You're right, those are exactly what I've used. I've used them on nearly all my lowered cars, because they do 2 things: 1. Raise up the supsension a bit by 5-10mm, I find most lowering springs are way too low, especially for speed bumps. 2. The also firm up the springs even more. Its such a cheap way of getting firmer suspension and you can adjust the oversteer/understeer by how many you put in front and rear.

About the camber, after lowering I had too much negative camber and the front tyres wore too much on the inner edge, I tried to dial back a bit more neutral camber but it did comprimise the handling a bit, then I tried some slight toe out, better steering response but difficult on straight roads (wandering). So now I've gone back to toe-in and played with tyre pressures. It handle even better with the back loaded up with passengers.
It takes a lot of nerve to throw the car into corners, I know the car can take it now but my nerve gives way long before. Its a big car to throw around.

The W124 wagon/estate has the exact same wheelbase, and is fairly close in chassis length and width of the W124 sedan (not including the 500E).

It's an illusion that it is bigger.

:-) neil
1988 E36T AMG
1993 500E

I realise that, just still think it not what most people would class as a sports car. Lot of weight if you get out of shape mid corner. Still I love it.

Umm...arent you supposed to match the SPRING RATE of the spring with the shock/strut? Assuming that is the case(which i'm positive it is), wouldn't this make cutting the springs pretty darn dumb? All you would be doing is reducing the amount of travel the spring is able to go, without really adjusting at all how much pressure it takes to compress it. Those two concepts seem counter-productive to me. The Whole point behind lowering a car aside from the aesthetic look is to increase the spring rate, we all know when you do that you need to get shocks/struts to be able to handle the increase in spring rate. Match your shocks with your springs, thats all i'm saying here. Don't just cut your springs, throw on a set of new shocks and think your car handles better, it doesn't. Its called suspension GEOMETRY for a reason, everything has a purpose, you can't put a cadillac and a ferrari's suspension together and expect to get good results.
Ryan

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83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

Hi, I tried to fit the Eibach 210 rear bar but the positioning of the height sensor is diffferent so the bar does not fit.

I assume you already tried adjusting the turnbuckle ?

If so, and there is not enough adjustment, then you have to adjust the position of the clamp around the swaybar.

:-) neil

If the shape of the bar is the same (both should be straight across), you may need to stretch the clamp or something due to the larger bar diameter, but as Neil said otherwise you should be able to adjust it with the turnbuckle per the factory procedure.

http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC2/Program/Chassis/40-0310.pdf


BTW, the 20mm rear sway bar is made by H&R as a W210 fitment, part number H&R HR-71724. It will not fit W124 models with a V8 due to the different (larger) subframe but it should fit all sedans and wagons, and probably the coupe & cabrio as well.

No guys the 210 bar as a kink right where the sls valve sits on the 124, it doesnt even allow the bar to sit in its RH bush bracket, trust me if I could of made fit I would of after struggling to get it in there!

Really? I would have sworn that somone else who installed it (Aaron?) said the bar was straight across, no kinks. Do you know what H&R part number you ordered? Or was it an Eibach bar? I on'y have confirmation of the H&R part number (HR-71724) being installed on a non-SLS W124 sedan successfully.

It was a Eibach bar, I just had a look under a 210 wagon even the standard bar isnt straight across the bar kicks out towards the rear then back in before the RH mount. The SLS valve is much further away from the roll bar centre line, maybe the sedan bar is straight and there would not be a problem if fitting to a non SLS car

Sounds like the issue may be that you tried a different bar. I know the H&R bar fits sedans, and should fit 6-cyl W124 sedans & wagons, with or without SLS. If/when I get the H&R bar myself, I'll take some photos of it and post to my website.

So did you try a 500 rear bar or are you just speculating? I have the sportline bars on my 300TE and still find there is too much body roll, I think the oversteer issue will be far worse with the tyre pressuresthat you are running! the E500 certainly doesnt suffer from oversteer with less rear end weight then the wagon.

hey guys, just wondering if anyone has the mercedes part number for the front limo bar. also wondering what bushings and brackets you guys are using with this bar. also wondering what bushings and brackets to use with 500e rear bar. thanks for the help!

The info you need is in the Excel spreadsheet (or PDF files) at this link:

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_sway_bars/

There's some photos there too.

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Talk about reviving an olde thread! Just wanted to thank everyone for all the info found in this thread that has helped with the final set up for my 94 124.092. My final decision has come to:

Sportline Front Struts - 124-320-35-30
Front/Rear Sportline Springs - 124-321-30-04/124-324-28-04
500E Rear Sway 124-326-25-65
Stock Rear Hydros
Stock Front Sway

Everything sitting on #1 Pads wearing 17x7.5et37 Titanium Evos w 225/45/17 PS2s.

For now I'm going to determine the handling characteristics of this set up before I swap out the front sways. Budget is restricting me from changing the rear hydros, but I'm hoping that with the sportline springs in combo with the 500E bar, the rear will keep in place in hard turns and keep oversteer to a minimum.

Everything is here for the installation except for the front struts which are coming from GmbH. Will post pics when everthing is put together!