What to look for and ask: 1984 (I think) 380SL

[Botnst]

Obviously I should clarify the year!

Mrs Bot is giving up her Talon Tsi to our daughter starting college away from home. Mrs Bot likes small cars and has always liked the older SL's. Me too. So I was one parked in a carport with a bunch of people who were drinking beer and boiling crawfish on the driveway. I stopped and introduced myself and asked about the car. The owner wasn't home so I left a card. This was 3-4 weeks ago.

The owner called this afternoon and left a message that she and husband were interested in selling the car and asked me to make an offer if I was interested. Said they were the second owners and have had it 4 years.

Lapis lazuli color inside and out. Exterior has some door dings but the paint is still shiney and intact, despite being 20 years old. The seats were worn but not torn or cracked. Carpet is badly worn by the gas pedal. Carpet was also stained various uncomplementary hues of blue and brown and black. No dash cracks that I could see. The top was down when I saw it but the owners say it's in good shape as is the original hard top.

I've read a bunch of posts concerning the timing chain issue so I'll definitely check that one. If they don't have a receipt, is there any way to tell whether it's been changed to double rows?

The car sits level on a flat surface.

125K miles on the odo.

I don't know if it's a std or auto, I forgot to check. Wife likes std so that might eliminate it if it's an automatic. She is out of town for a few days so I'm waiting for input from her (and you!) before I make an inspection or courtesy call to let them know I'm not interested.

The lady sounded real sweet and a bit older than me (60-ish) on the phone. Their yard is one of those that you feel like taking you shoes off to walk in, it is that neat and trimmed. I'm hoping that's how they feel about their car, too.

[GermanMarque]

Regarding timing chain, if it's had the conversion, it should have the double row timing chain. Easiest way is remove the oil filler cap and shine a torch in and look for two rows of chains. Std or auto, std that must be USA speak for manual gearbox, not sexually transmitted disease! Only the Euro model 107's came out with a five speed box. So would presume it's a US complianced auto. Look for rust! The sills at the front and rear jacking points. The front sub frame inboard of the front wheels, it's sort of a dog leg and at the bottom is a rubber bung. Pull out the bung and poke your finger in there. If there are big "goolies" or chunks of rust fall out, run away. Also behind the headlights is another trouble spot. Check the underside of the hard top near the vent holes under the rubber weather strip. If there's rust there it's very very costly to repair. You stated the top was off, so thats easy. Delamination of the front/rear laminated screens with age. Check the soft top firstly to ensure it has one, it's condition and the compatrment it lives in for rust. Lift all floor mats, as a convertable, it's subject to the elements and if the mats got soaked and not dried properly rust in the cabin floor. Obviously service/log books/receipts for work done. Check plastic radiator holding tank for coolant and lack of any oily deposits in the water. Remove oil filler cap and check underside for any sign of creamy white gunk, indicated water in oil. Remove auto trans dipstick and smell fluid, it should smell pleasant not be dark and burnt smelling which indicated possible problems or lack of maintenence. Take someone who is familiar with Mercs to check it, peculiar beasties that do require more knowledge than normal people movers. If it's auto look for a Euro 280SL with the 5 speed, more power, better on fuel and a little more fun with the manual box. Good luck and may you get a wealth of information from other owners on this post .

[RickM]

I posted the blurb below for a friend on a Porsche forum. Hopefully it'll help.

Note: Excellent advice on getting a good PPI by a tech who knows these cars...


"The 380 had a single row timing chain up until 1984. It was then updated to a double row. Doing this update is quite costly. Appox $3k here in the US. However, there is still maintenance with the dual row as there are guides and tensioners that should be maintained....not nearly as costly though.

Here's a list common replacement items:

- Since these cars are far from lightweight all suspension pieces suffer after so many years. Especially if sitting unused. So if not replaced RECENTLY figure on Shocks (Bilstein), Subframe bushings, ball joints, springs...etc.

- Fuel injection system on 81 and up...it's the wonderful Bosch CIS system. Not unlike the 911 you will have cold/warm/hot start problems. As usual many throw thousands chasing idle, start and missing problems.

- Climate control - This has to be the most unneccessarily complicated system I've ever seen in my life. And they will all develop problems. It is absolutely unintuitive as well. To make it more fun it's all vacuum operated with vacuum actuators buried behind the dash. They can be rebuilt inexpensively but getting to them and getting to the right one is the challenge. The Monovalve is a common piece in the heating system to go. Luckily it's inexpensive and quikly replaced.

- Rust - Not the worst cars regarding this. However, the older you get the more prone you are to suffering.

- Convertible top...Very simple mechanical setup. I like it. Hard top same thing...well done.

- Interior....Dash cracks can be a problem. Seems blue cracks the most.

- Radiators also have issues, especially with a plastic filler neck. Once they break it's almost impossible to repair and not cheap to replace.

- Radio...by Becker. I'll say no more.

Like any other car the better it's been maintained by the PO the better for you.

Overall I really enjoy the car...for what it is. It's not a fast car. Rather a convertible cruiser that retains that old world luxury roadster feel. The Euro car that seems to be very desirable is the 500SL as well as some of the sixes.

If you're looking for a more collectible model then go with a 113 chassis SL. I believe from 63 through 72 here in the US. We had the 230,250 and 280 SL. Like the 911 the first examples had smaller engines but were lighter and didn't have to incorporate emission equipment. Theses are very prone to rust and are very basic cars comparatively speaking. But beautiful and collectible."

[230/8]

This is a good source of backgroud info on the 107s: http://home.hiwaay.net/~gbf/107/rt.html

Others have given you good guidance on what to look for; here's my two-cents:

I recall that the timing chain was corrected late in the '83 model year, so your '84 should have the double. Look inside the oil cap with a small mirror and light. If it has over 100K miles, check for replacments of the chain, tensioner and guides, or plan on having it done.

Check for a maintenance and repair history. This is worth more than anyting else when looking for a car. Also, look for a pristine interior. Seats, carpet and door panels are easy to replace, but the other soft parts like dash, console and crash padding is costly and in some case not available. Others have different opinions on radios, but I believe the Beckers are basically good and under-rated. Look for the original radio and if it needs repair Becker will do it for a reasonable cost.

Personally, I like the early '72 and '73 cars with their small bumpers and simple AC systems. They are not trouble free, but sure look trim and graceful compared to the cow-catcher bumpers of '74 and later cars. In this regard, maybe looking at a euro-280 or 350 or 500 would be an option? The cars are basically the same world-wide, have good performance compared to the de-toxed US imports and parts are available from several sources.

Some things to consider...

FWIW,

230/8

[Botnst]

Thanks, folks. I printed ya'll's advice and will carry it with me if Mrs. Bot wants to go for it.

Bot

[rickjordan]

If the present owners don't know if the chains have been done and the flashlight and miror trick doesn't work, pull the valve cover off. You'll need a 10mm socket. Pull the passenger side cover off, as the other one requires disconnecting more stuff to remove.
I tried looking at the chains on our SL throught the oil cap, but couldn't see it, so I pull the cover off. Mine had the chains and new guides.