Help with 560SL purchase - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sokoloff · #1 01-19-2007, 08:07 PM

Got a neighbor who is selling his '87 560SL. He's was asking $25,000, now it's $20,000 and I think that's still about $5000 too high. I'd like some input on the price from those of you who have recently been looking at real world prices.

He's the second owner and has had it for about twelve years I think. Car has about 45,000 mles on it and AFAIK, it's been a nice weather car, although it did come from NJ. From what I've seen of the car, it is in pretty pristine condiiton. I suspect that he will let me have the car in my garage for a day or two so I can crawl around under it and give it a good looking over. I might do a compression test on it too. I'll have to ask, but I suspect that routine maintenance like fluid changes, rubber replacement, suspension and brake work, etc. are not up to date and will need to be done.

So what specifically should I be looking for when I give this car a PPI? Is there a problem with the plastic oiler tubes on this engine? Could there be a problem already with the mileage this low? How about the price?

Thanks - if I get it home for a look, I'll post some photos.

Len

Strife · #2 01-19-2007, 08:27 PM

Unless the F/R motor mounts, F/R subframe mounts, and every speck of body sealing has been changed, and the (original) paint is absolutely 100%great, and the upper guides and tensioner, and oil tube fittings have neen replaced (all the above recently), and there is not a scratch on the bumpers covers and the brightwork isn't starting to turn white, I think this is STILL too much, never mind any other mechanical aspects. There's several thousand dollars between a 95% great car and a 99% great car, and that last one percent is a lot more than that. Have it moved to a spot of clean concrete after being driven. Look several hours later for leaks (bet it does!).

eBay is actually a pretty good gauge of what people are willing to pay. Things are down now but I attribute a lot of that to winter.

Just peeking at eBay, the only cars that command that kind of money are fully maintained and from CA/FL. The color might make a difference - black and red seem to get premiums.

Roncallo · #3 01-19-2007, 08:46 PM

Search in this forum for "Cool artical on 107's" . Iv posted several values I recently looked up for 55K mile 88 560SL and other data. A 45K mile 560 will be worth more but not much more.

In the data I presented form KBB the 107 prices were very low compared to the average listed asking price for Auto Trader. I belive the truth is somewhere in between. KBB has very little data on 560SL in the under 75,000 mile range.

As far as your cam oilers and guide rails. I belive these should be changed every 10 years reguarless of milage.

Things to look for that are not generally obvious with a good eyeball and road test.

1) Does it have a cracked dash or does it have a dash cap.
2) Does the heater and AC blower work (muliple problems can cause this, most comon is the push buttom)
3) Does cold air blow out the center vents with the AC on (generally requires dash removal to fix)
4) Do the doors have a slight rattle when closed (Usually means new windows or window repair)
5) Is there a twang noise in the door when opening or shutting the windows (generally means it needs new window regulators)
6) Does the low fuel indicator light come on with < 1/4 tank (fuel sensor)
7) Any oil leaks at the rear of the engine (may look like a rear main seal leak but more likely a head gasket)

Most of the other stuff that goes wrong should be fairly obvious or reasonably routine in service cost.

John Roncallo

deanyel · #4 01-20-2007, 10:08 AM

It's generally futile to even talk to anyone who is that unrealistic.

lynns · #5 01-20-2007, 10:50 PM

I have had two 560SL's for a total of 10 years. I bought one in 6/99 with 30K and sold it 7/06 with 80K. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lynnsorensen1/slideshow?.dir=/bbfcscd&.src=ph

Pay attention to the following.

1) Has the Behr radiator been replaced. The upper plastic kneck is known to crack and can cost $750.00. If the radiator has been relpaced. Was it with a Behr? No aftermarket, please.

2) Make sure that the center A/C vents are functioning. The center vent accuator's are known to fail. The inner diaphragms are made of rubber and get old due to environmental factors. I had mine repaired without removing the dash by a knwlegeable INDY for $450.00.

3) Check the rear main seal for leaks. I understand that all older MB leak. I did not fix mine because it only leaked a couple of occasional drops to a garage carpet and the cost of the repair.

4) Sub-frame and motor mounts have already been addressed.

Bottom line - plastic and rubber parts age due to environmental factors such as heat and Ozone. There is really not much that can be done to alleveate this except routine maintainence and $$$$$'s spent. Check to see if the person that owns the car can show you a list of maintainence that includes date, mileage, and description of what was done at repair. If they don't have the list and receipts then buyer beware.

ctaylor738 · #6 01-21-2007, 11:54 AM

If the car has good maintenance records, I wouldn't worry about the engine at 45K. There should be zero chain or lifter noise at cold start or any other time. As pointed out, the heating and AC should work perfectly, the tranny should shift perfectly, and the car should drive tight as a drum, and not leak anything. It is easy to spot a collapsed motor mount and you will feel a virbration from it, not so easy to find other rubber problems.

I would get it checked out by someone with expertise with the 107's.

I think a price around 15K would be a small bargain if it gets a clean bill of health, but you would expect its value to decline as you drive it.

airedale · #7 01-22-2007, 05:01 AM

Check this story out!
http://www.oursl.com/NewsLetter/NL0701/BlackBlack.htm

ctaylor738 · #8 01-22-2007, 08:23 AM

One thing that Mr. Spencer fails to mention is that with the new chassis and engine, most problems mean take it to a dealer or a high-end independent. All the diagnostics are OBD1 and OBD2, which means you need a code reader or computer program.

The worst things that can happen to a 107 like the ACC going south are chump change compared to a 129. The M129 also suffers from a variety of afflictions like blown-out oil tubes. It has eight coils at like $75 apiece, and the injectors are over $300 each. Pre-1996 cars suffer the dreaded biodegradable wiring harness problem, a $1500 repair.

I am learning about this stuff with my S500 coupe. I am blogging on the Vintage Forum,

Notes from beyond the Dark Side

airedale · #9 01-22-2007, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctaylor738

One thing that Mr. Spencer fails to mention is that with the new chassis and engine, most problems mean take it to a dealer or a high-end independent. All the diagnostics are OBD1 and OBD2, which means you need a code reader or computer program.

The worst things that can happen to a 107 like the ACC going south are chump change compared to a 129. The M129 also suffers from a variety of afflictions like blown-out oil tubes. It has eight coils at like $75 apiece, and the injectors are over $300 each. Pre-1996 cars suffer the dreaded biodegradable wiring harness problem, a $1500 repair.

I am learning about this stuff with my S500 coupe. I am blogging on the Vintage Forum,

Notes from beyond the Dark Side

Correct me if I am wrong but $1800.00 plus circuit boards on the M129 sport cars if all else does not fail?

nhdoc · #10 01-22-2007, 09:19 AM

If you buy a super low mileage car like that one and actually drive it then it will lose all of that premium value very quickly. The thing about these cars is you're much better off finding a nice, well maintained one or two owner car that has 100K miles on it than a low mileage one, IMHO. Many of the things that go wrong with them have nothing to do with mileage and have everything to do with time and deterioration. In fact, the worst thing you can do to a car is let it sit undriven.

If you think a low mileage one will cost less to own than one with 100K miles forget it...they will both be costly to own unless you do the work yourself, even then it will not be cheap. I guess what I am saying is you can buy a really nice one with some more miles for $10-$15K that if you take care of it will be worth close to that anytime. You spend $20K on this one and put some miles on it and it will be worth $10-$15K too but you'll still be putting the same money into it to drive it.

sokoloff · #11 01-22-2007, 11:25 AM

Good points Marty. My guess is that this car will be driven less than 5,000 miles/year. My thinking on low mileage is that the interior/exterior ought to be close to pristine with a low mileage version. I should probably expect various leaks to occur from little/no use and also to have to replace most of the rubber components at this age. Tough call. Don't know if having all the cosmetics in great shape is worth the extra premium. I know it won't cost less to own. In fact it may cost more, but if it needs no interior or exterior sprucing up, that's a plus.

Len