Yes I noticed they don't give a price for the dry sump system. My guess it if you have to ask it's too expensive. But I am interested in the remote oil filter plate and the water pump plates. Still expensive and I could make those but with design time for one unit probably would not be worth it. But I would love to know what a set of heads cost.

__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit:
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store
John Roncallo

I'll probably skip dry sump due to costs. I'll baffle and trap door the wet sump pan and run an Accusump to cover situations where the oil pressure still has problems. This is considerably cheaper than a dry sump setup, and I should be able to do it all for less than $650.

For the water pump, its possible that I have some flanges cut out and run a remote electric pump, which I've had great success with in the past. The same company that makes the water pump I've done so well with also makes thin-mount brushless electric fans that are capable of some insane flow numbers for their size.

I already have a pump and fan sitting around for another project, I may borrow them for the time being.

I've ordered tubing and collectors to do a set of 6-1 headers in mild steel. Looks like I'll have about $3000 total invested once done, but that includes a fair amount of tooling as well. A second set would likely cost me about $1500. This is for 24 to 30 inches of equal length primary tubing (tubing length will ultimately be decided by fitment) in 1.75" diameter. If I can sell the first set for what I have invested, the tooling will ultimately be free, and I may even start building them out of stainless.

Smaller than 1.75" isn't economical enough for me to consider, as I wouldn't use the tubing or the tooling for anything else. The only way I could justify a smaller 1.625" diameter is if I had buy-ins for manifolds from 3 people.

1.75" will actually fit nicely, if I up my goals a bit for power.

Total invested so far:
-Plug wires ($89)
-Injectors ($0): Pulled from trashed intake manifolds.
-Injector hats ($32)
-New injector O-rings ($14)
-Ignition Coils ($0): Leftovers from buying/selling LS engines.
-Spark Plugs ($44)
-Header Flanges ($110)
-75mm Cable Throttle Bodies x2 ($70)
-MS3Pro wiring harness ($300)
Total: $659

With the sensors I need, plus a few misc connectors, I figure I'm probably $300 shy of having it running and tuned on the MS3Pro, putting me in at just under $1000.

With power steering/AC delete, electric fan, greatly improved ignition, aggressive fuel/timing and conversion to run on E85.. I'm hoping the original 389 HP comes out closer to 440 (I don't see this being any problem). The MS3Pro will be used to control the VVT for optimal power and torque.

Exhaust headers will be the very next step. It looks like 1.625" primaries in 16 gauge mild steel, with 6-1 collectors that merge into 3" (2.5" with a 3" expansion may be used). Primary tube length between 24 and 28" depending on problems with fitment on the driver's side. Possibly a custom X-pipe afterwards depending on the exhaust tone when finished. This should put me around 465-475 horsepower which is where you typically end up with 6.0 LS engines after just cam/headers.

Maybe I'll be able to break 500 with an intake manifold. Unlikely as the factory piece isn't very restrictive, but the runner length and plenum design leaves a lot to be desired.

I'm just wondering what kind of car you are putting 6 into 1 collectors and 24"+. I don't see me having a hope in hell on my 107.

I also think you will find that the published 389HP is very conservative. I got 355 on a chassis dyno and didn't even get it into 1:1 4th gear on the dyno, so I was still going through a planetary reduction.

__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit:
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store
John Roncallo

I'm going to attempt to make a set for the W140 that the engine currently resides in, before pulling it out. The steering box is the biggest obstacle. Once the set is finished, I'll probably pull the engine and scrap the car. This will allow me to get a decent base tune as well and do some exhaust note tuning.

The headers will be listed for sale once the engine is out of the car.

Definitely post some pictures.

__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit:
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store
John Roncallo

I'm about to start on the headers. I'll try to post some pics but mobile photo uploads are disabled on the forum.

Here, an image of the flanges/collectors at least.

Attached Thumbnails

 

I'm glad I found this thread- following with interest.

I am doing an M120 swap into an old Toyota Supra.

I'll be running Maxxecu- don't think I will be able to keep the vvt. I'm interested where you end up with cams. I would love to build a top end for 8k+ redline if that's doable.

I'm going itbs for space reasons and to be able to run a single e-throttle instead of 2.

Not 100% sure if I can make the front sump work or if dry sump will be required. So far bottom of pan hits the sway bar.

If you are posting your progress somewhere else as well I would love to know.

I got to wondering if there was a Facebook group for folks modifying the M120 or swapping it into other vehicles- I couldn’t find any, so I just created one. I’m the only member so far but don’t be shy if you want to join

https://www.facebook.com/share/g/iK4WSBAs19DhnLsb/?mibextid=K35XfP

I just joined

__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit:
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store
John Roncallo

I just joined as well.

I have 3 other cars I'm trying to get finished before it gets too cold, then I'll be starting up on this one again. The front of the car is torn down enough for me to get started on the headers, but I haven't made a move on it just yet.

The VVT is just on/off. If you can do custom tables in Maxx then it should be easy to control it.

ITBs are great, but with the downside of complexity.

Sway bars can be changed to a different style or relocated.

I have some options for cams right now, from easiest to most difficult:
-Pay Gooichi a small fortune for cams ($4k/set to start IIRC).
-Find a cam grinder in the US that will regrind them (I've found several potential candidates, $1200-1800).
-Ship them to the existing regrinders in Germany to have them done and shipped back (dbilas or Renntech, $1400-200).
-Reconfigure the timing chain to run on top of the intake cams instead of underneath, allowing use of M104 cams which are more readily available.