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my next mod: Bi-Xenon HID headlamp upgrade
I have just acquired (from a friend with a CLK 55) the following:
quantity: 2 (left and right sides) Mercedes-Benz P/N # 203-820-25-26 description: Bi-Xenon HID ballasts (made in France), connectors, and bulbs Given that these parts list for $450.00 per side, I SCORED!!! All I had to do in return was build a very simple LAN and install some software on my lunch break! As Mr. Checkov was fond of saying, "No problim,, Keptin." Stay tuned... |
Scott:
Are you planing on upgrading the lower driving lights (on the bottom of the facia)? I had similar thoughts as well. Please elaborate NLT 0830 06JUNE03. Many thanks. :D :D :D |
1041 hrs PDT FRI 06JUN03
;)
I plan to upgrade my fog-lights, at a later time, yes... ...just not right now (too many mods-in-progress!!! :cool: |
how are you planning on getting a bi-xenon system in your car? In order to have bi-xenon, you will have to convert to projector beam-type headlights. The W124 uses reflector-type headlights. Well I guess you'll be doing some serious mods then.
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[post deleted - I had some inaccurate information here - sorry!] :(
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who needs a kit for XENON?? I am an electrical novice and I managed to install D2S type xenons in my 300e.
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clarification
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my car has european headlights that use the H4 bulb. What " kit of parts" are you referring to?
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per my 1st post...
quantity: 2 (left and right sides)
Mercedes-Benz P/N # 203-820-25-26 description: Bi-Xenon HID ballasts (made in France), connectors, and bulbs |
Because the headlamp assembly for all W124's including 500E's are NOT designed for the "arc" light of a HID, you're only getting about 45% efficiency.
Moroever, unless you ONLY want the 500E's pencil-beam, you will LOSE your H4 highbeams, unless there is a HID kit that does both HIGH and LOW beams, but how you get that into a 500E's headlamp, is beyond my imagination. IMHO, you will get better performance and lighting if you do the following in order: 1) Get Hella or BOSCH Euro 500E headlamps (contact Paul at Puma- http://www.puma-access.com ); 2) install headlamp relays using 10-ga. wire ( http://lighting.mbz.org/ ) along with Hella ceramic hi-temp H4 connectors http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/relays/relays.html ; 3) upgrade to OSRAM or Narva Rallye H4 bulbs (130/100); 4) upgrade your H3 pencil-beams to relays & 10-ga. wire and 80W or 100W bulbs ( http://lighting.mbz.org ); 5) upgrade your alternator from a 1997+ S500 or SL500 (150-amps!) with a 2-ga. wire from the alternator to the battery; 6) install a relay to activate LOW beams as well as HIGH, and PENCIL beams. Assuming stock bulbs, with item #6, you're putting out 340-watts of light; With 130/100w H4's and 80w H3's, 620-watts of power, NOT including your FOGS! :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
Neil
Thank you for your expert insight!
Since I currently have Euro 500E E-codes, my current headlamps already have Hella ceramic hi-temp H4 connectors, do they not? Do you happen to have the part # of a 150-amp alternator from a 1997> S500 or SL500, please? Pardon my ignorance; however, what, exactly, are "pencil beams?" RSVP / Thank you, |
like I said before. The only way to get bi-xenon is by converting your reflector hadlights to projector beam type headlights.
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I did most everything Neil said to my car - 500E Euros, relays, 143A alternator, 130/100 Rally H4's, and 100 H3's in the pencils. Set up so the pencils come on with the high beams. It's a bad idea to have the low beam filament light up while the high beam is on, talk to Dan Stern for the reasons why not to (mostly the possibility of exploding the bulb, and putting light down on the "wrong" areas of the pavement.) The results are astounding - probably equal to a good HID setup. Only drawback is short bulb life of the 130/100 Philips Rally bulbs at $20/each. After those, even 100/80's look dim. :D :D
Scott, every 124 except the 500E had fog lights next to the headlights. The 500E put the fog lights in the bumper (air dam), and used the freed-up space to put a pencil-beam, long-range driving light that comes on with the high beams (4 bulbs lit on high, instead of only 2 like on all other W124's). Your 500E Euro's don't have the special high-temp internal H4 connector, those are about $10 each from Dan Stern, and are only required if you want to run heavy gauge wire direct to the bulb (I ran to the headlamp 6-pin connector to simplify future replacement). About the alternator, the 143A and 150A units were used on 1996-1999 S and SL class with the M119 engine (420/500). 1995 and older have smaller alternators, and I'm not sure about 2000+. Good used ones can be found for $100-$150 each. Rebuilt will cost you $3-400, and new will be ~$1000 (not worth it - used ones are FINE). For more details, iincluding MB part numbers, read this (prices are old) : http://www.meimann.com/docs/mercedes/Alternators.pdf Photos of my relay install are here: http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_headlights/ Photos of the alternator install and wiring are here: http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_stereo/ HTH, |
Scott- Dave answered everything. FWIW, Stu Ritter has the low-beams come on with the high-beams on the H4, and so far no problems that I've heard of.
Relays and 10-ga. wire along with Hella hi-temp H4 connectors, and 130/100 will IMHO will outshine any HID being FORCED into 500E headlamp assembly. Also, since you're installing that Mac audio system, get the 143 or 150 Amp alternator ASAP used from Silver Star Recycling in Sacramento. Be sure to install a new regulator assembly ($50) from PartsLane. 143-amp alternator: 009.154.56.02 150-amp alternator: 010.154.71.02 Regulator MB PN#: 002.154.92.06, ask for BOSCH equivalent Tell parts yard to only find an alternator with a *non-melted* plastic center-bearing race. The 150-amp alternator has a plastic vent-scoop. BTW: Anyone know what the proper adjusting procedure for the H3 "pencil-beam" and foglights are on the 500E? I couldn't find it on the CD-manual. :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
thanks, everybody!
:D
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See the part numbers and caveats above.
:-) neil |
What's the frequency, Neil?
Actually, I'm going to upgrade the 500E OEM Lights to an E-code (spec) Assembly. I was looking at the Hella E-codes ... you mentioned "BOSCH" E-codes. What's the difference?
Scott: A Pencil beam is a physics term used to describe a form (shape) of an electromagnetic (EM) beam of energy. Light is a part (based on frequency) of the EM spectrum and a Pencil beam is a very 'tight' or 'narrow' shape of a beam. Think of this ... take a typical Mag-Light and rotate the lense assembly to turn it on and off ... the beam shape varies from a Broad beam to a Pencil beam. Schools out ... drive safe. |
physically sound
Thanks, Norm; however, I was inquiring re: the context, here.
May I infer that we are referring to low-beams when we use the "pencil" term? :confused: |
Normally the "pencil" term is used for high-beam, long-range lights. Low beams are short-range, with a broad spread of light in front of the car. That's one of the reasons Dan Stern says not to have high & low beam filaments on at the same time (as the MBCA page "recommends"), it will put too much light close to the front of the car, when for high beams you want the light farther away. Otherwise your pupils close up a bit from all the "nearby" light, reducing your long-range vision. I'm not explaining this well but you might kind of get the idea. With relays, large wire, 14+ volts at the battery, and Philips Rally bulbs, you'll have more light than you can imagine! :D
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relays
Neil (et al.),
Please elaborate upon/explain in more detail the required "relays." I need to put together a shopping-list, ASAP. Thank you, |
Just a quick note... relays are not needed with a Xenon HID conversion. They're just to allow maximum voltage to normal incandescant H3/H4 bulbs. :cool:
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Yep, the nice thing about HID's are no real need for relays.
BTW: do some reading at: http://lighting.mbz.org Illuminating :D :cool: neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
Neil
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Re: 40-45% efficiency vs halogens... that would be a GREAT question for Dan Stern, maybe ask him and post his reply here? ;)
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do i smell contradiction??
yes i do,and it aint from Calvin Klein. who say installing HID only gets you 45% efficiency?? |
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Neil, Are you referring to NON-Euro spec, E-code (i.e. - U.S. market, OEM) W124 lights, only? |
thats really hard to believe !! Daniel Stern..Shed some "Light" on this matter please.
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Yep! Based upon the INCREASED glare and non-focused "arc" light of an HID in a Halogen-based reflector, you are BRIGHTER but now have WORSE forcused light.
http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/retro-vs-oem.htm Excerpt: "Beam focal points: The headlight reflectors and lenses of OEM HID headlights (=optics) are engineered specifically for use with HID arc capsules. The design not only considers the source focal points, but the amount of lumen to be distributed. These factors are often overlooked when retrofitting is considered. OEM HID optics distributes the increased lumen output of this bulb farther ahead on the road, wider to both sides, and directly in front of the subject vehicle. This provides motorists with much WIDER AND DEEPER night time vision. By contrast, halogen headlight optics do not spread the light to the degree of OEM HID. This is simply because a 55 watt halogen bulb (or even a 100 watter) cannot match the lumen output of HID. A lower number of lumens means less light to spread out. And a bigger portion of the total light output have to be placed where its mostly needed: straight ahead. Now, consider what what happens when someone inserts a 2800-3200 lumen HID arc capsule into a headlight designed to distribute only 1/3 of this amount of light. Suddenly, there's too much light in areas that does not need more light: above the focal point. This is known as glare. " Although a MB hasn't been tested, here are some results: http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/car-tested-retro.htm Remember, it's all about the optics. :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
thats why i added glare shields to my D2S bulbs and I have the european andjustable headlights in my 300e. I have my housing "adapted" for HID. Before i "adapted" my headlights drivers thought I had my brights on, now after my modifications and adjustments my light is spread evenly and there is NO glare towards oncoming traffic. My efficiency is about 85-90%
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Don't gamble your $$$ on HID's for the W124. I've yet to see a complete kit that addresses all the issues as listed below.
Taken from: http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/hl-hid-kits.htm :-) neil ================ HID kits for use in halogen headlamp systems: Are HID kits "Plug and Play" as advertising says? Experience has shown that upgrading a light system correct is NOT plug and play as every single HID kit pusher wants you to belive. There are one good reason to ask seller at least 10 questions before purchasing any kit: $500! Who are the producers of HID kits? Kits are made in everything from basements to half professional facilities. Its a small world: Suvlights is in the CA, US. They have all kinds of OEM and non OEM parts for doing all kinds of headlight upgrades, even connectors in loose weight. Phoenix Micro-Lite Inc. (US) has disappeared from the web. Hid Kits is in TX, USA. Unlike all others, they make their own ballast. Does it really have the same quality as OEM ballasts? Autolamps are in the UK. They use Philips ballasts and bulbs only. HANA, makes Vision kits, are in Korea. K2 Kits (10 out of 100 bulbs has been reported defective. After having quality issues with self made ballast and Osram ballast, Matshu****a was tried for a while with execellent quality. Appearantly, they are now back a new version of their own ballast.) is a derivative product of Vision. SIJ in Taiwan. Bulbs have been spotted with SIJ label. SIJ is made by the company Mycarr Auto Acessories Co Ltd., which rebases even Philips HID bulbs. Xenon Werks is in Asia. Owned by MTC Lighting (Malaysia) SB. MTC Lighting also owns and operate the US based Hidforless. There has been quality issues with some hidforless kits. PIAA are in Japan. They started up with light bulbs only. Wonder if they are going away from ligthing? Other automotive accessories like winshieldwipers and storage boxes are now visible on their website. BellOfHID are in Japan. Ther ballasts are made by Panasonic. Catz HID kits are basically relabled BellOfHID kits. Xenon Depot is in Thornhill, ON, Canada. Mtec-GmbH is in Frankfurt, Germany. They cooperate with Autolamps-online.com. They make the "Xenall" kit that are distrubuted around europe and Australia. They also sell highly effcient FF-lamps for LeMans cars. This must not be confused by the Japanese comapy Maruta Technology (also shorted MTEC) Who sells HID kit? <SNIP> What is the best HID kit? To be general, there is no answer to this question. Different outcome for same application: All halogen housings are different, even if they use the same bulb type. Some housings require shielding, some dont. Some require custom shield. Some housings simlply cannot be retrofitted with HID Application variance: A kit for lets say H1 from a certain kit manufacturer is excellent, but a 9006 kit can be really bad. Production and quality variances: Even if you have bought the excact same kit 6 months ago doesnt mean you will get the same parts nor quality if ordered today. Some kits are hand made, some are partially hand made, some are totally automatically made. <SNIP> Dont gamble away $500 on a HID kit as so many car enthusiasts have done. How do I recognice that a HID kit is worth buying? The base of the bulb is either custom molded in high temp plastic or rebased using high temp epoxy (not available in your local HW store!) using materials like stainless steel or aluminum. Has high quality harness with the following specs: 105C degree rated insulation, 12-14AWG wire, relays fed from battery/alternator. 2 versions available, with or without shield - even for 9005/9006 and H7, not only H4. Full instruction describing install process, where to (not) mount ballast, troubleshoting guide, including overview over experiences with the most popular cars. Original bulb clip will still fit. HID bulb does not occupy more space than an halogen bulb. Purchase option for HID bulb return wire facing up or down. Select: For projector based only: facing down. Reflector headlights only: you should try both directions for best results or follow sellers recommandation. Money back guarantee within 14 days or more - even if the bulb has been tried into a housing and has received no scrathes. Splash proof ballast and connectors How do I recognice that a HID kit is NOT worth buying? Seller claims 200W light output. Light output is measured in lumens, not watt. Halogen base glued onto a modified D2* bulb with low temprature (corner HW store) epoxy. Lack of, too thin, or too low temprature rated, wireing harness. Lack of relays, or incorrect wiring of relays. No glare shield on the bulb. (A must for reflector based headlamps) Vague or no instructions. Lack of warning that stock clip might not fit. Lack of warning that stock rear headlight cover does not fit due to lack of space. Lack of information about how much deeper the HID bulb is compared to Halogen. Lack of purchase option for HID bulb return wire facing up or down. Projector units only: if return wire faces up, it will create a bad shadow on the ground. Reflector headlights only: you should try both directions for best results. Lack of return policy. Insufficient water protection of ballast and connectors. Description on how to approach problem areas described above is described by on this site. Does Philips make HID conversion kit? No, anyone trying to sell you a kit made by Philips is is a scam. Philips has a world wide reputation to take of and will never make something that can be unsafe. Bulb and ballast might be made by Philips, but Philips will only be a 3rd party supplier of parts to the person or company that puts the kit together. As you can see in the "How do I recognice that a HID kit is worth buying?" section, there are more parts and ingenuety going into a high quality conversion kit. Does Hella make HID conversion kit? No - for the same reason as above. See what Hella has to say about illegal retrofit kit. Custom based versus modded base of a D2 HID bulb Gluing d2s glass capsule to an already existing halogen base is a cheaper way of producing kits than having a machine glue on a custom high temperature resistant base. If used correct materials and enough R&R is put into the final product, the results should be the same. Unfortunatly, some kit manufacturers settle for less than OEM quality standards, and totally overlook that standard hardware store glue cannot be used on the bulb, or lack of adequate equipment for focal point verification in the production line, or similar. What is the difference between OEM Bi-Xenon and aftermarked Bi-Xenon kits? OEM Bi-Xenon usually has a moveble projector shield with a optimized reflector and curved lens. Aftermarked Bi-Xenon is ment to replace dual filament halogen bulbs H4, 9004, and 9007. Most 9004 and 9007 headlights are not suitable for the higher lumens of an HID bulb, so take precautions if you consider this. There are a couple of H4 Bi-Xenon systems out there: - The "HID Plus with a moveable "spoon" for H4 headlamps that will block/unblock light downwards. The included ballast were first Osram, but were later changed to the well known Philips/Hella. The blue coated bulb and hardware are made in Asia. They were first released in 7000K around march 2002. They are also sold by autotoys.com. In fall 2002 a 9000K version came out. US Distrubutor is appearantly SPW Industries. HID Plus goes under the name Magatech in Japan. The supplier is the Korean trading firm KDG This is Eddie's comment: I'm a former clamshell HID user... took it off my truck after a week of driving with it. Low beam pattern spread was actually less than OEM halogen. High beam is a joke. They were so blue, bluer than a cheap blue tinted halogen. The seller says violet hue, those things are going to be extremely purple, probably more than u ever want. - Hidkits.com solution with a retractable bulb using a spring loaded solenoid. Burner brand is unknown. Ballasts are made in house. "Highlandsun" has tested them and posted results here. - Autolamps-online solution with a retractable bulb using a spring loaded solenoid. It is based on Philips ballast and burner, which is more or less the reference for quality nowadays. Things to consider: Availability on replacement bulb. Every seller claims 2-3000 hours life. What if it does break anyway? Would they be available 3 years down the road? You could drive one eyed for a week and half while new bulbs are mail ordered. You could have a regular H4 in the glove compartment, but will your wiring harness still work with the old bulbs? You will probably be pulled over for having a bulb out. You could order a spare for the glove compartment, which is kind of costly. Will the HID bulb withstand the G-forces over time made by solenoid? If bulb is deeper in the rear, you possibly have to open up the weatherproofing, and develop a solution for yourself. Again, the Plug And Play rule..... |
Mike- congrats and THANK YOU for dealing with the GLARE, by installing shields.
Installation of shields without measurements is a trial-and-error proposition, and without tooling, I doubt one can get repetable results, but thanks for doing it. I hope all of that "shielded" light going somewhere useful. :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
BTW my HID kit came out of a wrecked Porsche. They are ugly,but they are OEM and are perfect working (4100k or 4300k).Not like those cheap Jap kits.
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Mike please post pictures, especially the shield.
We need more conscientious HID upgraders like you. Scott: good thing you didn't have to shell out $$$, just some LAN labor hours. It'll be interesting if they fit in the existing housing without modification. :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
i will definetly post the pics ASAP.
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(I will have them, tomorrow...) |
Re: relays
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Carl at Bergwerks sells the relay kit with the heavy gauge wires and relays. It might be cheaper to buy separately, but it sure is convenient to buy from him: http://www.bergwerks.com/relay_kits.jsp |
thank you, Paul
Shanta just informed me of the same...
I will buy Carl's kit, because he is cool/has been supportive, thus far. ;) |
I looked at the BergWerks kit and there are 2 things I don't like about it. First, the wire size is too small (IMO) for over-wattage bulbs. Second, they only include two relays, not four. That means you get to drape wires across the bumper or radiator to feed the "other" side. I'd want at least 10 gauge feeding the relays, and two relays per side (one for low beam, one for the high beam + pencil H3's.) That's how I ran mine and voltage drop is 0.3v on low beam (100w), 0.5v on high beam (230w combined). With electrical stuff, it's hard to go overkill except when you reach the point of wires SO big they're hard to terminate (imagine connecting a battery/starter cable to your H3 bulb, for example). Note that the BergWerks kit is adequate for standard bulbs sizes, and is "ok" for overwattage bulbs, just NOT optimal. (My college degree is in electrical technology, so I'm not just talking out my arse here... ;) ;) ) If you want to buy from BergWerks, I'm sure they'll be happy to accomodate you with some larger wires and 2 more relays, after trying to convince you that "gsxr" clown on the Internet is a real Bozo. :D
Check out my photos at the URL posted earlier for how I ran my setup. (Yes, I will eventually add text writeups to go with all the photos, so I don't have to keep re-typing this stuff all the time!) For my other 124, which has the same 500E Euro Hellas but hasn't gotten relays installed yet, I plan to feed each pair of relays with 8 gauge wire, splitting to one 10ga per relay, and then 12ga out to the bulbs... all one size larger than my current setup. I want to get down to 0.3v drop on high beam too! :D Also note that for a 500E, you'd need a third relay for the bumper fogs only. Since the pencils come on with high beams, those get driven off the high beam relay(s)... not any point in getting another one *only* for the pencils, as the bottleneck is still the feed wire from the battery. Hope this makes sense... BTW - I was considering doing HID in the other 124 instead of relays. I think y'all have sucessfully talked me out of it for now. Thanks!! :cool: Regards, |
Dave M.
Suggestion:
Put together a W124 lighting upgrade kit and SELL IT; I'll be your first customer - and I will advertise it on my website for FREE. I honestly don't have time to source all this stuff; PLEASE HELP!!! |
Hmmm, ya know, that's not a bad idear! Might have to check into that. :p
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please do...
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ASAP!!! |
I'd buy it!:D
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my $0.02
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I'll even front you the cash to put a kit together for me, Dave. RSVP |
I used MB connectors which can hold 10-ga. stranded copper wire and wired in the 40A Hella Relays.
Here are some sample pics: http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/300te88b.jpg More mods here: http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/300te883.htm http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/300te882.htm http://www.silcom.com/~neilv/sportline Enjoy, :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
The "word" on HID upgrades for Halogen headlamp assemblies
Per Daniel Stern (http://lighting.mbz.org):
There's no way to say "You'll only get X percent of the HID's capability". You'll have an improper beam, period. Zero percent of the HID's capability! There are many unsafe, illegal and noncompliant products on the market, mainly consisting of an HID ballast and bulb for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of security. While some of the components in these kits are sometimes made by the companies mentioned, reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. NEVER endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products. Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective -- not to mention legal -- beam pattern. It is not some great feat of upgrade engineering to put an HID capsule where a halogen bulb belongs, it is just plain foolishness. Some types of halogen headlamp bulbs (9004, 9007, H3) use a transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not directly in line with the central axis of the headlamp reflector) filament, the position and orientation of which is physically impossible to match with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Even those halogen headlamps that use axial-filament (9005, 9006, H1, H7) bulbs are not safely or legitimately "convertible", regardless of what kinds of "clever" products the junk vendors come up with. The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, examining isoscans of the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" reveals *less* distance light, and often an alarming relative minimum where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. When you *think* you can see better than you can, you're *not* safe. It's tricky to judge headlamp beam performance without a lot of knowledge, a lot of training and a lot of special equipment, because subjective perceptions are very misleading. Having a lot of strong light in the foreground, that is on the road close to the car and out to the sides, is very comforting and reliably produces a strong *impression* of "good headlights". The problem is that not only is foreground lighting of decidedly secondary importance when travelling much above 30 mph, but having a very strong pool of light close to the car causes your pupils to close down, *worsening* your distance vision...all the while giving you this false sense of security. This is to say nothing of the massive amounts of glare to other road users and backdazzle to you, the driver, that results from these "retrofits". HID headlamps also require careful weatherproofing and electrical shielding because of the high voltages involved. These unsafe "retrofits" make it physically possible to insert an HID bulb where a halogen bulb belongs, but this practice is illegal and dangerous, regardless of claims by these marketers that their systems are "beam pattern corrected" or the fraudulent use of established brand names to try to trick you into thinking the product is legitimate. In order to work correctly and safely, HID headlamps must be designed from the start as HID headlamps. The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the *entire* headlamp -- that is lens, reflector, bulb...the WHOLE shemozzle -- with optics designed for HID usage. It IS possible to get clever with available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels. But just putting an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs is bad news all around. DS |
Yep - Dan just convinced me to skip the HID thing until Bosch or Hella make a 124 HID headlamp (like THAT will ever happen). I would like to see Mike's modified reflector, just because I can't picture in my head what he did! :)
About making a kit, I think I could do a kit for the 124.1x3 (like Speedy's and mine) since I have one to play with, to get the mounting locations correct etc. I'd be nervous about making a 124.036 kit (500E) because I don't know where to tell people to mount the relays. I'd want to have step-by-step, idiot-proof instructions. Some tools would be required (crimper, preferably controlled-cycle; and possibly a soldering iron - depends how you want to do the final termination [direct to bulb or just to headlamp 6-pin conn.]). Neil's setup looks pretty clean, I like that. Neil - do those Hella relays have built-in fuses? Hard to tell from the photo. You still need to fuse back at the battery for short-circuit protection but a secondary never hurts. The MB connectors are a nice touch too. :D |
No, these are the Hella relays WITHOUT a fuse. I do have fuses very close to the battery feed, and to the negative ground as well.
:-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
FWIW, the 150Amp alternator I installed was MB pn#011.154.32.02. I only swapped pulleys from my C36 engine, and everything else bolted right up. These alternators are found on 1999-2001 E430, E55, and some CL's.
Technically, the M119's 150amp alternator is MB pn#011.154.71.02, but the one above was only $90-used and didn't need any modifications. These alternators are found on 1997-1999 SL500's and 500SELs. The original BOSCH regulator was BOSCH pn# 1.197.311.556 The replacement BOSCH regulator is BOSCH pn# 1.197.311.242 The alternator tested at 160Amps for 10-minutes on the bench. :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
part #s for relays, please!
:)
...pretty please??? |
Unfortunately, I don't have them. Give Dan an email by visiting his website: http://lighting.mbz.org
:-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
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