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  #61  
Old 06-19-2020, 03:20 AM
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So bummed out. The om606 was gone. Only there 3 days. Oh well. The positive is i got some other stuff cheap for other projects. The car towed beautifully there and back 1:45 each way. Rear was a bit low full loaded with a diesel om616 on the trailer. Got a little warm if I tried to stay over 70 on the hills. I just did the leaky delivery valves tonight and it's running even better. I'm gonna get the diesel pump UK pump and run it on about a 250hp or so tune to try to keep it and the 717.668 trans together for awhile. I think it will be plenty to keep me grinning fir awhile. Its already so much faster than the 300sd and even though it's super soft it still handles great. I was pushing it hard through my favorite twisties with most of my tools riding on the passenger floor and a lawnmower in the trunk. Was right on some guys tail in a Mitsubishi Galant.

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  #62  
Old 06-19-2020, 12:24 PM
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If you want to firm up the ass end, install the W116 rear springs. They're a firmer rate and will put a definitive stop to the ass-sag. Improves the handling a bit too, especially on hilly or humpy roads.
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  #63  
Old 06-23-2020, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
If you want to firm up the ass end, install the W116 rear springs. They're a firmer rate and will put a definitive stop to the ass-sag. Improves the handling a bit too, especially on hilly or humpy roads.
Thats not a bad idea. Unfortunately the only set of 116 springs I have are in a car. I'll probably just make some nylon blocks like I run in my drift car. Haven't had any issues with them so far. I can make them different heights as well. Three of them spaced evenly takes a coil out of the spring basically which increases the rate. If i make them as high as when the wheels are at full droop the spring actually becomes taller, or if I make the the thickness between the coils at ride height it just increases the rate as it compresses. I've got one coil in the rear cut then two sets of blocks (SLC rear suspension is basically identical to w126). Its way stiffer but really still comfortable. I've got 3/4" thick nylon stock I cut into strips and drill two 5/8" holes, cut them at the center of the hole and they snap into the coils. I haven't had one move or fall out yet.

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  #64  
Old 06-23-2020, 10:05 PM
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I towed the 450slc drift car on the dolly,, most of my tools, 5 spare pairs of wheels and tires and myself 2.5 hours into the Poconos Saturday. Figure about 4000+ lbs. Bone stock 87 300sdl (beside custom hitch) with 252,000 plus a ****load probably since the odometer is beat. It does great on flat ground and minor hills but it starts getting hot on long medium grades. It was pretty warm out but not too bad. I ran the heat on defrost most of the way. Twice it got up to the last line before a small gap then red mark. I guess about 250f or so. Doesn't seem to have pushed any coolant out or any long term issue I hope. It came right back down as soon as it crested the hill. I'm going to do a coolant flush and cleanse since there is some oil in the coolant from when I bought it, supposedly poured in by accident, idk, it's pretty black. That can't hurt. Make sure it doesn't have a bunch of crap in the condenser blocking air flow, I don't think it's got anything to do with the fan cause we're talking at least 50mph. My friend said that opening up the exhaust is really helpful with cooling on the Cummins 12v in his truck so I'll be looking into that as well. Also adding the propane injection and pyrometer possibly water injection as well. Propane will decrease egts but I'm not sure it's that or just strain induced heat. I've found an all aluminum radiator for the sdl also. Its claimed to be an exact copy of a factory option radiator. Anyone ever heard of/used one? There are a few places selling them. Other than the heat and maybe a little shy on power it tows great. 75mph on flat ground super stable.

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  #65  
Old 09-20-2020, 07:21 PM
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Update on this saga. The motor got hurt overheating the week after my last post while not towing. Turns out it was the fan clutch. It still runs and drives fine but it's overpressurizing the cooling system. With a solid fan drive made there are no cooling issues. I towed it to another event yesterday and it was ok but it did end up pushing water out at high load. The great news is that I got a om 606, and 716.668 6 speed manual trans and an om603 mechanical pump which is going to diesel pump UK to be built for the car. It's getting air shocks and a 3.46 LSD v8 diff as well. Should be a fun and very usefull shop car/truck. It has so much room inside. I brought 5 pairs of mounted wheels abd tires in the back seat area. My tools rode on the passenger floor and there was tons of spare room in the trunk.

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  #66  
Old 01-12-2021, 07:34 PM
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Dead and rusted. Om603 is wasted, it was hurt and I pushed it hard to see how the pyrometer was working. 600+C° not good it seems. Broken ring or piston. It still runs but it's spewing out of any where it can, lots of oil some water too. I was preparing to put the om606 and 6 speed in it but once on the lift I just can't justify the time and effort on this car. It's really a mess. Rust holding hands. This car is donating it's front suspension and all brand new brakes and parts of its rear subframe to my w123 wagon build I'm going forward with now. I may revisit this truck thread if another car comes along that suits it but it's on hold. Going to start a build thread on the wagon since it's A LOT of mods and custom work planned out already.

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  #67  
Old 02-08-2021, 12:45 AM
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So the original 300SD this thread was about is on my lift with a very serious rod knock. I picked up a replacement om617 at the pick a part junk yard from a very nice looking 83 300sd that had some strange front rocker and inner fender damage. Not sure if it was yard induced damage or why the car was there. No info on a vin search from auctions or municipal towing so it was a total crap shoot. Got 5 good compression hits hand spinning it so said f-it I'll take my chances. got it fired up last night strapped to a pallet. Seems very healthy. I'm going to turn up the fuel while it's out and set the timing and valves. Also going to check the auto flywheel balance and the 240d manual balance since it's getting 4 speed manual swapped while it's all out. Just lucked into a 280slc rear drives shaft and a 300se front driveshaft working out to be the correct length. The center bearing mount needs to be relocated forward about 6 inches but otherwise will be all stock parts.

https://youtu.be/R2c1TJtV0YQ

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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
BirchsgarageMB@gmail.com

Last edited by rwd4evr; 02-08-2021 at 02:06 PM.
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  #68  
Old 02-09-2021, 12:58 AM
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Woo hoo! Successfully dug further into a Mercedes diesel than I ever have. Opened up the injection pump and cranked the fuel screw all the way in. Readjusted the throttle stop and shutoff and reinstalled the oil filter housing. Happy to say the engine fired right up after and didn't run away or anything like that. Truthfully there is a little part of me that wishes I got the chance to see how much better the car is with just a stock motor and a manual.... But I don't imagine its an earth changing power upgrade just turning the fuel screw.
New center bearing coming Wednesday and taking the flywheel to the machine shop to be match balanced tomorrow.

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  #69  
Old 02-10-2021, 06:20 AM
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Nice cars.
crank the pump
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  #70  
Old 02-10-2021, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike280 View Post
Nice cars.
crank the pump
It's cranked. I'm being advised to turn up the torque capsule 1-1.25 turns as well. I'm a little nervous about doing multiple things at once. Especially on a basically unknown engine. Sure it starts and seems to run fine but I really don't know what it's going to do under load at all.

https://youtu.be/R2c1TJtV0YQ

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  #71  
Old 02-10-2021, 02:09 PM
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Waiting on the flywheel. The 240d manual flywheel shows a .25Ooz imbalance on my wheel balancer. It's the smallest number so I don't know the exact number. The auto flywheel has a 35mm hole and I don't have a small enough mandrel so I don't know what it is. The 240d manual flywheel is getting resurfacing and match balanced to the auto imbalance. I'm building a clutch pedal to add to the auto pedal bracket which is identical to the manual besides an extension on the pedal axle which I'll turn on my lathe and run a bolt through the original hollow axle. I considered pressing it out and pressing a new one in but I don't think it's necessary. A 14mm bolt fits perfectly in the existing axle and is not going to bend or break with the stresses it sees. W123 pedal would bolt in with little issue but I need them for another car anyway. The w126 pedal I'm copying doesn't belong to me.

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  #72  
Old 02-11-2021, 01:38 AM
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More progress. Clutch pedal axle taken care of. I drilled the existing hollow brake pedal axle out to put a 10mm bolt through, and turned a sleeve to fit it and some 16mm bronze bushings I had from an exercise machine. Using the tube for the top of the pedal too. I got the 1/8" steel cut to shape for the pedal. It needs two bends and two studs installed plus the foot pad. It will also be gusseted with a plate on top from the bushing tube wrapped around the upper bend and down the face of the pedal. Probably Overkill but it will be getting some clutch kicks for sure.

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  #73  
Old 02-11-2021, 07:58 PM
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Picked up the flywheel today... Ouch. 285$ for the match balance and a resurfacing. It was pretty far off. 14g and 120° from the auto flywheel. Om616 being 4 and the 617 being 5 would make sense. So I guess it really is a good idea to have it done. Got my new centerbearing also. I'm aiming to have it driving in one week.

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  #74  
Old 02-14-2021, 04:10 AM
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Had a couple hours to work on the pedal today. Almost done. Have to add studs for the master pushrod and overcenter spring pushrod, a full release stop tab and a couple braces.

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  #75  
Old 02-17-2021, 06:41 AM
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Oh yeah! Didn't put a foot pedal on yet. I may get some aluminum ones so I'm waiting a minute. Also so close to out of welding gas it may run out mid weld. But all done otherwise. Super sturdy. Very happy with it.

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