I want to post this here first before going to Craigslist because some of you have voiced interest in owning a W108 with an American V8 and I want you folks to have first shot at this.........if you are interested. I did NOT do the mod. However, it is a professional installation. The car is in very good condition for a 48 year old car. Engine runs great. Auto Trans (Ford AOD) is good. Power Rack and Pinion steering. 3" straight pipe single exhaust, no mufflers. Custom headers join into the single exhaust. It is an AC car, BUT, the AC components are NOT installed under the hood. Under the dash is good. Column shifter. Sun roof (never been opened by me.) Both rear door interior caps (bolsters?) missing. Both rear door windows are inop due to the rubber strip that holds the glass to the winding mechanism has dried out and wont hold the glass anymore. Does not have power windows. The passenger side trim and trim below the trunk lid is not installed but it is in the trunk. I purchased the car a year ago from the owner who had the installation done. He needed the money and I was intrigued enough to jump. My problem with the car is the turning radius is to large. It has rack and pinion from a Topaz/Tempo? installed. My attempt to remedy the problem was to purchase two used hubs and have the steering arms professionally heated and bent. That did not cure the turning radius problem. I still have the original hubs. After a year of on/off discussion with various folks the general consensus is that the rack is not wide enough. The installed rack has two and 1/2 turns lock to lock. The rack just needs to be closer to the steering arms before it starts to turn. At least that is my opinion. I've just lost interest and want to move on plus I can't weld and I have a '71 250C, a '73 280C and a '83 280E euro. I'm just over committed. I see a lot of street rods/ hot rods/ rat rods with horrible turning radius. 6 point turns to park is pretty common. They don't seem to mind it. It's just part of a modified car. It's just not for me. I can't weld. So, if you are a good fabricator this is probably an easy fix. Lots and lots of pictures are available if you are interested. Hub caps do NOT go with the car. I'll give this a week.....then it goes to craigslist. $2500.00 if you are interested. I live in Las Vegas, NV.

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Charlie.

Pretty decent looking car. Prolly gets better fuel economy than it ever did with the benz motor.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The length of the rack should not matter. If its not positioned correctly front to back that would be a problem.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Length of rack has nothing to do with steering radius. 80's GM J bodies have inner tie rods that are 4" apart and steer just fine.

You need shorter steering arms not bent ones or a rack that moves farther per revolution of the steering wheel. ( Turns lock to lock is meaningless without knowing total rack displacement. )

The biggest issue with moving a rack / steering arm / linkage will be bump steer. ( Toe change as the wheels go up and down. ) This can be cured by moving the rack around.