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  #16  
Old 07-13-2012, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duxthe1 View Post
Comparing my main timing map to the one posted there are similar load/rpm cells where I have 15 degrees more timing!
Yes, but you are running an m103 engine which is a totally different animal compared to the m104 engine. The m104 runs/likes a lot less timing than the m103

P.S. In my thread there are also timing maps from my m103 engine .....

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  #17  
Old 07-19-2012, 12:57 PM
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Im building 2 m104 engines (displacement rules) 2.8L and 3.6L
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  #18  
Old 07-19-2012, 04:04 PM
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That motor looks so cool with triple Webers off the side.

What did you do for the oil filter relocation plate?
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2012, 11:27 AM
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Yes, looks and sounds great

I made an aluminum plate with 2 diferent oil filters housings, original (because I have 12 oil filters that I want to use) and a universal oil filter housing that use fram hp1 oil filter that I used in other projects with sucess.

I already adapt the gm thermo sensor to work with megajolt, to retard timing when engine is hot






Last edited by eduardocastrejon; 07-20-2012 at 11:48 AM.
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  #20  
Old 08-13-2012, 11:46 PM
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  #21  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:56 AM
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Nice project!



The length of all inlet runners (from trumpet/air stack to valve) must be equal. Otherwise it won't be synchronized at some certian RPM and thus you'd get lower power.

The max torque RPMs comes from cam durations. You can degree a cam, to see an actual duration @0.050 in (for example) and simulate it in some software to see what intake/exhaust lengths work best.

Usually people underestimate the importance of good length tuning: exhaust header design and length, and intake manifold design and length. It can add more power than some decent cams.

Again, in terms of reliabilty for endurance racing, it should be dry sump.

And the oil cooler should be as big as possible. Because the oil may seem to be okay, but it's much hotter on the con-rod bearings than it is in the pan. Plus an oil filter should have no relief valve, so there would be nothing to break and low restriction.

Also a "crank scraper" plate could be good.


As for carbs, if they didn't come in the same set, or have been rebuild previously separately, there is a way to balance them among three.

The floats (F) must be equal in weight among three carbs.


This ensures equal fuel delivery to all 6 ports. Your ones look pretty new though.

Just my 2 cents.
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  #22  
Old 08-14-2012, 08:15 PM
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I'm really interested to see how much power it makes with those sidedraft carbs. Should sound awesome! Those weber's screaming along with the natural engine noise of the M104. Mmmmmm.
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  #23  
Old 08-19-2012, 12:06 AM
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I will remove booster, i will install racing pedals with master cylinders.
I will not use carb stacks, Im building a cold box, ram air setup
Ignition is working great, but i need to adjust timing curve for race fuel
I installed a big race oil cooler with thermostat, 3 row aluminum radiator, 2 electric fan with variable speed, coolant and oil temp is not a problem.
Jets, im still working, 3 carbs are already balanced, now is 200, 60, 160
Im learning how timing afect in air fuel ratio, megajolt is great

AND YES! , weber sound is awesome !
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  #24  
Old 08-20-2012, 05:58 AM
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How do you run lines to a oil cooler Sir.
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  #25  
Old 08-27-2012, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
How do you run lines to a oil cooler Sir.
I already post the oil lines adapter (photo)
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  #26  
Old 08-28-2012, 03:06 PM
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link to ebay cooler sandwich plate, fits under oil filter

UNIVERSAL MOCAL OTSP1X OIL COOLER SANDWICH TAKE OFF PLATE WITH THERMOSTAT | eBay

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"some mods improve your car and make it into something it never was, other mods, however, although essentially the same, are not, and make that car a ricer"

if your car isnt shiny, you dont know what you are talking about, remember; paint shine = knowledge. In order to be taken seriously, you should spend all your money on paint, (and get a dyno reading).
Dont forget to polish it often
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