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  #1  
Old 06-04-2005, 11:45 PM
Strife's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: KY USA
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Valve Stem Seal Question-86 560

I obtained from a supplier and also from an owner some valve stem seals. I was thinking that these would be of different inner diameters for the intake and the exhaust. I had my engine apart recently but I didn't look, and I was just too tired to do them - my car doesn't burn oil (yet). Are the intake and exhaust valve stem seals the same? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 06-05-2005, 10:07 AM
Rayson
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Replaced mine about two years ago and they are the same size.
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  #3  
Old 01-22-2007, 06:07 PM
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Does anyone now the procedure how to change valve seals without removing the heads off? My mechanic claims it is not possible to change valve seals without removing the heads off?

Any opinion on this matter?

Thanks,

Balsa
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  #4  
Old 01-22-2007, 06:59 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 3,538
Remove valve covers first.

Then you have to bring each piston up to TDC. It is best (safest) to use a flywheel Lock, Part Number 116-0140 form Fastlane with the piston being worked on locked at TDC. Pump shop air into the cylinder use a very low pressure, like 30 PSI, if you dont have a flywheel lock and make sure you get the engine as close to TDC as possible otherwise the engine will rotate with the air pressure, and the valves may drop into the cylinder. Belive me, when the valve drops into the cylinder life sucks. Its also best to remove only one plug at a time if you dont have a flywheel lock. You can generally use a compression gauge fitting to attach to your air hose and screw into the head.

Then, remove the rocker arms and rocker guides of both valves for the cylinder being worked on. At this point give the corner of each spring a tap with a rubber mallot to unseat the valve keepers. Now use a spring compressor, making sure the valve does not press down with the valve. Once the valve keepers are clear, remove them with a small screw driver or pocket magnet.

Remove springs and valve seals. Push on new valve seals and reinstall springs and keepers. Repeat this proceedure on each cylinder.

Remove engine lock Reinstall rocker guides and rockers, Install VC gasket and valve cover.

An engine lock makes this save and easy and you can use more shop air pressure to hold the valves.

John Roncallo
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  #5  
Old 01-22-2007, 09:29 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 220
The post above is right on!!!
This is the only way, if you do not want to remove the heads.
It is not nessesary to put seals on the exhaust valves,intake valves are sucking oil into the cilinders if the valve guides are worn.
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  #6  
Old 01-22-2007, 09:41 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 3,538
Speaking of valve steam seals. My 86 560SL does burn a little oil. But when I park it down hill, engine running for any length of time over about 1 minute, it creates a cloud of blue smoke equivolent to that of a bug fogger. Drive off it clears up to almost unoticable when stoped on level ground again. I'v always suspected valve stem seals but I havent really gone in there yet and I thought this was an unusual reaction. To me it seams like some forward return port is clogged. Has anyone ever observed this kind of reaction from valve stem seals.

John Roncallo
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2007, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roncallo View Post
Remove valve covers first.

Then you have to bring each piston up to TDC. It is best (safest) to use a flywheel Lock, Part Number 116-0140 form Fastlane with the piston being worked on locked at TDC. Pump shop air into the cylinder use a very low pressure, like 30 PSI, if you dont have a flywheel lock and make sure you get the engine as close to TDC as possible otherwise the engine will rotate with the air pressure, and the valves may drop into the cylinder. Belive me, when the valve drops into the cylinder life sucks. Its also best to remove only one plug at a time if you dont have a flywheel lock. You can generally use a compression gauge fitting to attach to your air hose and screw into the head.

Then, remove the rocker arms and rocker guides of both valves for the cylinder being worked on. At this point give the corner of each spring a tap with a rubber mallot to unseat the valve keepers. Now use a spring compressor, making sure the valve does not press down with the valve. Once the valve keepers are clear, remove them with a small screw driver or pocket magnet.

Remove springs and valve seals. Push on new valve seals and reinstall springs and keepers. Repeat this proceedure on each cylinder.

Remove engine lock Reinstall rocker guides and rockers, Install VC gasket and valve cover.

An engine lock makes this save and easy and you can use more shop air pressure to hold the valves.

John Roncallo



John, thank you for detailed explanation of the procedure!!! I will give it to my mechanic Could you just explain the term TDC?

Balsa
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2007, 10:08 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 3,538
Quote:
Originally Posted by balsa View Post
John, thank you for detailed explanation of the procedure!!! I will give it to my mechanic Could you just explain the term TDC?

Balsa
TDC = Top Dead Center

John Roncallo
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  #9  
Old 07-08-2007, 01:01 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
flywheel lock

plese tell me how end where do i have to secure the flywheel lock i hope i dont have to remove the starter thanks peter 560sec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roncallo View Post
Remove valve covers first.

Then you have to bring each piston up to TDC. It is best (safest) to use a flywheel Lock, Part Number 116-0140 form Fastlane with the piston being worked on locked at TDC. Pump shop air into the cylinder use a very low pressure, like 30 PSI, if you dont have a flywheel lock and make sure you get the engine as close to TDC as possible otherwise the engine will rotate with the air pressure, and the valves may drop into the cylinder. Belive me, when the valve drops into the cylinder life sucks. Its also best to remove only one plug at a time if you dont have a flywheel lock. You can generally use a compression gauge fitting to attach to your air hose and screw into the head.

Then, remove the rocker arms and rocker guides of both valves for the cylinder being worked on. At this point give the corner of each spring a tap with a rubber mallot to unseat the valve keepers. Now use a spring compressor, making sure the valve does not press down with the valve. Once the valve keepers are clear, remove them with a small screw driver or pocket magnet.

Remove springs and valve seals. Push on new valve seals and reinstall springs and keepers. Repeat this proceedure on each cylinder.

Remove engine lock Reinstall rocker guides and rockers, Install VC gasket and valve cover.

An engine lock makes this save and easy and you can use more shop air pressure to hold the valves.

John Roncallo
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