This weekend I did a major assualt on engine mounting. So far all previous fit checks have been to establish engine positioning and alignment. With engine position established the subframe was completely modified to to be able to accept the original SL600 mounting brackets and mounts. I really wanted to use the original SL600 mounts as they are tuned to the engine. This required a significant lowering of the subframe cross section. The top portion of the SL600 cross member with the engine mount holes, was used as a template and temporarily welded in place. The engine and trans was re-fit checked and final adjustments were noted and will be installed. The fan is currently 1/8 inch from the radiator tank seam and will therefore be moved back an aditional 1/4". Engine fit checking has to be performed with weight on subframe to properly establish the hood clearance, as the engine will rise in relation to the hood with the weight on the subframe. I finally ended up with ~ 3/8" of hood clearance, which was too close for comfort to me. So my final changes to the sub frame will be an additional 3/8" lower, for a total of 3/4" engine to hood clearance.

A significant amount of strenght has been taken out by the reduced cross seaction of the subframe. Unfortunatly the end result will require a significantly heavier subframe to bring the strength back up to par.

I'm hoping to have final engine mounting completed in about a month. Then comes plumbing and of coures my favorite, wiring.

John Roncallo

While down in West Palm Beach Today for the Barret Jackson Auto Auction, I took the opertunity to Visit Renntech. I talked to a gentelmen Bob Brady about the project. We discussed what could be done with the computers from the SL600. He introduced me to one of his technichians. When I told him what I was doing, he politly made the sign of the cross.

Baiscally they were only able to confirm my theories of how this would have to be done. Sort of just like I thought, The ESP module has to be installed and at least talking to the wheel speed sensors. And turning off the ESP with the button will not overide that fact.

But they did give me a good tip for diabling the DAS, buy starting it once and then disconnecting the DAS module.

I was kind of hoping they would be able to sell me two computers that would have

A)Top speed limiter removed.
B) DAS disabled
C) ESP removed (only if I cant get things to work right)
D) Wired to work without mass flow sensors and use wide band O2 sensors

option D would be a real nice option if I ever decided to put a set of throttle bodies on with 12 velocity stacks sticking up through the hood.

One of the first thing I would like to do after getting this running is hack the transmission CAN bus protocols out of the computers, and then start experimenting with a MoTech unit.

John Roncallo

That's really funny.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Why are you set on using the original ECU's?
It seems like it's not worth the trouble, especially if your consulting the services of Renntech... $$$$ An LH injection system is not designed to run well with no mass air flow sensor even with the help of a wideband O2 sensor. BTW, If your worried about a bottle-neck in airflow at the sensor you could make a larger housing.

In my opinion, I wouldn't try to re-engineer the LH system to work. Besides, having 2 ECU's running one engine was a bad idea to begin with. I'd suggest moving to a single aftermarket programmable ECU. Being able to tune your engine would be worth it much less the frustration and possible cost of the old ECU's.

Now, I do agree that the trans communication is a problem. There are ways around that though. Trying to figure out the CAN bus is going to be a nightmere. I'd suggest dumping the trans controller and working with the solenoids that are being switched on and off. From here, build your own controller that works of the load and rpm signal from the ECU.
Tell me your thoughts.
Adam

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Current Stable:
01 ML55 AMG
92 500E (a few mods)
87 300E (lots of mods)
00 Chevy 3500HD Diesel Box Truck
68 18' Donzi Marine
06 GT i-Drive7 1.0 Mountain Bike (with GPS!)

PREVIOUSLY OWNED:83 300SD, 87 420SEL, 88 420SEL, 90 420SEL, 86 560SEL, 86 190E 2.3-16V AMG, 94 E320

This weekend I focused on the engine sadel mod for the subframe. The last subframe mods were made with a temporary sadel actually cut out of the 129. This was done to facilitate fitting of the engine. With the engine position now well established it is time to make the permanent mods to the subframe. The 129 does not use a subframe and therfore the engine saddel is much less robust as it only supports the engine.

First off the mods for the 107 subframe required a significant amount of material removal from the top surface of the main cross member. The subframe is made with 0.100" low carbon steel. Because I will have to make the cross section of this area a lot lower I elected to replace the material with 0.187" steel. Please note that just because I used thicker material the depth of the area is lower and the moment of inertia of this area is still significantly reduced making this area weeker that the original in bending. This is why I said that complete redesign of this subframe out of better materials may be required.

In any case I was faced with the problem of bending a 12" wide, 0.187" thick piece of sheet steel. To do this I made a die out of laminated 2"X6" lumber. Between using this die in a press as shown in the pictures and working it by hand I was able to bend the lowered area of the cross member. You will not the tooling is crude but effective, I still have a little bit of hand reworking on this part to get it right. The next step will be to bend the two flat pieces down to form the engine mount bases. This will be done by clamping the part between the two dies and heating along the edge where it comes out between the two dies, Then bending by hand. Yes I will have to work fast as the wood will catch fire. Each edge has to last one bend. If it doesent work, I will just have to spring for a press brake attachment for my press.

Stay Tuned
John Roncallo

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Pleasure to read

How much more does the M120 weigh vs the M117? You may need stronger front springs. Maybe even putting the battery in the trunk to try to get some weight out back?

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

The M120/722.6 engine and trans combination weigh 185 Lb more than the Alloy M117/722.3 engine and trans combination. See my post under engine weights. The subframe modification added and additional 17Lb. I'm estimating a 215Lb delta when complete. Accouding to my calculations this will lower the front ~ 17mm. By using early 450SLC springs I estimate I could recover about 13mm of that. The battery on the 560SL is already in the trunk. Lets see what happens with the stock springs first. I may want to keep it low and lower the back or go with bigger tires up front, since I will be staggered widths anyway.

John Roncallo

Does H&R offer anything for that car? I know they made spring kits for the W126. Dropped the car a bit and they are more stiff.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

ingenious.

you are a wild man.

you are going to get it done.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.