617 Power

[ColLonewolf]

So in the experts opinion, precisely what is the optimal setup for power on the 617?

Let us be very specific.

[Simpler=Better]

Is everything properly in-tune? (timing chain stretch, injector pop/spray, valves, wastegate pressure etc?)

You can advance the timing to 26*
Adjust or remove the ALDA
Install a pyrometer
Then play with the adjustments inside the pump
Porting manifolds (small gain, but a gain...)
Add an intercooler (no power, but gives you room for more fuel)
Add water-methanol injection

More in-depth:
Reaming prechambers
Adding a variable vane turbo
Larger pump elements ($1,500) and a larger turbo (~$500)
Ported head, larger valves
Stronger rods

A little racecar-ey:
Removing the power steering, AC, vac pump
Battery in the trunk
Stripping nonessential parts for weight reduction

[ColLonewolf]

What will all this magic get you on the horse power/torque scale?

[Simpler=Better]

Hard numbers are few and far between, I *believe* the best actual dyno sheet that has been produced was like 125hp/ 250tq.

Best $$ per smile ratio? A cheap VNT. My setup ran around $250 said and done, and gave me nearly instant full boost.

[47dodge]

125hp? I have seen 245hp for the 616 so 617a must do better. thought 125 was stock hp? You are right there are few good numbers.

[Simpler=Better]

One day I'll get a dyno run...the school back home does dyno runs for around $100 every now and then

[moon161]

IIRC 125 is stock turbo 617.

Quite a bit more on this one.
world's fastest diesel mercedes w123 300d - YouTube

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by moon161

IIRC 125 is stock turbo 617.

Quite a bit more on this one.
world's fastest diesel mercedes w123 300d - YouTube

Ah yep that guy :

[SpecialDelivery]

Simpler=Better, what can you tell me about porting my manifolds? I have a OM617 for which I've acquired a set of non egr manifolds and a non arv turbo, off an OM617 in a W116. I read these flow more air than the egr ones and I've looked into modding the coupler (no clocking needed yet. They've been blasted and painted and get baked in the oven tomorrow. I didn't want to spring the $ for jet hot or powder coating them at this stage, however since they're off the car...I heard porting the head itself wont give you much of a result, but what do you suggest doing to the manifolds themselves?

[Simpler=Better]

You're not going to get the world in performance-IIRC, porting the head and manifolds has only gotten people something like 5hp.

But while it's off.....why not? The easiest method is to trace the gasket's openings onto the manifolds, and then match the port size with a dremel, keeping in mind that you're trying to shape an easily-flowing path for the gases to move through. On my exhaust manifold there were some serious irregularities.

For the intake, match the head side as well, but also add a fillet to the connecting tube and the manifold-others have tested a filleted vs sharp and found gains in CFM (granted other parts will limit you later one)

Does porting make a difference? es. If it enough of a difference to warrant your time spent? That's up to you

[SpecialDelivery]

Thanks for the advise on the manifolds....I"ll check em out. what do you mean when you say add a filet to the connecting tube?

[Simpler=Better]

Any transition that isn't mated flat should have this done to it:

The turbo->manifold connection




You might get something transitioning the turbo's exhaust inlet...depends on the model and casting quality. My 2056V had an inlet 1/4" smaller than the gasket, so I transitioned it to match.

[SpecialDelivery]

Head is at the guys shop...he's also a MB driver (gasser) he's making sweet machinist time with the head, three way valve job, prechambers...wait till you see it

[47dodge]

pre chambers can go at least .010" larger on all burn holes, since you are working on head stuff. I did leave the tiny one on the bottom alone on mine.

[SpecialDelivery]

What do you guys think of the head gasket, I read that I should coat it three times w copper gasket spray.