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#1
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I don't know where it is physically located on your vehicle, but if it's an automatic, check the nuetral safety switch. It prevents cranking unless the car is in nuetral or park. Early 90's cars have issues with the ignition switch. There is a lot in the archives on that problem. Use the search tool. Welcome to the forum and good luck.
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Resistance is Futile. |
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#2
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TIA, Matt |
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#3
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Well, probably not the NSS, as the car cranks OK most of the time, no? Some guys have reported that moving the steering column up/down or in/out while in the "dead" mode would restore power. This is indicative of a bad ignition switch. Moving the column flexes the switch mount and wires.
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Resistance is Futile. |
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#4
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By the way, thanks so much for the efforts thus far-I really appreciate it! The cranking no-start is annoying, but otherwise not going to kill me. I'm leaning towards an ignition switch fault for that, one of the keys faulted it the other day, and then another key immediately started the car. This was after a key-in-door locking cycle, the car locked normally, but did not unlock normally-just the doors unlocked, and the key I used got it to crank, but not start. Switching keys solved, as soon as I put the second key in all of the central locking popped open and the car started. What's frightening me is the dead-car phenomenon. Once running, my understanding is that the ignition kill is not supposed to be able to, well, kill the car. My concern is that whatever stopped the engine the last time won't just kill the car, but it could take me with it! Just to clarify, even when "dead", the electrical system still had power, but NONE of the central console switches operated, the radio was out, the rear bar was out, the top motors were out--pretty much the entire interior, as well as the engine, which wouldn't crank. When I inserted the key, there were a couple of lights on the lower dash that would flash 2-3 times when I turned the key to ON, but that was it. If it was just dead, I could work from there, but the intermittent nature is throwing me for a loop, so I'm hoping for a lead from somebody who knows more than I do. |
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#5
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Hi, The part about losing your alarm key fab I find interesting.It has alot to do with the DAS,ECM,Immobilizer systems which identify the ECM and lock it out. You can crank and crank away and the car will never start. Do a search on some of the DAS posts and see what you come up with.
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88 W124 3.0 96 R129 119eng 06 ML350 98 ML320 sold 02 CLK55 amg |
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#6
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Couple notes, I did find the fob, it didn't necessarily change anything, and last night, on a slightly weakened battery, a new symptom emerged. Got in the car after locking and unlocking a few cycles, put the key in the ignition, and all hell broke loose. LOUD rapid clicking sound from somewhere in the cabin, all of the lights flickered, and I don't remember the rear bar being up, but there it was, not sure if it popped up like in a rollover or if I left it there, but the noise came from slightly behind me, so I got the sense that the bar had popped up when I turned the key. The battery was too drained to start after that. Anybody have that particular experience and want to share? |
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#7
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You can not really do any diagnosis with a weak battery. Get the battery charger on it or a new battery. There are a lot of relays that are going to click away in the trunk and under the rear seat compartment when the battery is weak they will not make full contact and they will clatter.
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88 W124 3.0 96 R129 119eng 06 ML350 98 ML320 sold 02 CLK55 amg |
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