sorry for so many questions.. u probably answered them and yes i read this whole thread and still confused ..my mechanic will be of some assistance too but i wont see him for another week so i just am soo curious about this ..

i checked my resistance on the resistor and i got a reading of .496

now i was under the impression for US cars the timing is set to 0 because of the octane differences here in the US . so by removing the resistor it would advance it 7 degrees. obviously i need to re-read that part cuz i might have misunderstood. but now im getting the feeling if i remove it..it will max out to the highest advance possible.. thats where the adjustable pot would come into play. i could then tune it to my likings ..

sorry for having to have it explained like im a two year old.. i just dont wanna screw it up and i want to be comfortable knowing what will take place when i do this

thanks again in advance

first id like to start by saying i goofed .. i thought i had to remove the resistor from the top end of the plug .. when u actually can just unplug the top half of the plug .. i removed it and got some bad pinging ... so i replaced it .. pinging gone ..i also was running 87 octane so it was kinda expected .. i went to radio shack and bought a adjustable pot .. ill post back on the measurement that works for me and 87 octane

weird thing happened to me .. when i first took out the resistor my engine pinged like a bia .. so i put it back in reset the computer and ran fine .. so at my shop i took it out again , reset the computer and no pinging .. weird stuff .. i also bought a 5k pot and soldered it in place so i will be messing with it more in the days to come .. if everything goes well i should be able to fine tune my timing ...

Could it find on a 90's M103-24V engine?
I cant find it

Just go to the sub-forum that interests you and click it. From there just click New thread on the top left of the forum and you can create your question there. Hope that helps.

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I still dont understand it well.
If I want more HP,which resistor I should instal?
2.4K?or 0 ohm?

first try it without one ..see if your engine pings at all .. if it does you'll need to either install the original or find one that suites your engine and octane used in between the original and non-installed timing setting

Not sure how much you will feel with a stock engine, but I removed mine on a twin turbo M103-12V and the difference is noticeable !!!

Ed A.

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http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...c/GOWIDE-1.jpg
1971 280SL ROADSTER
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO WIDEBODY
1994 E320 CABRIOLET
1999 C43 AMG
2005 G55K AMG
2008 CLK63 AMG BLACK SERIES

stock i barely noticed it

I would go further to say it was completely un-noticeable.....except that the engine ran slightly hotter, which may have been the result of me driving it harder trying in vain to find somewhere in the power band where it worked. Waste of time IMHO

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1999 C43 AMG ~~~ 744 on black, mostly stock
1991 190e 2.6 ~~~ m117 5.6 project car

I've been following most of this post...

my mechanic says that you shouldn't mess with the R16 resistor if you don't have the euro switch bc you could mess up your ECU if you do

I trust him... he's German.

I'd say replace it with different ohms, but don't just pull it out

Well I removed my resistor about two years ago and still running strong with same ecu, no problems, and I noticed a big difference.....guess it's how you press down on the gas pedal....my gas pedal works fine and quickly......and I'm German also....so go figure

As far as gasoline is concerned, the words "Premium Fuel Only" are printed from the factory near my fuel guage in the instrument cluster (and printed on a sticker located inside the gas lid), and that's what I pump in each and every time I get gas. I would not sleep at night knowing I got some 87 octane by mistake....I would pump it out and start a fire with it before I burned it in my Mercedes, especially with the catalytic converters that are on the car....all three run the risk of being clogged from excess carbon buildup, and don't think it doesn't happen. I see it alot on older Mercedes, as the current owners have been running low grade gas since they bought it, and carbon builds up which related in a loss of power under initial acceleration, not to forget the increased gasoline consumption.

Not that my opinion matters, it's the thought that counts

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'87 300E | 2.6 engine
Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp!
91 300E
89 300E


The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"...

Just tried this on my 88 260E very nice improvement !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I removed this resistor on my 1990 560 SEC and feel a noticable improvement in off idle, midrange and top end performance. I always run premium anyway and am not hearing any indication of detonation.

The most dramatic improvement I feel is in mid-range torque. My car lifts the front end (not the tires) almost like a muscle car and scratches both rear tires when it shifts into second gear now. It NEVER did that before. Thanks for the tip.

My next performance mod is going to be to replace the stock aged cats with some new high-flow units. I've already put in a K&N air filter, removed the kidney shaped resonators- replacing them with a short, straight through pair of glasspacks and swapped a 3-chamber flowmaster for the stock muffler. It sounds sweet, doesn't drone, is lighter and flows better.

Took the car out for a long ride today, it definitely made an improvement car runs stronger better throttle response,it remindes me of on a trip to Florida I was out at Moroso Speedway and put some race fuel in my vw gti nothing crazy I think it was Sunoco 101 or 102 Octane. the car just felt stronger! Its the best free mod I done to any of my cars!!!!!!!!!!