The tank has so much rust in it, an obstruction in the line is very possible. Can I use compressed air to blow through it?

yes but open the cap before and slowly increase pressure. Too high pressure (before it bubbles in the tank) and you blow off the line joints.

In case of bubbles you got it but only for the next few miles then you will have the same issues.
Do you have a pre filter before the lift pump?

Tom

Like the clear inline filter? If so, yes. It has some rust sitting the bottom but it is still very clear.

Yes the clear filter.
All I want to know is whether you have a restriction somewhere in the supply line from the tank to the lift pump and therefore the lift pump is either not o.k. or is pulling air because of the restriction.

Tom

I need to take a picture so I can be sure what line you want me to purge with the air. The line off of the lift pump on the side of the injection pump goes to another block with several hoses in it.

I have a spare inline filter, I'll swap it out because they're cheap and I have two or three.

no need for the pictures.
The line between lift pump and tank.
If your thank is rusty then this line might be restrictive.

Tom

Well the line on the outlet side of the prefilter pulled off without having to loosen the clamp which was tightened as far as it would go. So I replaced the prefilter and put a new worm clamp on the outlet hose so now it is good and snug.

I blew air through the line that is the inlet to the prefilter from the tank, very low pressure to begin until I heard bubbles which was almost right away then I turned up the pressure.

Right now I'm cleaning up the huge mess of diesel I made lol.

Okay... so I fired the car up, allowed it to run up to temp for about 10-15 minutes. Ran smooth, still very very minor shaking, but that goes with the territory of the bad injectors I think I have.

Took it for a drive, shook a bit more as we drove but no where near as "obnoxious" (as the GF put it) as it has been. Like the star wasn't obviously moving. Got on the highway ran great (as it always does above 1k rpms) got off the highway and she was shaking hard again. Pulled in the garage, shaking about as hard as usual, maybe a bit less, but still pretty darn hard.

Here it is cold
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...LD603Shake.jpg

After 30-40 minutes of running and a drive
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...OT603Shake.jpg

This pre-filter is probably a year old so there probably is THAT much rust moving around, the rust is obvious the but the filter is far from clogged and none has made it past the element.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/DSCN5459.jpg

Going to pull the injection pump and fuel tank off the parts car.

I got the 4 bolts that hold the tank to the car, but it won't move, whats the deal yo?

Whats the right way to remove the injection pump? Put the engine at TDC?

tank removal: no idea, never did but filling tube?

IP removal: does not matter for removing but for installation you want to set the engine to 24 deg before TDC compression stroke, valves position! and and the IP: while still on the table: remove the delivery valve spring and little plunger on the first cylinder. Put back the DV holder (using the current copper seal and o-ring) then blow into the fuel hard line of the first cylinder and turn the IP manually until the flow off the supply and return bore of the IP body stops, at this position the IP is at begin of delivery. Put the little DV plunger and spring in together with new copper seal and new o-ring and install the IP in the middle of the adjustment range without turning it (the engine still is in the 24 deg position). Done.

Tom

A much easier method is to get the IP lock tool. When installing the pump, set the engine to 14° ATDC, insert the lock tool in the pump, and install the pump. That way you don't have to pull delivery valves.

The "wet" method described above uses the 24° BTDC... totally different reference points, so make sure you do not confuse the two methods. The 24° spec is frequently used when discussing the OM61x engines, while the 14° spec is almost always used for the OM60x engines, as the RIV method was not introduced until approx 1984, right at the end of OM61x production.

FSM docs:

Removing & installing injection pump:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-8410.pdf

Setting IP timing (A-B light box shown, lock tool can be used for this) :
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-8240.pdf


You are looking this stuff up in the FSM prior to asking on the forum, right?

:kid:

No I'm not looking them up, I don't own the FSM right now.

the notch on the flyweight support has to be "set" by the last one who assembled the IP. This setting is based on further settings on the pump like pre lift,...
The garage method I described is the physically correct and direct one, takes more time but independent from "tolerances" in the past.
On top it may help to understand what is going on in the pump instead of blind believing in RIV or other devices methods.
Later on the engine the begin of delivery is 24deg BTDC done by the garage method you know why.

I had the case that after getting grey hairs I checked the timing with a different method and it turned out that some hero did not fix the notch in the correct position.

Tom

You don't need to own one. It's online, free, at this URL:

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Main.html

:chinese2:

Awesome,

Last night I got the tank out of the parts car, got the injectors out as well.

I bought the three step tank cleaning and sealing kit from KBS, (jegs sells it and they are a couple streets down from my new house)