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#16
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I recently had to replace the front subframe on my '82 380SL because the left lower control arm mounts broke off, and I found a 115 chassis subframe was almost identical. The difference is that the small 1" or so holes underneath the front motormounts to access the bolt were not drilled. It was necessary to drill them using a holesaw to install the motor mounts to the engine. I also used the left front lower control arm from the 115. I think it was a 1969 280D that the parts came off of. I purchased the subframe strengthening kit from Mercedes and welded the reinforcing tabs on the "new" subframe. If I had to do it over again, I think I would buy a new subframe from Performance Products or one of the other suppliers, as the new ones are made much stronger in the control arm mount area. I didn't look under my '79 until I had done the change, though. (The '79 has the new subframe installed.)
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Richard Wooldridge '01 ML320 '82 300D 4.3L V6/T700R4 conversion '82 380SL, '86 560SL engine/trans. installed '79 450SL, digital servo update '75 280C |
#17
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Quote:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46389 John Roncallo |
#18
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John and others,
Many thanks for your comments on this ball joint question. I am still hoping someone reading can offer some insight, having used these (or other) tools to replace lower balljoints on a Model 126. Again, I am only concerned because of the LBJ being 'buried' in a concavity in the spindle. They are notoriously difficult to access, specifically to effect a 'straight press' line of force in pressing the new joint in. Looks like getting the old one out would be easy - of course this is my worry! Has anyone done a 126 with these tools? TIA, Lou |
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