Pulling r107 rear subframe - Don’t want to forget anything

[fonzi]

The 500sl is on the diamond plate trailer to be mobile after pulling the rear end. The drive shaft is already off, and the interior is out. I’m ready for my next steps to as quickly as possible this evening drop the rear end, subframe, springs, differential and axles... as quickly as possible so this ugly trailer does not need to stay in my driveway long. A rear end should be quick, unlike a motor. I recently documented all the steps to pull a w108 4.5 motor. Now I want to document an anti-squat r107 rear end. An anti-squat SLC rear end will follow later.

So...
- disconnect drive shaft (done)
- remove interior to get to shocks (done)
- remove brake hoses
- disconnect emergency brake cables
- disconnect shocks
- disconnect differential support
- remove front subframe mounts
- remove rear sway bar connections

Maybe remove fuel pump

Anything else I’m forgetting besides the obvious (jack up rear end as high as possible, Jack diff, jack stands on rockers...)

Anyone want to bet on the time required?

I’m going to do it tonight, but have some family obligations and don’t want to annoy my neighbors too late.

Thanks!
Mike

[fonzi]

So I was going to delay until later tonight but ended up doing everything except getting the emergency brake cables disconnected (and removing the last few threads of the subframe mount bolts).

Of course I got under the car only after doing everything else to discover the tool to adjust the parking brake cables looks kind of like it’s got to be a square nut driver of some sort, like a 3/8” drive of a ratchet, as if I need to put a 3/8” socket on it backwards and drive it with some hex tool. I can’t believe I’ve never gotten into this on a 107 even after tearing multiples apart and owning them over 9 years now.

I just want to disconnect the emergency brake cables without cutting them. Cutting the brake mechanism is a last resort on this car.


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[fonzi]

I haven’t made it out to the car again tonight but am starting to think I’m too tired now. Maybe I will find a 12-point socket to fit it.


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[fonzi]

Originally Posted by fonzi

I haven’t made it out to the car again tonight but am starting to think I’m too tired now. Maybe I will find a 12-point socket to fit it.


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I think I ended up discovering that the front cable could be cut and the cable holders at the rear had bolts on the side that I hadn’t seen before, later cars having a different setup than the earliest ones. I’ve moved onto parting out this pile and will also be removing the c107 rear end.




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[Gunder]

i want to put a 2.47 rear differential in my 85 280sl in order to get a better highway speed without over reving my car ex 4,000 rpm 75 mph. if i find one do i also have to replace rear axles?

[fonzi]

Originally Posted by Gunder

i want to put a 2.47 rear differential in my 85 280sl in order to get a better highway speed without over reving my car ex 4,000 rpm 75 mph. if i find one do i also have to replace rear axles?

3.58 (or 3.69 for 1980 and earlier) —> 2.47 is going to kill the performance. Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? 4000 is just entering the power band, and is probably a good place to be with an m110 at 75 mph. Where would you want to be? I guess a 2.47 will bring 4000 down to 2760 rpm. Just getting there might take a long time I guess.

I would suggest something a little easier to find and less aggressive, like a 3.07 from a 450sl/c. I’m not sure if you will need a special flex disc to go from a 6 to 8 cylinder drive shaft. Maybe a diesel 3.46 from a w123 would be easy to find. I’m not sure.

I am not sure about the rear axles. If you take the whole rear end from the donor car including the subframe, maybe that could possibly be easiest. Then again, you can remove the diff and leave the axles in the control arms. I think the axles require a press or some good luck to remove them from the control arms. I’m not sure.


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