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#1
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Engine not starting: Opinions needed
Hi folks,
By coincidence with 300maniac's '88 560sl Ignition stall post, I am having almost the same issues. My problem has also been getting worse within the last few weeks. I will explain the symptoms and what I have done to track it down, and you can tell me your thoughts. The car usually starts good when cold (except for one time) and runs good. When hot, it will usually start immediately but if let set for a few minutes will not start, but after letting it sit for a half hour or so will start. Opening the hood seems to allow it to start better (releasing heat I would guess). Most of the time it runs great, but once in a while will miss at idle or on acceleration. Sometimes when sitting there idling it just quits like the key is shut off, might restart, might not. When it will not start, there is definitely no spark out of the ignition coil, but there is 12V power to the coil. The spark mysteriously reappears after some cranking and/or waiting. No jiggling of wires or connectors seems to pinpoint the problem. I have also checked the ignition module ground wire for proper grounding. I replaced the ignition coil, as I have seen them do really goofy things when hot, but it did not fix the problem. I disconnected the inputs and outputs to the EZL (ignition module) to isolate it including the coolant sensor (which was replaced previously), wide open throttle sensor (which was replaced previously), wire connected to the TD signal of the module, and even the reference resistor once (checked out OK). It did not fire yet, but then all of the sudden did and ran good again. So my conclusion is that it either has to be the crankshaft position sensor or the EZL (ignition module) as I don't have any tools to test them and have eliminated all other circuits. What do you guys think? Does the EZL ever go bad? For that price, over $2000 , I would hope not. Or is it the sensor? I would think a sensor would either be good or bad, but from what I've been reading on this site, that is not the case with this sensor. Before spending $225 on a sensor I want to get some second opinions. Also, the front sensor does not need to be replaced as far as I can tell, correct? Looks like only the rear sensor is wired into the ignition circuit, and the front one is only used for diagnostic purposes. Unfortunately I only have a couple week to get it fixed as I am wanting to take it to a cruise night I have been planning to go to for a year, so any ideas would be appreciated. |
#2
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It seems to me that the EZL is the culprit (overheat) But $2,000 for an EZL is way overpriced. Yes the EZL goes bad that's why I buy them off the wreacking yards & ship them abroad.
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#3
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You can find ignition modules used for $200 or less. I am reasonably certain that any 420 or 560 unit will work. In fact, I recall a post stating that the 420 was somewhat better because it has a more agressive advance curve.
But, to help you out. I will have to check, but I believe that I have an EZL module that I took off my 560 because it caused pinging. But it would certainly get your car running. If I still have it, I will loan it to you as a dianostic tool. Email me if interested.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#4
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These guys http://4mercedes.com/index.htm rebuild EZLs.
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#5
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Quote:
Thanks ctaylor738, I will keep that offer in mind. Currently the car is running, and usually only fails to start during a period 10 minutes or so after it is shut off hot, then 45 minutes to an hour after that it starts right up and runs great. I'm concerned it will get worse and leave me stranded , or worse yet, stop on the highway. Dugald, I will make note of the rebuilder. Any experience with them? |
#6
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Yes. I sent them mine for rebuild but it was deemed unrepairable. I bought a rebuilt unit from them instead. Worked fine. They provide a 2 year warranty if you also replace the coil, which they sold me for a reasonable $70.
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#7
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I know it is an old thread but did ever found the problem with your car?
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