Sure. Just on iPhone now. Gotta make a link... Processing...

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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed.
1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver.
1977 U1000 Unimog
2007 Ram 2500 6.7l

Actually Dave will probably post them side by side on his "website"

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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed.
1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver.
1977 U1000 Unimog
2007 Ram 2500 6.7l

I'd be curious to know when you re check it. With the extra boost you are forcing, and the extra few hundred RPM's, that has to get out quick or the temps will rise fast.

How do you check that anyway??

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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on...

There is a test port on the manifold. Happens to be the same thread as my EGT sensor.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

The test port on the manifold will measure backpressure pre-turbo. I'm using this port for my EGT gauge probe though.

To measure backpressure downstream, you drill a hole in the exhaust, add a crimp-in-place threaded bung, and attach the gauge. When done testing you plug the hole by inserting a screw with a sealing washer. The gauges are pretty cheap on eBay. You want something that will register low pressure, really good ones are expensive as they'll have maybe 5-7psi at the top of the range. You're looking for low single digits, a good system will have 1psi or less at WOT under load. If I saw 3psi or more then I'd probably look into exhaust mods. This test is more commonly used to check for plugged cats on gassers, where the hole is drilled pre-cat.

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No, not yet. The ALDA tamper seal is in place and I was hoping not to mess with it. There were no (none, zero, nada) shims under the ALDA so I couldn't pull any out either. I recall they said on the bench that the ALDA was adding full fuel by 5psi, and I think that may be too early. I might pop a different ALDA on there that already has the seal removed and try to lean it out a bit. But what I can't tell is if when there is no boost, is the ALDA already cutting fuel as much as possible (i.e., is the ALDA control rod already down as far as possible). If so, then it may need some minor tweaks elsewhere. When I rev the engine in park (no boost) it will blow a decent puff of black smoke. I should get a video of that too...

Maybe concentrate on getting the IAT down and then see what you get for smoke? So the ALDA spec is out the window as compared to the Bosch spec for fuel delivery right? I want as little smoke as possible myself but I don't race like you either. Race an SDL ha! I just want the nice roll on for the freeway cruising and little smoke in town.

I am on call this week

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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed.
1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver.
1977 U1000 Unimog
2007 Ram 2500 6.7l

I have my project running, but it is late so the test-drive will have to wait for tomorrow.

Running in the driveway it's tough to say how it'll go, as the tires light up around 2000rpm so I can't get much data from the EGT or boost. Tomorrow I can get out on the road and get a load on the engine at good road speeds.

There is a lot of smoke even in park when I punch the pedal, can run the RPMs up to 3000, then punch it, and still get a black puff. Not tractor-puller smoke, but more than I'd like from a Mercedes, and it makes me suspect that the EGTs might spoil the party tomorrow.

I also went 2-turns CCW on the max. RPM / high-idle setting, which should have moved the 4650rpm no-load max. up 600rpm to 5250rpm. Instead, it seems that I'm only seeing 5050rpm no-load, so the governor will probably be limiting my high-end fuel, I thought that going an extra 100rpm would have put me higher than I need to be, but tolerances being what they are, ...

I increased the full-load fuel 1turn, ALDA CCW 1 turn, wastegate should give me around 18.5psi (20psi on the bench), straight-pipe where the cat was, inclined-injection head. This is an IP from my '91 350SDL.

On the good, I didn't mess with the torque capsule as I assume that the 3.5L fuel delivery curve is much heavier at lower RPM to support the torque curve that it develops. With the rich punch it's giving, I seem to have gasser-fast throttle delivery, even under load against the brake. If the IP swap gives me nothing else, the off-boost punch will be nice.

I also feel that I hear the 3.5L / Garrett T-30 .55 turbo a bit more than with the old KKK, but that might also be due to the elimination of the AFM under the air-filter system, I'm not sure.

A little daylight and I'll see what kind of a mess I have created.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Congrats Jeff. I am thinking about a trans oil temp guage

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1986 300 SDL - rolling parts car and test bed.
1987 300 SDL - semi daily driver.
1977 U1000 Unimog
2007 Ram 2500 6.7l

I'd like a trans oil temp gauge also. I filled this time with Mobil 1 ATF, I have found that in (retarder-equipped) my larger transmissions the higher thermal-transmissivity of the synthetic fluid makes the transmission run cooler. I have also used Castrol's synthetic ATF in my big ZF for the same reason, but don't currently have a source (was also sold as Allison Transynd).

A trans-temp gauge, engine oil temp gauge, IAT, and voltmeter are wants, but I'm running out of space.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Sounds similar to what I have.



Uh, did you mean CCW or CW? When the full load is turned up, you generally need to lean out the ALDA by turning the screw CW. This might account for some of the smoke you're seeing.




And this is also partly why you're seeing the smoke, even with 5.5mm elements. I'm still not convinced that the 3.5L pump is ideal for the 3.0 engine for this reason. Too much fuel down low, not enough up top. With 6mm elements in a 3.5 pump the problem may be even worse. (??) Ideally, it would be nice to build a 3.5L engine with a 6mm (or larger!) pump... I bet that would make some killer off-idle power...

The smoke I'm getting is at low RPM's before boost builds, so IAT's are already very low when it's smoking. IAT's climb like crazy when boost is above 20psi - no smoke though.



I'm not sure about that. I think the Bosch spec shows something more like 10-12psi? I'd have to look at the spec sheets again. If stock spec has full fuel at 5psi (~40% of max boost) we might want to tweak that upwards when running higher peak boost.



If that's what you're looking for, you'll definitely get it. The midrange roll-on power is addictive.

I'm addicted to tire-spinning off-idle acceleration, kind of tired of the lag-boost acceleration in mid-range, so I'll live with a little smoke.

I am having problems getting above 4700rpm, so my timed runs are pretty much useless. I have to lift my foot to get it to shift into 3rd.

It is pulling strong, have only ALDA smoke which is completely avoidable by pressing the pedal down instead of just stomping on it, but what great off-the-line pep! Other than a puff from initial stomp I have no visible smoke, which makes me happy.

I'm hitting the wastegate at 3000rpm / 18psi which is what I wanted, only able to tap on 1200* if climbing which is acceptable. Idle seemed a bit loud at first which I was expecting with the 13.5* timing, but now seems normal so I guess it was just getting the air out of the injector lines.

I'll have to look at my linkage again, find out why I'm limited to 4700rpm, and give it another go.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

That's Awesome Jeff! It's cool to see the combination of parts and thoughtful engineering to make a quicker car! Keep tweaking it and posting. Love it!!

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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on...

Thanks, and I hope to get my car to look as nice as yours also, have the cladding, hood, bumpers, etc but haven't had the time to get it all installed and painted.

Ultimately Dave is doing it the way I'd like to, with the 6mm (or 7mm) elements. I am keeping my original IP on the shelf for this modification eventually. Dave's trial is indicating that the 6mm is an excellent "stage 1" choice for a daily driver.

Fortunately Dave has been going about his mods with taking notes and measurements, I wish there were a chassis-dyno near here so that I could get something instrumented other than just timed runs. His data is extremely useful to me for my future plans, as larger elements are IMO a requirement for giving the car more guts without making a mess at the tailpipe.

It has showed me that the 6mm elements are probably maximum for the engine without an aftercooler, and that the turbo I'm using is adequate also without an aftercooler. An excellent option if you have access to 6mm elements and a .55 trim turbo.

If you need to buy elements and spend the $$ to have a pump set up however, it seems that the cost would be the same for 7mm elements if you're ever going to install an aftercooler. It seems that the small jump to 6mm elements like Dave has done is a great driveable solution, as the Cruise Control will probably not be too aggressive and fuel control is probably still pretty efficient at low flow rates (typical highway cruising) and thus fuel mileage won't be hurt. The 7mm might pretty much make the factory CC useless and I'd expect that the fuel mileage (as well as idle) will deteriorate a bit.

So thanks, and I'm enjoying participating in this thread, even though it is really more of Dave's project that interests me and I feel that I'm offering a useful comparison to 5.5mm elements if I can ever get to a dyno.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff