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  #1  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:56 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 60
I did it 95 Turbo 606

I got a hx35 with a 12 cm housing for free so I decided to put it on my car. Here is my photo album http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n1/2benchanted/Mercedes%20606%20turbo/ . I also replaced the glow plug harness and went with a full 3" exhaust.

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  #2  
Old 03-23-2010, 12:19 AM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise ID
Posts: 60
ok one question

I replaced the upper harness and took the battery out. I having problem with central locking system and the alarm is not working. I had the battery out for two days and now have this problem. Any help would be great will great will get more pics of the finished product.
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2010, 04:48 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise ID
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its alive

Well I have been driving the last two days and working out the bugs got the door lock issue fixed was a fuse. I have fixed all the air leaks and now am getting 5 lbs boost by 2500 and 15 by 4000. Runs like a new car like to start to turn the pump up.
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2010, 10:39 AM
Tymbrymi's Avatar
Klatta Klatta
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Olive Branch, MS
Posts: 616
Awesome work and thanks for posting! I'm surprised nobody has responded yet...

Where did you get the header flange from? Also, what fittings did you use for the turbo drain line?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95e300dwez View Post
getting 5 lbs boost by 2500 and 15 by 4000.
Is this driving the car down the road? I think the stock turbo for the OM603 in my '87 300TD is EXTREMELY small on the turbine side. I get 11 PSI of boost in park at 5100RPM!!! In second gear, going to 5100RPM, letting off throttle it is 9 PSI at 4500RPM. That's crazy the turbo spools that quick. I can only imagine what the backpressure is. This is also with a straight pipe exhaust ending at the end of the transmission.

BTW, Get that green coolant out of there and put the proper stuff in!
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'05 E320 CDI - 240k
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2010, 12:05 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
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Location: Boise ID
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Yeah I machined the header flange myself I am a journeyman tool and die maker I welded the header and exhaust. The boost is alright while driving it I get 5 psi by 2500 and 15 at 4000 to 4500 so I only have it for a 1000 rpms but she really pulls. Free revving to 4500 in park I can only about 5-6 psi. Driving at 70 I get about 6 psi and she pulls allot better on the hills here in Portland nice big grades to check the torque. I still need to install egt gauge so I can start turning up the pump. Thanks for the tip on the coolant first merc. didn't know there was a diff.
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2010, 01:16 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
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15psi on a na engine is almost certainly asking for trouble. Would like to see how long it lasts. Decent looking exhaust mani, powder coated?
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  #7  
Old 03-25-2010, 04:54 PM
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Well the start mileage is 22400 I think it should hold together jemmu said the internals are good for 300 hp. The exhaust is just high temp painted the whole exhaust to hide it under the car will get some video of it running.
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  #8  
Old 03-25-2010, 05:43 PM
Tymbrymi's Avatar
Klatta Klatta
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Olive Branch, MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95e300dwez View Post
Yeah I machined the header flange myself I am a journeyman tool and die maker I welded the header and exhaust. The boost is alright while driving it I get 5 psi by 2500 and 15 at 4000 to 4500 so I only have it for a 1000 rpms but she really pulls. Free revving to 4500 in park I can only about 5-6 psi. Driving at 70 I get about 6 psi and she pulls allot better on the hills here in Portland nice big grades to check the torque.
Very interesting!! I'm glad someone has installed one of these... The boost numbers are interesting, and I can't wait to see how quick it spools with the pump turned up.

Would you be interested in selling the flanges and the oval cones?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95e300dwez View Post
Thanks for the tip on the coolant first merc. didn't know there was a diff.
No prob! The proper stuff is either from the dealer ($20/gallon) or Zerex G-05. The only place I know of to get the Zerex is at NAPA... Unfortunately you have to order a whole case of six if they don't have it in stock ($10/gallon). That isn't a big deal for me since I have lots of MB's... dunno if it is for you or not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95e300dwez View Post
Well the start mileage is 22400 I think it should hold together jemmu said the internals are good for 300 hp.
I would just keep your EGTs a little lower than what the turbo engine can handle and you should be fine. That's My $.02 anyway!
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2010, 06:44 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
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Location: Boise ID
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Header building

I have to look into making the flanges I made them when I was deployed and had axes to a machine shop.I have a friend with a shop see what he will charge for the use. I can get the transition cones but they are not perfect require some work to fit. I think the transitions cost 12 each.
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  #10  
Old 03-25-2010, 09:37 PM
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Location: Boca Raton / NYC
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So this was a non turbo engine that you added a turbo to! Do let the purists hear that. I think it was still mechanical injection in 95, not computer controlled, Right? What did you do for fuel enrichment? How different are the engine internals from the factory turbo models? are you monitoring the egt? how hot does it get? pre turbo or post?

Now the HX35 is a bit on the big side, but there is a way you could get it to spool faster, much faster, since the turbine housing is split. you would need to make a valve, that flips at a certain pressure. If you feed the exhaust pressure / gasses from the second bank of cylinders along with the first bank into the turbine inlet for the first bank, there will be a night and day difference. then at a certain boost level, maybe 7psi , the valve will then send the exhaust gasses / pressure from the second bank of cylinders to the back side of the turbine. kind of a wastegate before the turbine.

This is for a log manifold (Same concept) :


It feeds all the pressure into the front half of the turbine to make it spool faster
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2010, 12:26 AM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
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Yes 95 606 is still mechanical injection so I have not messed with the injection yet have to install egt and wrap the exhaust manifold first. The Fins say it has the oil squirters I know about the pistons and the rods but I am not in search of huge horse power. I talked to a diesel shop here in Portland and they said the Ford banks kit for the early diesel would cause piston skirt scraping. I saw those valves on a turbo forum I could make it for nothing but I wanted to keep the engine divided as far as exhaust pulse goes. I went with the same idea banks uses for the Cummings since we have the same firing order. I have done allot of research on this build I will be adding a air to water intercooler to replace the crossover tube will look almost stock trying to make it that way.
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2010, 12:23 PM
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Location: Boca Raton / NYC
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wow, the non turbo block has the oil squirters! thats a great thing, but why? Let us know what you end up doing for fuel, thats the key, other wise you are not making much more power. You might not be looking for big power, but your turbo sure suggests you are! I understand what you mean about the split pulse manifold, I have used that method for years on non M/B gas engines.
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2010, 03:22 PM
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Klatta Klatta
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Olive Branch, MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARINUTS View Post
Wow, the non turbo block has the oil squirters! thats a great thing, but why?
The oil squirters are necessary for keeping the piston temperature under control. If the piston temp gets too high cylinder scuffing, increased ring wear, increased blow by, etc occur. On the NA 606, the oil squirters simply squirt oil to the underside of a "normal" diesel piston. On the turbo 606 the oil is squirted into a "cooling galley" (AKA chamber) inside the piston. The oil is sloshed around by the movement of the piston, which increases the heat transfer into the oil.

Long story short, the NA 606 has squirters, but the turbo 606 has squirters and pistons with oil galleys.

I think the NA has weaker rods as well... I'm sure there are other things, but all I know about are the oil squirters.
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  #14  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:02 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
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Location: Boise ID
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Call me crazy

Yeah the na606 has the weaker rods and pistons. I think the hp goals should be safe for this motor the oil jets help not a big issue as long as you don't do long hill pulls . Also I might look into putting a small shot of propane on it once the stock pump is turned up sort of a kick in the butt to get it spooling faster.
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  #15  
Old 04-08-2010, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tymbrymi View Post
I think the stock turbo for the OM603 in my '87 300TD is EXTREMELY small on the turbine side. I get 11 PSI of boost in park at 5100RPM!!! In second gear, going to 5100RPM, letting off throttle it is 9 PSI at 4500RPM. That's crazy the turbo spools that quick. I can only imagine what the backpressure is.
That doesn't sound right... my '87 300D with stock turbo doesn't build any boost in park at any RPM, AFAIK. Sounds like you might have something else going on there...?


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