Sure is. :-)


This M112/M113 CPS costs $69.63 at Mercedesshop, part F6010-140094 BOSCH and is a POS?


94 S500 CPS costs $154.50 at Mercedesshop, part F6010-51836 BOSCH

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W163.154, M112.942, 722.662, ZF.970.402

hey everyone,

I've been a long time lurker but this will be my first post.

Here's my situation.... Every initial attempt to start the engine, the ML would crank continuously but eventually fail. On the second attempt, the engine starts right up.

After searching and reading thru various forums I sort of came to the conclusion or hoped that it would be something I can repair, like a CPS replacement.

I also don't have the typical "stalling problem" like everyone else.... if my truck is running it runs until I turn off the engine. The similar problem I do have like everyone else is the initial start up, where it continuously cranks until it stops. Though the second time around, the ML starts fine.

I also noticed the Bosch CPS number was slightly different from the original CPS from my 01ML320. I was also informed by the online vendor (mercedesshop) that it should still work....

new bosch part number 0 261 210 170
original bosch part number 0 261 210 171

Can anyone confirm this part number for me? Greatly appreciate your responses!

Danny

Numbers for the CPS on a 1999 ML 430

Current MB number (at least for my 1999 ML430) 003 153 2828 (supercedes 003 153 2728);
on-line stores show this as F6010-140094;
The Bosch USA website shows this as Bosch 0 261 210 170

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Jim

Thanks Jim for the info...

According to Bosch, the CPS part number 0 261 210 170
supercedes # 0 261 210 171 and it doesn't matter whether you have a 320 or 430.

Well I changed it.... and the problem is still there with the initial start. Now I'm wondering if I have a fuel pump problem or if by chance the CPS I just purchased is bad? Any suggestions?

Thanks again.

Danny

My 98 ML320 would not start at first crank when already warmed up after driving ~100 miles but started on the second try immediately after the first try. This happened two days ago and did not re-occur untl today. The engine started fine when cold but would not restart after a short 10 minute drive. After spending an hour walking to get a spare key from my wife (her key is only 2 months old), the vehicle started perfectly. I drove two hours non-stop. After turning off the engine I immediately tried the old key...it did not start the engine even though it cranked as usual. With the new key, the vehicle started just fine.

Perhaps the old key has gone "bad"? Perhaps it has nothing to do with the crankshaft position sensor?

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

A tip that makes this much easier is to put bearing grease or something similar in the torx socket, this will hold the screw.

Very informative CPS post.

However, no one ever gets into the specifics of the torque screw. I think i found what could be the cps at the back of the engine on my 99 clk 320. it's got a cable going to it, but i don't see the screw/bolt. is it correct that it's facing downwards and that you can only get to it with your hands but can't physically see it?

also, although many of the posts indicate that a 1/4" drive E8 socket is needed, i've also read that its easier to take it off using just an allen wrench so am not sure if there is a small slot in the bolt for such an insertion? can anyone please confirm?

lastly, when you actually do a search for this part at thebenzbin, fastlane, etc, you'll find two (e.g. http://mercedes.thebenzbin.com/?year...ld 22222.y=12) one with a double interlock at the flywheel for over $100 bucks, and one with a single interlock for approx $75 bucks. which is the correct part as they're both listed for a 99 clk 320. Many have mentioned that your local Autozone would have this part as well, they only have one listed (http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...ENONE%7C%7E V) and it's only $55 bucks for the part (albeit a non oem brand). Not sure which to go with.

thanks so much. this should answer a lot of the same questions i would think many others would have. e.g. aside from where it is, the direction its facing and what type it is (e.g. need socket or allen wrench), and the exact part (considering that there are typically 3 options).

cheers all. i hate that i know this is a sub $100 part (potentially $55 if you guys think the autozone part is ok), and that it takes only 15 minutes to replace, but even the local auto shop wants to charge me $220 to make the replacement. ridiculous!!! that god for all you diy'ers!!!

I can confirm for my ML430 a 1/4" E8 Torx is required and NOT an allen wrench.

You might want to take a look at the Bosch website http://www.boschautoparts.com/VehiclePartFinder and search for the Bosch part number and see if by entering it at at your favorite on-line part site, yields the same part when you search by description.

The "tip" of the CPS is pointed directly at the flywheel. It is VERY hard to see on the ML. I have to get as close to the firewall as possible and looking down, barely get a glimpse of it.

On some vehicles I've heard removing the wheel and fender liner, gives you good visibility to the part but not improved access. Good luck.

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Jim

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W163.154, M112.942, 722.662, ZF.970.402

Thank you both. ML320, do you know if that picture was above or below the car?

e.g. should the bolt be accessible from the top just like it looks in the image or is the picture upside down so that i'd have to put the socket underneath if climbing over the engine. Thanks.

Cool, complained about the CPS problem to NYHSA and someone actually got back to me,... do I hear service campaign alla harmonic balancer... if enough of us complain as well?

"Dear Sir/Madam,



Thank you for reporting to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) concerning engine stalling (due to crankshaft position sensor (CPS) failure) in your Mercedes vehicle.



The Office of Defects Investigation (ODI) of NHTSA has received a number of complaints on the subject issue. To assist us further in evaluating the issue, please scan and email the repair invoice for the CPS replacement. Also, if you have the old CPS and no longer need it, please let me know and I can email you the shipping information so you can send the CPS to us free-of-charge.



Was there any warning prior to the CPS failure?
How difficult was it for you to control the vehicle after the engine stalled?
Were you able to re-start the engine right-the-way? If not, how long did you have to wait before the engine was able to be restarted? If the engine restarted, did it stalled out again?
Please email the links of any internet forums you know of where the subject matter was discussed.


Thank you very much.



Steve Chan

Safety Defects Engineer

ODI/NHTSA

(202) 366-8537

Fax: (202) 366-7882"

The view looks like it is from above and to the right of the CPS (right being as facing the windshield from in front of the vehicle).

I SERIOUSLY doubt there is any chance of a safety campaign. I was a victim of the harmonic balancer and power steering clamp failure, BEFORE the recall notices. Trust me, I complained to the highest levels about the balancer with no satisfaction until the campaign. Post campaign they have subsequently squared things up with me.

(I suppose I view the CPS as a "worn set of points" on an old distributor cap. I'm sure it's not a totally accurate point of view.)

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Jim

Can someone please validate that this part circled in red is indeed the crankshaft position sensor? I brought this to my local mechanic and he couldn't find the thing and said that what I pointed to wasn't it (even though the boards indicate it is).

Attachment 34924

close up view


If this isn't the part, could someone please recommend a good mechanic in Queens, NY?

If the picture posted above in message #24 is not good enough for your mechanic to locate this part, then you definitely need another mechanic.

The pictures you posted do not look accurate to me (at least they are not representative of an ML430) but could be a view convenient for a camera but not a person.

Candidly, at first this is a difficult part to locate. You'll see it before you can actually touch it.

Lay on top of the engine, get your head as close to the firewall as you can and look at the most rear section of the engine that you can....near where you would expect it to meet up with the torque converter. You will see a single wire. It is NOT with a bunch of other "stuff" or other wires.

Good luck.

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Jim

Bill is going to need to edit the DIY.
You folks are coming up with some great data.

R&R of the Crankshaft Position Sensor
on the 2000 ML320 (M112 & M113)
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M112M113CPS