under getting the elements and having then installed.

Is this a pipe dream or what? whats the cost come out to.....any one know?