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  #436  
Old 01-30-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joreto View Post
Thanks Ed, the car is finally beginning to feel like a fast car :-D . I'm planning to modify the down pipe which in my opinion should lower the back pressure even more, but that'll come after the gearbox is rebuilt. Plan is to have the car in top condition for the open drag day in May, aim is to get into the mid 12 secs at the strip in street trim .
"Feel like"....it is a fast car !!!!

When you mod the downpipe weld a cutout in it...
For track open the downpipe cutout and you have zero backpressure for the turbo to work against....

Not sure if you have them but if not install front and rear upper strut/shock tower braces.

It will stiffen the chassis up and keep the rear shocks square to each other reducing anti-squat and possibly eliminate some of the wheel hop.

My front bar is a Sparco made for the 124 and rear is a modified Camry front bar...







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  #437  
Old 01-31-2013, 03:20 AM
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Whipplem, RBYCC, thanks for the replies . I have opted to rebuild my transmission since in my opinion only the bearings are damaged (gearbox not opened yet), meanwhile I might get a replacement one from an 260E or 300E (717.430,717.433) so I can drive the car while I rebuild and if necessary strengthen the current gearbox.

Whipplem104, I'll be changing the rear subframe mounts with stiffer ones. As to the engine I think I'll first try the mod that was posted a while ago on this forum (can't find it now), it used a shock/damper between the body and the engine to reduce engine "roll" on acceleration.

RBYCC, the struts are on my to do list, I've already order the rear strut bar (waiting delivery)

P.S. Looks like I've got the power, just have to put it better to the ground in the lower gears
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #438  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joreto View Post
Whipplem, RBYCC, thanks for the replies . I have opted to rebuild my transmission since in my opinion only the bearings are damaged (gearbox not opened yet), meanwhile I might get a replacement one from an 260E or 300E (717.430,717.433) so I can drive the car while I rebuild and if necessary strengthen the current gearbox.

Whipplem104, I'll be changing the rear subframe mounts with stiffer ones. As to the engine I think I'll first try the mod that was posted a while ago on this forum (can't find it now), it used a shock/damper between the body and the engine to reduce engine "roll" on acceleration.

RBYCC, the struts are on my to do list, I've already order the rear strut bar (waiting delivery)

P.S. Looks like I've got the power, just have to put it better to the ground in the lower gears
Putting it to the ground is the tough part!!!

If you're hopping side to side, it's because the tire is acting like a spring and bouncing losing and regaining traction.

Many, many, many years ago on drag only cars we used to preload the right rear suspension using air shocks...

You can't use an air shock on your car but an inexpensive potential fix may be installing a Coil-rite or Air Lift .
Air Lift 1000 Load Assist Rear Spring Kits 60769 - SummitRacing.com

Nothing made specifically for the Merc so you'll have to get the rear coil ID and compressed length and see what will work.

Install inside the coil and pump up as needed....deflated you don't know they are on...

Whipple's suggestion on motor mounts will also help as will securing the front of the engine to the chassis with a flat steel bar or the shock torque damper that you mentioned...
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1988 300CE TWIN TURBO WIDEBODY
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1999 C43 AMG
2005 G55K AMG
2008 CLK63 AMG BLACK SERIES
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  #439  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whipplem104 View Post
I was thinking one mostly up and down for torque and one mostly side to side. Also want the extra bolt down locations.
Some Mercedes diesels supposedly used a small shock in addition to the regular mounts.

Take a look at a GM front drive from the 80's 90's, there is a upper dog bone mount that might be good to use. There was also an aftermarket spring loaded shock that would fit the bill.

Torque reaction is the only real issue to overcome, take a look at some drag race parts that alow the motor to float but when it torques over a bit, it locks solid. ( the old way was to use a chain from the left head to the frame. )

Given the configuration of our mounts, take a look at a " Lord Rubber " catalog, there are industrial mounts that would be stiffer and easy to install. ( they look like body mounts on a frame based car. )
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  #440  
Old 01-31-2013, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBYCC View Post
"Feel like"....it is a fast car !!!!

When you mod the downpipe weld a cutout in it...
For track open the downpipe cutout and you have zero backpressure for the turbo to work against....

Not sure if you have them but if not install front and rear upper strut/shock tower braces.

It will stiffen the chassis up and keep the rear shocks square to each other reducing anti-squat and possibly eliminate some of the wheel hop.

My front bar is a Sparco made for the 124 and rear is a modified Camry front bar...

Did you ever post any info about making the rear bar? What year camry is the bar designed for? Any pictures from modifying it?

Also, is the front bar still in production? There was someone on eBay selling front bars for W124s but I can't find them anymore.
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  #441  
Old 02-01-2013, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
Did you ever post any info about making the rear bar? What year camry is the bar designed for? Any pictures from modifying it?

Also, is the front bar still in production? There was someone on eBay selling front bars for W124s but I can't find them anymore.
Sparco may still have the front bar in production.
I purchased mine in June 2010.
Give them a call at 1-800-224-7223.
I spoke to "Allen" who confirmed part number as 03694.

Ordered it through OG Racing in Sterling VA ( Brian 1-800-934-9112 ) who was recommended by Sparco as their largest East Coast distributor.

Price was $299.00 delivered, polished aluminum, adjustable and weighs about 5LBS.

As far as the Camry rear shock tower brace, it was the best I could find on EBAY !!

This may be similar:

1992 1996 Camry 4CYL Aluminum Front Strut Tower Brace | eBay

If you look at the pic, the only mod made was to trim the mounting plate to rest on the top of the shock tower in the trunk. Get an adjustable bar because it's necessary to get it as tight length wise as possible.

Ed A.
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1971 280SL ROADSTER
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO WIDEBODY
1994 E320 CABRIOLET
1999 C43 AMG
2005 G55K AMG
2008 CLK63 AMG BLACK SERIES
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  #442  
Old 02-04-2013, 07:24 AM
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Any recommendations on what oil I should use ? Read on the 190rev forum a post from Racing in which he states that at higher power levels the ATF oil is not so good . I'm thinking some thing along the lines of 75w90 non hypoid (GL-4 or GL-5) ?
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #443  
Old 03-17-2013, 04:12 PM
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First test with the new gearbox (717.430).



Over all I'm pleased, the car is not slower with the new box and is nicer to drive due to the longer gears (especially on the highway). With a little practice I'm sure that I can get the 1/4 mile time down into the 12 secs, just hope the gearbox is strong enough to handle the hp/nm .

On another note, I haven't had time to open the getrag (717.404) so no info on what gave up yet .
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #444  
Old 03-17-2013, 04:19 PM
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Sub 5-second 0-100 is excellent, and a sub 12-second 1/4 mile is very good too.

Nice work.
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  #445  
Old 03-21-2013, 03:10 AM
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Thanks, the aim is to get it into the mid-low 12's this year in street trim.

btw here are the gearbox ratios for both boxes

_____717.404___717.430

1_____4.08______3.86
2_____2.52______2.18
3_____1.77______1.38
4_____1.26______1.00
5_____1.00______0.80

And some pictures of both boxes, the 404 is slightly longer than the 430 so I had to change the front part of the propshaft for a longer one to fit (also the gear lever mechnisam and the gear rods have to be changed). Also the 404 is quiet a bit heavier than the 430 which leads me to belive that it is in fact quite a bit stronger.





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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #446  
Old 03-21-2013, 07:10 PM
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Joreto- I am curious how the new tranny will work out for you. What gear ratio rear end are you running?

I have the same transmission ready to swap into my 3.6 w124 wagon. I grabbed it out of a 86 300e. I just sourced a new custom flywheel and set of delrin shifter bushings off 190rev. I just need to get a clutch set up, some new shifter rods, and the plastic piece that holds the shift boot on. I am hoping it holds up well and that I can enjoy the overdrive 5th gear.
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  #447  
Old 03-22-2013, 03:09 AM
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I'm using the stock 3.07 ratio. For normal driving I think the 430 is nicer and the over drive is perfect for cruising on the highway. The lever travel when shifting is longer on this box (guess due to shifter mechanism ) and I have the feeling that the gear synchros are not as good when shifting above 6500 rpms .
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #448  
Old 03-30-2013, 02:14 PM
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Wired the shiftlight (set at lower rpm for testing in the video )

20130330_shiftlight_test - YouTube
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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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  #449  
Old 03-30-2013, 10:18 PM
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That is a great idea. If I needed something like that I would have hoped I would have thought of it.
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  #450  
Old 04-13-2013, 05:07 PM
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Second gearbox is gone, this one gave up just after 3-4 times going WOT . Looks like I'll be switching to a gearbox from another car brand (probably BWM) since mercedes don't have a strong enough manual gearboxes .

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)
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