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#1
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Hard top stuck
The hard top will not completely release at the rear latch on my 1973 450 SL. Can someone give me some info to help resolve this matter.
I would like to take the top off and just use the soft top and the tonneau cover. |
#2
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Take a cheap screwdriver, bend about the last 1-2 inches of it 90 degrees. (If you are holding the screwdriver with the slot facing vertical, you would want to bend it up or down, not left or right). You now have a tool you can insert into I believe the right side of the locking tab and release the catch. This all assumes you know how to operate the levers correctly to loosen and release the rear catch. You will then need to diagnose why the latch isn't working correctly, since the soft top uses the same rear catch as the hard top.
Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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Ahhh...the rites of spring....the hard tops get stuck....
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#4
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I've learned that moving the lever a couple of time and when I lift I pull to the drivers side is better than a straight lift.
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Eric Boyles 1980 450SL |
#5
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stuck rear top latch?
after releasing front 2 latches (windsheild) and 2 side latches on hardtop. get inside car and try raising top (with head if alone with help if can) use screwdriver, insert at latch and push latch to left. You should have about an inch of room. This shold release latch from locking (notched) pin. After removal, check release cable to latch pin. there is adjustment at the lead sleeve at the lever area. there is a locking small plate that once, undone you can screw lead anchor to take up slack, reassembel lock plate, and test. Note: sometimes the soft top will unlock without difficulty but the hard top wont! probable difference in wear on top pins. good luck, Abe G
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#6
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Hard top stuck
Thank you, everyone for your information on my problems. I'm currently working 7 days a week and 10 hours a day, but as soon as I can muster up enough energy in the evening I will try all of the suggestions.
Again, Thank you. |
#7
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Thanks to this site I was able to remove the hardtop using a bent small diameter rod. See the Gilly method in thread. This worked with a little fussing around, not knowing what I was actually trying to push or release. When the soft top was up and out of the way and the boot in the up position, the cable for the small lever did not throw enough to release the catch. When I pulled on the smaller lever cable you can see the catch move to passenger side to release. The first attempt to wiggle and jiggle before I used the site recommendation, the boot was sprung up with the hoist attempting to pull top up. It MAY be possible that if the front of the hardtop were angled enough and boot up a little, you may be able to pull on this cable with your arm under boot, and release it by pulling. Not sure about this, but if it were doable it would be easier than fiddling with the bent rod or screwdiver method. Initially on the first attempt to remove top and trouble started, the cable moved very freely and I though it just broke. What I found was that repositioning the lock mechanism did the trick. It was a little cocked/twisted, possibly just from age and use. All the same mechanicals are used for locking hart top or rag top. Before I removed the lock set, I marked it with a paint pen. Just a good practice to know were you're starting from. The ceiling hoist is a great tool for the top. If I had plenty of room in garage I would store it for long periods of time on a stand, still using the hoist for removal. There's just something about this thing hanging in air the that may someday contact my head.
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#8
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How to fasten the side pin locks
I just got a hardtop for my 350SL....after years of soft-topping....
The front and rear latches are the same as my soft top...but I don't know how to tighten the two side latches...and believe it or not...I can't find anything on the NET to tell me how to;...or what tool to use to tighten the side latches........ HELP! |
#9
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Tool should be in the tool kit or in the trunk or glovebox someplace, like aluminum handles with a flat blade on the end that engages into the slots on top of the side latches. Screwdrivers will work in a pinch.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#10
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the side latches don't have the same type of slots that the front windshield latches have......??
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#11
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If they don't, they're probably missing the caps. There should be little chromed caps that sit on them and give you the same slot as the front latches. You can get them at the dealer, or I believe they're sold at a few aftermarket places like performanceproducts4benz.com.
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#12
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Quote:
this one?? http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/productpage.aspx?pid=101505&cid=4&sid=464 |
#13
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Yes, that cap should be on the side latches. Has a square hole on the bottom. You probably are looking at a square peg, the cap fits over that peg.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#14
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Leaking 380SL hardtop
Hey guys,
I'm trying to help a neighbor who is 70 and has a 85 380SL he got from his deceased brother. The car has been started weekly and runs ok ![]() ![]() He has the two handles for the front latches, but I know from reading here, there's another kind of latch/wrench used for the side locks. The nuts look like they are rounded but need a different kind of wrench like basin wrench. ![]() The dealer will be happy to supply him with a wrench and fix the leak for the paltry price of 1900 bucks. ![]() For that, I'd ride on the roof and wipe the water off! ![]() But before getting seals we need the wrenches? Got any? Sources? Thanks, Strelnik 180d 240d 220s 220sB |
#15
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Quote:
The wrench for the front latches and the side latches are one and the same. |
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