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  #1  
Old 10-27-2010, 04:28 PM
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subframe mystery parts

My mechanic just replaced my front subframe bushings. 87 560SL. There are 4 "C" shaped spring clips in the kit that did not exist on my car and so he did not use them. What are they? Are they for another year of SL? Do they need to be installed?
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2010, 12:03 AM
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I think they are used on a W116 (older sedan?) to help hold the nut, which you don't need on the W107.
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2010, 06:45 AM
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They are more of a tool than a component part for the subframe mounts.. As Strife pointed out it is to retain the nut in place. Once installed it can be left in place or removed.

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  #4  
Old 10-28-2010, 02:55 PM
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Thanks guys. Now I can sleep nights. Is this a great forum or what? Even pictures? wow. Thanks
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  #5  
Old 10-30-2010, 01:12 PM
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More mystery parts sl560 subframe bushings

I replaced my subframe bushings yesterday, and also got stuck with the C shaped springs, I am also lost as to where the white plastic rings go. My car drives very rough now when I accelerate, suspension is good, but noise is not, any suggestions.
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  #6  
Old 10-30-2010, 01:46 PM
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The white funnels (stop buffer for deflection) it is installed on the mount prior to assembly on the subframe, (it has the same shape as the inner side of the mount) with the narrow end pointing downwards to go through the hole on the subframe cup. It was a MB revision for the subframe mounts to prevent the aluminium core to rub against the hole on the subframe, originally it was not installed. It applies to all 107, 114 and 115 models.

Could you elaborate on "My car drives very rough now when I accelerate"?
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  #7  
Old 10-30-2010, 07:15 PM
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Sounds rough

When I accelerate, apply gas, it sounds horrible, it vibrates, and sounds like something might be hitting something, at idle everything is fine, and once I maintain a certain speed everything sounds fine also, but when I accelerate, ROARRRRR, Also stationary and lots of rev's no problem, sounds fine then.

Many Thanks,
Jacco
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  #8  
Old 10-30-2010, 07:48 PM
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Vibrations and rough sound after subframe bushing replacement

At idle all runs well, when at constant speed all is well also. When accelerating it roarrs like my neighbors suped up Mustang. The vibrations and sound seem to come from the right hand side of the car. Does something hit something?

Engine Damper? Something wrong with the right Shock absorber? Motor mounts? All look OK

I will lift the car up again tomorrow morning and run it to see if I can see anything. The bushings are all in correct, but I need to get rid of these new vibrations and roaring sounds.

Many thanks,
Jacco
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  #9  
Old 10-31-2010, 02:00 PM
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Lifted the car up again today, replaced some more old rubber, sound and vibrations are a little less. Its not the exhaust, all rubber looks good, there is enough clearance everywhere. I am at a loss, what else can be affected by lowering the engine (we only lowered it by 2 or so inches so we could just wrestle the new mounts in. It drove very smooth before we did the work, and now its horrible, mostly when accelerating.

Thanks,
Jacco
88 560sl 132K have had it for 5 years.
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  #10  
Old 10-31-2010, 02:10 PM
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The engine should have never been lowered but only the subframe. If you actually lowered the engine this would have put tremendous strain on the transmission mount which could have ripped the mount altogether, hence the vibration as well as the centre bearing mount on the driveshaft and the flex disks. In addition the viscofan would have hit the bottom of the cawl and the cooling hoses of tranny fluid could have been bent. I suggest to take a good look at the mount on the tranny and engine mounts.
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  #11  
Old 10-31-2010, 04:50 PM
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We will check the transmission mounts, couplers etc, when I hold my hand on the shifter there are no vibrations there, but we did not lower the engine, (my fault if I said so in the previous post, that would not have worked anyway) I will bring the car to a "certified" mechanic tomorrow and put it on a lift to see what we "broke" When there is no strain on the engine all is fine, just when you engage the transmission things go wrong. Appreciate your insights.

Many thanks,
Jacco
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2010, 01:42 PM
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Very lucky

I guess I know where the vibrations came from....looks like the bolts on one wheel where not tightend correctly. I drove the car from Princeton to Newark airport and back, 110 miles or so, Stuff really started to shake on the way back, I made it home, but the next day when I backed it out of the garage 12 feet! the front left wheel came off. 2 broken bolts, 2 missing bolts and one stripped bolt.....I was very lucky that this did not happen on the interstate. I ordered a 12x1.5 tap to re thread the holes in the wheel hub, and am picking up 5 new bolts at the local Mercedes dealer tomorrow, I will also try to remove the broken bolts tomorrow, I hope not too much else is damaged.

Stupid,
JK
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2010, 05:22 PM
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Your insights where very helpfull. as you may have guessed, I need some replacement parts, left front wheel hub is the most important one, I can find a wheel, rotors are no problem, and I have the tie rod's in stock, do you know where I can find a hub, and what is a reasonable price (there is one one ebay for 199 right now -is that reasonable price?) I also need 5 "long" bolts, I went to the local Mercedes dealer and they gave me these stubby 2 inch things..... that does not work on my car.

Your insights are highly appreciated,
JK
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  #14  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:01 PM
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It was unfortunate you forgot to tighten the wheel bolts once you finished the mounts. An oversight that could have been far worst given that you drove the car with loose bolts!! But it was good you found what the problem was a nothing serious happened. Metal parts can be replaced!!.

The original wheel bolts PN 1264000070 are non longer available from MB due to a tendency of the bolt to shear off. It was replaced by PN 1264010670 or 1084010070, shorter in terms of overall length but the same 40mm from the flange (which seems to be the ones you obtained from MB). However, Febi Bilsten and Meyle they still manufacture the long bolt but strengthened by 1mm at the head stem, and they are available on Ebay.

The used hub on ebay at $199 is inordinately expensive for a 25 years old hub when a new one would cost you just $41more!. It would be good if you replace the front bearings on both sides at the same time. When you start a project on these cars you never know when to stop!!.
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:20 PM
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New OE. 167.90. I listed the PN in your other thread.
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