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#1
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Did My First Oil Change on my 560SL
Well I did my first oil change on my 88 SL today. I put in Mobil 1 15w50 cause it's hot down here in South Texas. Got to use my 14mm allen wrench!!
I looked under the car a few minutes ago and noticed about a dime sized drop of oil on garage floor just under oil filter bolt and it was a little wet. Gave it a bit more torque (tightened the bolt about 3/4 or an inch or so) and drove around a bit. I will be checking later...guess I was afraid to torque too much. Car is running great though! I do miss the topside oil filter location of my 300SD however. |
#2
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Did you put a new seal washer under the plug? As I remember, a new copper gasket came with the oil filter kit that I bought. If not, you can get soft copper or aluminum seal washers at Advance Auto.
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#3
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Make sure that you do include the new copper washer....otherwise it will seep.....also, be careful not to over tighten the bolt.....
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#4
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Oil Change
Just courious, I asked the mechanic who did my 88 560 SL PPI and asked him about Mobile 1 15-50 and he said the Castrol 20-50 would be just fine. Would changing to Mobile 1 with 142,000 present any problems? I use Mobile 1 5-30 in my '04 Toyota Tundra and change it every 3500 miles. Thanks for any feedback concerning syn vs dino.
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#5
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Go to Synthetic Mobil 1, 15W-50! My '92 500 SL has 168K on the ODO and it is running great and leak free!!!!!!!!!!
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__________________
roadkingmike@aol.com Coast Aero Support Services, LLC '92 MB 500 SL '01 BMW 525i Sport '98 Harley Davidson RoadKing '74 BMW 3.0 CSi - Gone to a good home |
#6
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Quote:
Like Mike, in my 129 I run M1, but in my 560SL, it's Castrol 20W50. Very different engines, very different oils. While this may kick off the dino vs synthetic debate, do what your tech suggests. Bob
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Bob Jones Bradenton, FL '87 560SL-Sold '99 SL500 For Now |
#7
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Thanks to both of you! Dino every 3000. I did the oil & Filter change two weekends ago and was amazed at what I saw. First, oil and filter pretty easy just make sure you have a container that can handle the flow. Second, after pulling out oil cartridge I looked into container and I was very very disappointed in the lack of professionalism in dealership mechanic. Basically the gunk in the bottom of container. You would think at $75-$80 labor rate this person could have taken 5 minutes to swirl some gas and use a brush to remove gunk, basically the time it took me to clean inside of container. This is why I have a healthy distrust of professionals. If I can do this at $0 dollars an hour why can't they at $80? This is why I try and do everything possible myself. Why am I paying $80 an hour for a job I can do better myself. I guess I was expecting a higher level of service with a Mercedes especially concerning this Dealership but unfortunately I'm back to learning how to do procedures to my standards not theirs.
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#8
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How many quarts did it take to fill the 560SL? I own 560sel and they take 8 quarts and the 560sl needed 10 quarts. I was surprised it needed so much. I dont have the specs for the car so I just filled up to the mark. I do notice that the pans are different between the SL ans the SEL.
__________________
I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave 78 Corvette Stingray - 3k 82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k 86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k 87 420sel - 240k 89 560sl - 78k 91 420sel - 205k 91 560sel - 85k 94 GMC Suburban - 90k 97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k 00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k |
#9
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My 1988 560SL owners manual states 8.5 qts which I put back in. I tried to find 15-40 but could only get 10-40 Valvoline which is what dealership has been using. I will probably switch to Castrol GTX 20-50. Rarely gets below 50 degress F in Encinitas CA. I took it to local Indy Shop today to have the following done :1. Drain and refill diff. 2. Drain and refill Trans and TC with new filter and gasket. 3. Drain and refill Block and Radiator with MB coolant. Previous owner had new Behr Radiator installed but for some reason they used green coolant? I told shop I want MB coolant. 4. Drain and refill Brake Fluid with MB Brake Fluid. 5. Inspect and advise on Motor Mounts and Subframe Mounts and any other driveline components reaching end of life. My goal is to replace every single component on this car so I can enjoy it for the next 20 years.
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#10
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You should also consider replacing the power steering fluid. It's a straightforward process, and recommended in service intervals. Also, there is a filter in the power steering reservoir that should be replaced. For other fluids, any good DOT 4 brake fluid is fine, and for coolant, Zerex G-05 is the correct antifreeze/coolant for Mercedes (they supply it to M-B, it's produced by Ashland/Valvoline). Your Indy will save you some bucks by not buying from a M-B dealer. Interesting that you plan to replace every component. You probably mean every worn component. Good luck and enjoy your great car!
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#11
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Thanks for the info Alkraut, the Indy has all MB Fluids and some OEM parts on display which I find reassuring. From what I have read these are cars worth hanging on to and treating with respect. If the original parts have gone 19 yrs and 142,000 miles then regardless of their OEM prices you get your moneys worth! They also fit like a glove! This particular car has soul, its previous owner drove it, garaged it, and maintained it at dealership for the last 10 yrs. I will post pictures soon because it looks and is almost brand new. My neighbor has 5 MBs from 1961 to 2005 and he really wanted this one but couldn't store a 6th. He told me to buy it so he could admire it. I bought it for my wife for her Birthday and she is almost unseparable from the car.
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