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#1
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M119 Owners with Rough Idle/Missing/Hesitation problems
Thought we could start a concise thread for M119 owners with Rough Idle/Missing/Hesitation problems.
My 92 400E had these problems and I changed out, as I'm sure most of you have: Plugs, Caps, Rotors, Wires(X2) - was still missing New TBA and rubber sleeve and cleaned MAF - was still missing, but no longer hiccuping/cutting out All vacuum lines/connectors - was still missing Disassembled and reassemble the intake(there are rubber grommets that hold the upper and lower halver of the intake together, sort of like the "chinese finger cuffs")- was still missing finally had the FI's purged under pressure using a purging solution and apparatus. Hesitation/Idle finally went away. If yours is exhibiting any of these conditions start at the obvious/ easiest and work your way through these steps. At 180Kmi, all my rubber vacuum parts were brittle and needed replacement and the FI's need cleaning out. Tom Woolner offered that the cause/cure of his problem " It was a broken piece of plastic(rubber sleeve) between the Mass Air Sensor and the throttle body. It was causing a vacuum leak, which caused rough idle. I replaced the caps, rotors, and spark plug wires before we found the real problem." It seems to me that the rough idle that plagues these cars is more often than not related to a vacuum leak as opposed to an electrical(spark) issue. I've found that by starting the cars, removing the air box and spraying aerosol brake cleaner on all the vacuum lines,hoses and couplings that if these is a leak, this will detect them. The cars idle will surge or shut off. Hope this helps a member who is pulling his hair out cause he can't figure out what / where the problem is and is cringing at the possibility of taking the car to the shop and spending a lot of $$ to have the problem MIS-diagnosed! |
#2
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I like the . . . .
brake cleaner spray idea! Good way, no. . . great way to find cracked, broken vacuum lines.
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#3
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great idea
I will try this, this weekend...
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#4
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Similar Issue
About once a season, I would have a rough-idle problem, and it usually cleared up by the time I had pulled out of the driveway. This year, it was a little different. Tell me what you guys think of the latest:
My 1992 500E had about 55,500 miles on it when we set out for the west side of Michigan for a lake weekend. Like a bonehead, I had let the car sit from Nov to March with about 1/4 tank of fuel, so I filled up before we hit the road. The tank was almost dry by the time I filled up, and I probably didn't pay enough attention as I was filling up to fill the tank slowly, not at full blast, so that I wouldn't stir up any junk that might have developed over the winter. After filling up, I went about a mile to the DIY car wash to get the dinge off the car so it was a bit more presentable on the road (I know, I know, avoid these places, but the car looked bad and I didn't have the time to handwash). As I pulled out onto the road, the car started hesitating and bucking like crazy, and even with the pedal to the floor it was not making full power. I figured I had stirred up some crud and plugged an injector, and once the car shifted into 3rd and hit around 40mph, it seemed to settle down. I reasoned that at higher flow rates the spray pattern from the injector was not as critical as at low speeds, and once on the highway, it seemed back to normal. Drove the car about 400 miles altogether with no probs. Refueling after an hour on the road, the "Check Engine" light came on as soon as I fired her up. Stayed on the rest of the trip and after each subsequent start. I took the car to the dealer where they diagnosed the code as "Lambda Integrator at Stop." According to the tech, this code had set 128 times (?!) before it turned on the light. They tested the emissions system and determined it was working within spec. They reset the light and it did not come back on, and in light (pun intended) of this, only charged me for 1.5 of the 3 hours the tech had in the job. Later, I recalled that one of the air box clips was still off from when I installed K&Ns way back in 2001. I had them reinstall the clip, just in case. So far, with another 30 miles of driving, no sign of the light, although tomorrow I'll be putting 100 miles on her for a short biz trip. Any ideas, guys? Kirk 1992 500E Pearl black/gray 55,900 miles |
#5
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Kirk, this is the infamous DTC#19 problem . . .
It WILL come back! Check out these threads:
Check engine light on 94 E420 and a couple of other questions Fault Codes for M119 Send me private email and I'll elaborate. There is an easy fix. |
#6
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Gong Show
Quote:
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#7
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aldemon, we forgot about you!
When you sent me that email, I kinda sat there and scratched my head. . . . who's that??? Sorry, about that.
No your problem (had you not given us the solution) is not the DTC19. With a missing/rough running, I bet on a bad plug/bad wire/dirty/fouled injector. Just because you changed wires and plugs, one or the other could still be bad. Same with the injector. A STORY: saw Pat (Exclusive Motors) diagnose the same problem with a S420. He pulls the ignition wires while running holding the wire over the plug slowly pulling away until no 'spark'. On this car, nothing changed, so after a little testing, bad cyclinder was number 4. Was a shorted/open plug. Wouldn't have believed it if didn't see it myself. The clue: the car would idle rough but when when forced to 2000 rpm, then back to normal idle, the car was as smooth as glass for about 1-2 minutes until the plug fouled. That's how he knew it was a plug not the plug wire. But this same car had two (2) bad wires; they were open! |
#8
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Wiring harness(es)? Check for cracks especially nearest the hot motor. The harnessses stink on the 500E...IMO.
I'm going to Thermo-Tech wrap the new lower harness I got...the wire covers melted and flaked away on my originals....much like they all do after time and miles. |
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