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#1
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420 Sel
HELLO EVRYONE; IM NEW TO THE SIGHT,I JUST BOUGHT A 1989 420 SEL,IT HAS 163,000 MILES ON IT.I PAID $400.00,THE CAR IS VERY NICE,THE PAINT IS EXCELLENT FOR THE YEAR,A FEW MINOR SCRATCHES ON IT,NO DENTS,THE INTERIOR IS VERY NICE WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE DRIVERS SEAY HAS A SMALL TEAR IN IT.EVERYTHING WORKS ON IT,I DID HAVE TO PUT A RADIATOR IN IT,THE ENGINE SOUNDS VERY STRONG,IT DOES NOT SMOKE,BUT THE TIMING CHAIN STORIES I HEAR ARE KIND OF SCARING ME,HOW CAN I CHECK IF IT HAS BEEN DONE,I DONT HEAR ANY RATTLES IN THE ENGINE.SHOULD I REMOVE THE VALVE COVERS? I DID BUY A NEW TENSIONER BUT IM SCARED TO CHANGE IT. I WOULD LOVE TO HEAR YOUR OPINIONS.
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#2
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You can measure the stretch on the chain by aligning the marks on the cam sprockets and observing the timing on the crank pulley, but that's almost as much trouble as changing it. If you don't hear a rattle at start-up, though, the chain is probably OK.
But the real danger is the plastic rails that support the chain. The end of the rail on the driver's side breaks off, jams itself between the chain and the sprocket, the chain jumps a tooth, and with the engine out of time, the valves bounce off the pistons and bend their stems. No symptoms that this is coming. Not a good thing. In your case, someone did it at 100K and you are OK until 200K, or you are really living on borrowed time. Sounds like a nice car. I recommend that you replace the plastic pieces on the cam oil tubes, the tensioner, the chain and the three upper rails. Its a good wrench to do yourself, and about a grand if you have it done. A picture of the driver's side head that came off a 420 that I fixed will illustrate the problem. You can also see the broken rail.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#3
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And ...
Please don't type all in CAPS, it makes us think YOU'RE SHOUTING.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#4
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Thank you CTaylor
Thanks for the advice, the car is so nice im afraid to make the wrong decision on it,but i think i will go ahead and do the chain and rails, by the way sorry about the caps lock.
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#5
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You also want to change the tensioner rail and cam oiler fittings. If you have never done this before, I recomend you purchase the chain installation tool as well as the pin removal tool. Or you can check out the tool swap forum to see if you can borrow or rent them.
John Roncallo |
#6
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Thanks for not shouting.
The tool that Roncallo mentions comes in two flavors: a slide puller, and a screw version. Definitely get the screw version because you just can't get the pins out with the slider. This one is OK if you are only going to do one or two cars. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Guide-Rail-Pin-Puller-For-Mercedes-Benz-1712_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ002QQitemZ4645375150QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V If you want the procedure off the CD, send me an email.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
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