I'm running a 190E 2.6 radiator with the electrical cooling fan from the 2.5-16v AC, however I'm using a different temp sensor (95/90 from memory) to turn on the fan. These days the weather has been pretty hot here also 34-38C, fan only turns on when I'm stationary at a stop light for a short peroid of time.

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

Haven't updated in a while, during this time I made some changes to the cars setup. I switched from a HALL sensor to a VR sensor setup since I had issues with revving over 6400rpm. Tried all sorts of staff to solve the problem while keeping the HALL sensor but nothing work, switch to the VR and now I rev to 7000rpm (current rev limiter) without any problems. Last week I had one to the three ignition module channels fail (burnedout) which left me running on 4 cylinders. Turned out the Audi module that I used has no thermal shutdown. Looking for a better solution I ended up using Bosch BIP373 modules ( http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit-p-230.html ) , they are similar to the VB-s but have current limiting and thermal shutdown protection. After making these changes I rechecked and set the ignition timing using a timing gun. Turned out my trigger was one tooth off . After setting it correctly I began having detonation issues ~4500rpm (TQ peak) and 0.6bar (~8.7psi) boost, so I retarded the table with 5 degrees in that region. Here is the ignition map (tested on 95H euro gas) I'm using now, there is no detonation and the car runs very well.

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

Wow Joreto!

You're definitely a man with a lot of patience.

I read this and think this is not an undertaking for someone who is easily frustrated.

I'm glad to see it's all getting sorted out & you can finally just drive & enjoy the car.

Thanks ! With those final changes the car is all sorted out and I've been using it as a daily driver for quite some time now (my other car that was the daily driver broke down). I've decided to leave it at 0.6bar (8.7psi) till I get my other car repaired , than I may up the boost to ~ 1 bar and hopefully get it dynoed

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

Finally did a 1/4 mile measurment of the car with this engine, unfortunatly I was able to do only one run.

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

Are you spinning the tires? That 60' is horrible. You should be around 13.2 or so with a decent 60. Looks like it is pulling ok though. Have you tried more boost yet? I know that that motor starts to detonate at around the psi you are running on 93 octane. A couple step colder plugs and some race gas or e85 and you could get some more out of it. It is always fun to see what you run in street trim though.
I was curious what intake temps are you getting on a 1/4 mile run. I Normally start off around 30c and end near 40c on a 26-27c ambient temps.

hmm x2 & 1/4 time's not real flash How much spin if any did it have & when did it grip Joreto?

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um.....why have men got nipples

I get wheel spin through the whole of 1-st gear (starts spinning when the boost kicks in) and part of 2-nd. Getting good 60' is a big problem with this car and street tires (@36 psi, lowering the pressure would give me better 60'). Also I launch at pretty low rpm ~2000 - 2500 since I get a lot of wheel hop if I launch harder i.e. higher rpm. Personally I was more interested in the terminal speed at the end of the 1/4 mile run (the real indication of the cars power), but it also seems a bit low (~104.39 mph). I'm thinking of upping the boost this coming Saturday (have to install the boost solenoid), will be aiming at around 1 bar but might end up running less if I have to pull too much timing. Even at this low boost level the timing is retarded to 12 degs at TQ peak (running 95 euro, could get away with a bit more if I run 100 euro).
As to intake temps, at the start of the run the temp is 20C and at the end it's 27C, ambient temperature was 8C.

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

The when your 60' is that bad it effects your trap speed. The back half gain will tell you more. 82.6mph to 104 mph. That is a 22mph gain. I see a 26mph gain on the back half. The cadillac cts-v that I ran gained 24mph on the back half.
Like I said a good 60' and you would run in the low 13.-- and should be trapping near 108-110.
Can you do boost per gear? This is a good way to control your car. Only run the amount of boost in that the car can hold in that gear.

Didn't know about the back half gain, thanks ! Looks like it's not as bad as I thought (22 vs 24 vs 26 mph), with a bit more tuning I may improve the back half gain even at this boost level (car is a bit rich in the higher rpms). Unfortunately the MS I'm using doesn't have gear dependent boost control, however it has the option to switch between 2 boost tables. With a little head scratching I might come up with a way to switch between them (gear dependent switch) and say use less boost in 1-2nd then switch to the high boost table for 3-4-5 gear .

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

A simple contact switch in the shift mechanism would do it. You could also try to use the traction control function in MS2.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

tjts1, that's exactly what I was thinking, just need some free time to implement it. I'm also contemplating using MS traction control but the one that uses the wheel speed sensors and allows for different slip settings (must build a circuit). The harder part will be fixing the wheel hop, looks like I'll have to start by changing the rear bushings. Anyway, my next goal is to improve the cars 60ft time and getting into the mid 13 sec in the 1/4mile with the current setup (on street tires).

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

For the wheel hop. The best things you can do is engine mounts, then differential and subframe mounts. It is the windup in the whole drivetrain and the release that causes most of it. It is just like a front wheel drive car. I had solid engine mounts and finally got sick of it and did the old urethane in stock mounts thing to soften it up a little and I actually got a little hop back. I am going to switch to stock mounts and torque arms in the future.

Well Joreto, you definitely need to sort this crap out man! That would crap me right off......incidentally, I'm not looking forward to all this power on the stock 300E diff haha but I don't have access to a LSD or similar in Merc language down here........I'm dealing with OS freight charges all over the place now as it is damn it

Why? I woulda thought the hard mounts or poly mounts at least would have stopped the hop & given better powertrain response? I am contemplating getting poly engine mounts amongst other things such as bushes etc @ moment while I await these friggin parts form Scandinavia

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um.....why have men got nipples

I am going to have torque arms on the motor. I want to try just two but I might do 3.
I want to control the motor but have it sit on soft mounts.