Torn upper ball joint boots..how hard to replace them?

[nhdoc]

I noticed both of my upper ball joint boots were torn in my '88 560SL, the damage is fresh and the BJs seem OK. I know the boots are available from MB so my question is...how hard is it to replace them? Do I need to remove the entire upper control arm or can I just remove the nut, remove the BJ from the spindle using a pickle fork and repack and replace the boot that way with no further disassembly? Anyone done this? I'd rather not wait until the joints go bad and then have to spend $300-$400 each for new control arms with the new joints if I can save these.

[Roncallo]

Originally Posted by nhdoc

I noticed both of my upper ball joint boots were torn in my '88 560SL, the damage is fresh and the BJs seem OK. I know the boots are available from MB so my question is...how hard is it to replace them? Do I need to remove the entire upper control arm or can I just remove the nut, remove the BJ from the spindle using a pickle fork and repack and replace the boot that way with no further disassembly? Anyone done this? I'd rather not wait until the joints go bad and then have to spend $300-$400 each for new control arms with the new joints if I can save these.

Yes you can do this except I wouldent use a pickel fork. If you look on e-bay you will find plenty of venders that sell a tool that will do this for < $50.00. It is a tool that uses a driving bolt to leaver it out.

John Roncallo

[nhdoc]

Originally Posted by Roncallo

Yes you can do this except I wouldent use a pickel fork. If you look on e-bay you will find plenty of venders that sell a tool that will do this for < $50.00. It is a tool that uses a driving bolt to leaver it out.

John Roncallo

Thanks...now I seen that tool. It is MB 115 589 02 33 00. It looks like it uses a bolt to push the ball joint out. Do you know if you have to disconnect the brake hose to replace the boot or will the knuckle drop far enough to allow the end of the ball joint to be free without pulling on it? I see the procedure for replacing the upper control arm calls for the removal of the brake hose but I didn't know if I had to do it to just get the boot off.

[JPMOSE]

I have this same problem with my 560SL. One option is to pack a lot of grease around the cracked boot to prevent moisture from entering in....this is a quick fix. Every couple of months I clean off the old grease and apply new.....so far so good! At some point, I will just give in and replace the upper control arm. I have funded both my Mercedes by selling vintage cameras....I may have to give in and sell some more to finish off everything I want to do!

[nhdoc]

Originally Posted by JPMOSE

I have this same problem with my 560SL. One option is to pack a lot of grease around the cracked boot to prevent moisture from entering in....this is a quick fix. Every couple of months I clean off the old grease and apply new.....so far so good! At some point, I will just give in and replace the upper control arm. I have funded both my Mercedes by selling vintage cameras....I may have to give in and sell some more to finish off everything I want to do!

I ordered the boots yesterday and will do the replacement and report back next week on how hard or easy it was. The ball joints are OK and I don't see the point in spending $700+ for new control arms to replace $25 worth of rubber bits, so I decided to simply replace the boots and repack the ball joints with fresh grease while I am at it.

Funny you mention vintage cameras...check out my website: www.minoxdoc.com

[JPMOSE]

Interesting Marty! My 250SL was purchased selling 4 Linhofs, 2 Leicas, 1 Rolleiflex and several Zeiss lenses (including two Superachromats). I sometimes miss the equipment but still kept my one Linhof (plus I have the extremely rare Technika-Flex attachment), five Hasselblads and two Leicas (plus several Graflex cameras). Sadly, I don't take photos and get into the darkroom like I used to...but it is all still there for my return someday!

[Strife]

Originally Posted by nhdoc

Thanks...now I seen that tool. It is MB 115 589 02 33 00. It looks like it uses a bolt to push the ball joint out. Do you know if you have to disconnect the brake hose to replace the boot or will the knuckle drop far enough to allow the end of the ball joint to be free without pulling on it? I see the procedure for replacing the upper control arm calls for the removal of the brake hose but I didn't know if I had to do it to just get the boot off.

Through incredible luck, I actually obtained a genuine 115 589 02 33 00 tool at a good price. Unfortunately, in order to use it, you have to do things "by the book" - remove the steering knuckle (because it gets in the way of the bolt), the brake hose, and (possibly) the wires. You have to remove BOTH the upper and lower ball joint nuts. Because I'm not really a very good mechanic, but good at following instructions, I plan on doing this by the book, which also involves replacing the mount for the brake hose guide, which is folded up to lock the bolts for the steering knuckle. On safety stuff, I'd rather spend the money and not worry. My ball joints and boots seem OK on this car, but all the suspension stuff seems to have gone to h#$@ in one summer - I have to replace among other things the upper control arm bushings.